Electrical Demons or Legitimate Problem?
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I responded last week in another thread discussing what seems to be an undiagnosed demon in a handful of 545i cars.
https://5series.net/forums/topic/104...haft+%2Bsensor
I purchased a 2004 545i 6spd manual in April09 with 70k miles. The car currently has 100k miles. At random times over the past 1 1/2 years the car has refused to start - no crank, no feedback, just the sound of the fuel pump. With no explanation the car will start after continuous attempts. The problem then goes away for months at a time.
A few times the car has lit up the dash and then stalled. Sometimes it will restart, sometimes it takes 20 minutes of trying. Last month it happened to me twice in the same day, once on a major highway in traffic, and I began using the car only to run errands around the neighborhood. I had run without issue for over a month so I began using it to commute again this week and had no issues until today.
When leaving work the car started fine and then the increased emissions light came on and the car was sputtering to stay running. I was still in the parking garage so I turned it off and drifted into a spot. I had my code reader with me, so I pulled the codes and reset them. It took 10 minutes of me turning the key before the car started. All of the attempts resulted in no crank and no feedback. Once the car started I drove 50 minutes home and the car ran perfectly and the check engine light did not turn back on.
The codes were:
P0024 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0261 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low
P0264 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0267 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0270 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0598 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Low
P2088 'A' Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P2090 'B' Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
Due to the extremely inconsistent nature of the problem, I am reluctant to take it to a shop I do not trust. It would be too easy to start replacing the obvious choices - battery, alternator, cam sensor, crank sensor - and still not have the real problem addressed.
Has anyone successfully concurred this demon or know and trust a shop in northern VA they can recommend?
-Ray
https://5series.net/forums/topic/104...haft+%2Bsensor
I purchased a 2004 545i 6spd manual in April09 with 70k miles. The car currently has 100k miles. At random times over the past 1 1/2 years the car has refused to start - no crank, no feedback, just the sound of the fuel pump. With no explanation the car will start after continuous attempts. The problem then goes away for months at a time.
A few times the car has lit up the dash and then stalled. Sometimes it will restart, sometimes it takes 20 minutes of trying. Last month it happened to me twice in the same day, once on a major highway in traffic, and I began using the car only to run errands around the neighborhood. I had run without issue for over a month so I began using it to commute again this week and had no issues until today.
When leaving work the car started fine and then the increased emissions light came on and the car was sputtering to stay running. I was still in the parking garage so I turned it off and drifted into a spot. I had my code reader with me, so I pulled the codes and reset them. It took 10 minutes of me turning the key before the car started. All of the attempts resulted in no crank and no feedback. Once the car started I drove 50 minutes home and the car ran perfectly and the check engine light did not turn back on.
The codes were:
P0024 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0261 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low
P0264 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0267 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0270 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0598 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Low
P2088 'A' Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P2090 'B' Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
Due to the extremely inconsistent nature of the problem, I am reluctant to take it to a shop I do not trust. It would be too easy to start replacing the obvious choices - battery, alternator, cam sensor, crank sensor - and still not have the real problem addressed.
Has anyone successfully concurred this demon or know and trust a shop in northern VA they can recommend?
-Ray
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My Ride: 2006 BMW 550i
check out this thread, particulalry the 4th post:
https://5series.net/forums/topic/104...em-with-my-car
oil was leaking from valve cover and dripping on alternator and causing shorts.
https://5series.net/forums/topic/104...em-with-my-car
oil was leaking from valve cover and dripping on alternator and causing shorts.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2009
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I haven't noticed an oil leak, but I will look closer to rule it out.
Wouldn't an alternator issue be constant and cause a drain on the battery? I have never had to jump the car even after it dies out. When it stalls I do not lose power on any of the car, it only dies when I come to a stop because it is running rough and won't hold an idle. I originally thought it was the battery or alternator, but I've been having this issue for over a year and I sometimes go months without any symptoms. The car ran perfectly again today.
Wouldn't an alternator issue be constant and cause a drain on the battery? I have never had to jump the car even after it dies out. When it stalls I do not lose power on any of the car, it only dies when I come to a stop because it is running rough and won't hold an idle. I originally thought it was the battery or alternator, but I've been having this issue for over a year and I sometimes go months without any symptoms. The car ran perfectly again today.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Washington DC
My Ride: 545i, Adaptive Xenons, 19" 166's
If it helps I had a weak battery last week, and I got a transmission fault error when I started the car. No issues after replacing my battery. Just curious, how old is your battery? Also have you checked the voltage before cranking and while the car is running?
Keep in mind my errors were on the IDRIVE screen and not on the OBD2, so I would agree it sounds like a sensor issue.
GL
Keep in mind my errors were on the IDRIVE screen and not on the OBD2, so I would agree it sounds like a sensor issue.
GL
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 295
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From: High Desert, So. CA USA
lincvert, I really hope you can find out what is causing all the problems to your car. Having the car stalled and not knowing if it is going to start or not--day to day is just no fun.
A weak/dying battery will give you many dashboard errors. The classic one being the "ABS" airbag sensor "driver or passenger restraint"--it will give a code fault of low voltage or something along that line. It will stay on and usually have to be reset by the dealer. I am not familiar with all those error faults that you posted but seems like it is pointing to some sort of power issue. In the trunk, the battery cable--I believe it is on the negative cable has a sensor. I'm not sure what kind of problem it may cause if it ever goes bad. How old is your battery? It does not seem to be a battery or alternator issue. An alternator will cause the battery to drain lose power, need jump-starting, and eventually dies. When you had trouble trying to get the car started, did the interior light up normally, dimmed, or nothing at all?
I really don't think it is a problem in your case like mines, but to exhaust any possibility. You can check to see if you find any corrosion/dirt under the hood in my other thread. For safety issue, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery in the trunk. In the hood, you can unscrew the nut of the positive jump start cable and take a look. Maybe there is a loose or dirty corrode power or negative cable connection somewhere?
Do keep us posted and hang in there!
A weak/dying battery will give you many dashboard errors. The classic one being the "ABS" airbag sensor "driver or passenger restraint"--it will give a code fault of low voltage or something along that line. It will stay on and usually have to be reset by the dealer. I am not familiar with all those error faults that you posted but seems like it is pointing to some sort of power issue. In the trunk, the battery cable--I believe it is on the negative cable has a sensor. I'm not sure what kind of problem it may cause if it ever goes bad. How old is your battery? It does not seem to be a battery or alternator issue. An alternator will cause the battery to drain lose power, need jump-starting, and eventually dies. When you had trouble trying to get the car started, did the interior light up normally, dimmed, or nothing at all?
I really don't think it is a problem in your case like mines, but to exhaust any possibility. You can check to see if you find any corrosion/dirt under the hood in my other thread. For safety issue, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery in the trunk. In the hood, you can unscrew the nut of the positive jump start cable and take a look. Maybe there is a loose or dirty corrode power or negative cable connection somewhere?
Do keep us posted and hang in there!
