Moopai

Few weeks ago I posted the following problem:
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I know the transmission subject has been overly discussed on this forum and I read many posts but something weird happened with me today that I want to run by you and see what you think! I'm at a traffic light, light turns green I step moderately on the gas paddle, I can feel the transmission is shifting smoothly from 1st, 2nd and third and possibly fourth and then I get kind of a kick feeling not sure what it is for a split second. It's like something holds the car for a split second and then release it. I'm driving in "D" mode and doing around 50-60 Km/h by the time it happens. No issues in down shifting or anything else. It happened about four times on my way home today. The dealer updated my software to the latest version couple of months ago before my CPO expired, they were doing some work on the car and had to upgrade me to the latest. Could this software upgrade be the cause? If it is why it's showing up now after almost 2 months? I just got home and did a factory reset to the transimssion hoping it would resolve whatever this thing is but have not taken the car to a test drive.

Any ideas what the cause might be?
Is this Murphy's law that my CPO expired and I'm going to have a major transmission problem?
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Today I went to the dealer for a test drive and shop foreman confirmed the problem is the boost converter and he recommended for the transmission to be rebuild in the same time as repairing the boost converter. The jerky feeling at speeds of 50 km - 60 km is happening because the car is trying to go to overdrive. I got quoted by the dealer for the rebuild ~$4000 + taxes. The BMW shop that I typically use quoted me $3500 + taxes to get the job done not much different from the dealer. I've read several comments on the forum from people that had a slipping problem with their transmission and when they changed the fluid + filter the problem went away. I asked the dealer and the two independent shops about changing the transmission fluid and all three came back saying that I will waste my money doing that. This problem starts to happen only after driving for a while, meaning when the car gets hot. I did the 25 second reset more than once, it works for few days then the problem comes back, the foreman at the dealer tells it works because the computer is trying to adapt to the new change and when it cannot I goes back to to the same issue.

Your recommendation please! What should I do? The last thing I wanted now is to spend $4k on transmission repairs. Any ideas is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Shezmon

i'd def chang the fluid first.. Its not that much to do so... also you could go to some shop and have them drain a lil transmission fluid out to see if it smells burned or looks dirty. If not, then maybe it is internal failure and not the fluid. I wonder how many miles you have on your car?.. neway.. good luck...and must put back original fluid from BMW.

Moopai

I have 112k/km

luigi524td

If your CPO expired just a couple of months ago, your miles driven within "average" range, and your maintenance records are up to date I'd ask BMWNA to make a significant financial contribution to install a BMW re-manufactured transmission.

Except for clear cases of neglect and abuse I continue to find it unconscionable that BMW automatic transmissions cannot be expected to survive normal driving for 200K+ miles.

Most honest EXPERT mechanics will lay the fault DIRECTLY at BMW's "lifetime" ATF ... and other fluids.

Moopai

My warranty expired April 28th, I treat this car like a baby no abuse of what so ever. I cannot see BMW doing anything about this! I bet if I call them I will get some bullsh**t excuse on why they cannot do anything about it. The car has 112K kilometers I cannot believe that I have to re-build the transmission at this stage.

Moopai

I spoke to BMW Canada this morning, what a joke!!! The lady I spoke to said it doesn't matter that the mileage is still low and only three months after the expiry. If the expiry of the warranty was two days later after the date there is nothing BMW can do, I'm on my own.

Does anyone know a good transmission place in Toronto that rebuilds BMW transmissions? The shop I deal with don't do rebuilds and I'm sure when they quoted me they added there margin into the price. If I can deal with the rebuild shop directly, I'll probably save some money!!!

Wpg550

Don't give up just yet. A quick search for "goodwill" will turn up a SIB that explains the lattitude dealers have to initiate requests for partial coverage of out of warranty repairs. Although the SIB is US-based, a similar policy exists in Canada - as I received support under this policy several years ago for a shorted-out seat heater/burnt seat on my E39 which had just come off of CPO warranty.

I'm fairly sure that the dealer has to initiate the request with BMW Canada, so you need to establish the appropriate relationship with the dealership. If you've just spoken to the SA to date, schedule an appointment with the Service Manager or the dealership GM and calmly discuss the situation. Your car looks like you've taken great care of it, so you may get some traction with this approach. Keep in mind though, this is at the dealer's discretion, so you should "help" them understand why it makes business sense to help you... ie. you'll one day be buying a replacement from them, your participation in owner groups/forums, etc.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

or_550i

First, the TCM has an engine intervention protocol where during shifting the it instructs the engine to retard the timing a little (a few milliseconds) to reduce torque to shift. It might be that this is causing your 'kick' since the engine is loosing a little torque right as it shifts.
Second, there is no such thing as a 'boost converter' in the transmission. The GA6HP26Z (automatic) transmission, which is what I think you have, has four major components: Torque converter, clutch pack, planetary gear assembly, and the Mechatronics unit (the TCM and the hydraulic valve body).
Third, there is nothing wrong with opening the ATF plug to check the fluid level and color. While someone is down there they can check for any leaks. The fluid is expected to be changed at 160,000 km.

The dealer should be able to attach their Scan Tool and open the "Service Function (drive)" to check the transmission.

Moopai

Thanks guys I will try the below recommendation and meet with the dealer tomorrow. As to the boost converter, it is my mistake I meant the Torque converter. Do you guys think if I change the tranny fluid it might fix the problem? Again if I'm going to do that I will only change the fluid as the filter on this car is part of the oil pan which cost ~$500. The car shifts nicely and no issues accept when I hit the 50 km to 60km mark when I get this little jerking or kick feeling. What's even more interesting is when the car is still cold meaning the first half to an hour of driving I don't feel anything at all, it only happens when I've driven the car for a while. After heating up.

WPG550, what do you mean a quick search for "goodwill"? Search at the dealer for someone that is whiling to help!

JStraw

I have the same problem you are experiencing. In doing some (re)search, I found this (see the bolded text).

I am out of warranty as well, and I can't reproduce the judder on a regular basis to show the SA. I did try changing the transmission fluid, but the problem did not go away.

I am not sure you need a transimission re-build.



SI B 24 03 09
Automatic Transmission April 2009
Technical Service

SUBJECT
550i and 650i with N62TU and 6HP26 - Various Drivability Complaints


MODEL
E60, 550iA produced from 09/05 up to 02/07

E63, E64; 650i produced from 09/05 up to 09/07


SITUATION
The customer may complain about one or a combination of the following situations, listed below:

Intermittent harsh 4-3, 3-2 or 2-1 downshift (jolt) when coming to a stop with light brake application.

Jolts and/or jerks felt when reaccelerating after coasting.

Judder when gently accelerating (most noticeable at an engine speed below 2,000 RPM).
CAUSE
DME and EGS software calibration

SOLUTION
Program the vehicle with ISTA/P 2.33.0 or later, using the path "Conversion" and "Downshift behavior". After this modification, the k-word "HADS" will be added to the Vehicle Order.

Note that ISTA/P will automatically reprogram and code all programmable control modules that do not have the latest software.

For information on programming and coding with ISTA/P, refer to CenterNet / Aftersales Portal / Service / Workshop Technology / Vehicle Programming".

WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty or the Certified Pre-Owned Program.

Defect Code:
24 00 33 98 00