E60 545i Normal Voltage ?
11-23-2013, 03:37 PM
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My Ride: '04 545i Sport 6 speed
E60 545i Normal Voltage ?
What's a normal voltage on a 545i with full options (sport pkg, navi etc)?
Mine is around 14.60v and fluctuates between 14.50-14.75 sometimes drops to 14.10 for like half a second. Is that normal ? Ive heard others having under 14v constant..
The Dynamic drive light comes on often (I topped off the powersteering fluid), and I'm wondering whether the voltage regulator might've gone bad.
Mine is around 14.60v and fluctuates between 14.50-14.75 sometimes drops to 14.10 for like half a second. Is that normal ? Ive heard others having under 14v constant..
The Dynamic drive light comes on often (I topped off the powersteering fluid), and I'm wondering whether the voltage regulator might've gone bad.
11-23-2013, 03:48 PM
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My Ride: 07 550i Sports Package
Model Year: 2007
I'm having the same issue and I am about to change the alternator. If the DSC cuts out then that means you are getting spikes over 16v. If you read it with DIS you will see the fault. When that happens it is a sign of your voltage regulator going bad. It is on the back of the alternator so changing the entire alternator seems like a better option. You can do a search here several members have had the same problem.
11-23-2013, 03:54 PM
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I'm having the same issue and I am about to change the alternator. If the DSC cuts out then that means you are getting spikes over 16v. If you read it with DIS you will see the fault. When that happens it is a sign of your voltage regulator going bad. It is on the back of the alternator so changing the entire alternator seems like a better option. You can do a search here several members have had the same problem.
11-23-2013, 04:13 PM
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My Ride: 07 550i Sports Package
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You have to remove the alternator to get to the Voltage regulator. If you look at a pic of the alternator the black part on the back is the regulator. If you have a substantial mileage then do the entire alternator. It is not an easy job to get to the alternator. I have a 550, pretty much the same as your 545, I attempted the alternator change today but I didn't get anywhere.
11-24-2013, 09:30 AM
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Your voltage is within the normal range but you need to monitor it closely. Dynamic Drive fault lights are a common byproduct of system voltage fluctuations but that certainly is not the only cause of Dynamic Drive faults.
A failing voltage regulator can be very intermittent. I invested in a plug-in voltmeter so I could monitor it myself just before starting (healthy fully charged battery should be 12.5-12.6V), during alternator output ramp up (first 20 seconds of operation system voltage moves from 12.5 up to 14.2V+ ) and during driving (generally settles in from 14.2V to 14.6V depending upon conditions and load). My alternator was putting out 17V at times during ramp up before I changed it! Needless to say, just about every fault light on the dash illuminated. But the voltage was not swinging wildly all of the time. It took keeping an eye on it constantly to see the variations, especially during driving.
Equus Innova 3721 Battery Charging System Monitor - Walmart.com
If you still have the original battery or a similar replacement it will be a FLA type (white top) . The OE in newer cars and dealer replacements in older cars are AGM (black top).
The AGM should not be charged with a system voltage over 14.8V, so if you have an AGM battery and your alternator output exceeds 14.8V you need to change the alternator soon before you damage the battery.
The IBS monitors the system voltage, battery charge condition and negative terminal temperature and will communicate with the DME which in turn can direct the alternator to increase or decrease its voltage output as well as vary the engine idle if the car is in park. After starting and completion of alternator ramp up, normal voltage output can vary from 14.0V to 15.5V (if the DME is coded for FLA) and 14.0V to 14.7V (if the DME is coded for AGM). Changes in load (components turned on and off) can cause temporary sags or peaks in system voltage.
I agree with the other poster that if you have a 545i, replacement of the entire alternator is probably called for. I purchased a new OE Valeo unit for $283 last year. Current prices are more in the $320 range, but I felt it was worth getting new everything (windings, brushes, bearings, regulator) to avoid problems in the future. Some rebuilt alternators are actually completely overhauled and tested from the ground up and are a good value. Others have just the brushes and regulator repaired or replaced and can be problems. Rebuilt units are really hit and miss, and while they all come with a great warranty that warranty doesn't cover labor, so you will still have to do the work twice or pay to have it done twice unless the mechanic purchases the rebuilt unit and warranties the work. Generally a mechanic's labor warranty is not as long as the rebuilt unit's warranty.
DIY replacement is a PITA, but definitely doable. Just a lot of crap to remove from the engine to be able to get at it.
Have you done PM on your coolant system?
My water pump, thermostat and belts were all original when my altermator failed (83K miles) so I took advantage of the fact that everything you need to remove from the car to replace the alternator is identical to replacing the water pump, save for the harmonic balancer. If you haven't done PM on the cooling system there will never be a better time (or if you are paying to have it done never a cheaper time). The BMW all aluminum engines are very unforgiving to overheating and experience has shown over and over again that the cooling system is good for about 75K miles before failures begin to occur. For complete peace of mind do the water pump, thermostat, coolant reservoir tank, hoses and vent tube. The serpentine belt has to come off anyway so that is a no-brainer for replacement. Keep the old serpentine belt in your trunk as a backup.
A failing voltage regulator can be very intermittent. I invested in a plug-in voltmeter so I could monitor it myself just before starting (healthy fully charged battery should be 12.5-12.6V), during alternator output ramp up (first 20 seconds of operation system voltage moves from 12.5 up to 14.2V+ ) and during driving (generally settles in from 14.2V to 14.6V depending upon conditions and load). My alternator was putting out 17V at times during ramp up before I changed it! Needless to say, just about every fault light on the dash illuminated. But the voltage was not swinging wildly all of the time. It took keeping an eye on it constantly to see the variations, especially during driving.
Equus Innova 3721 Battery Charging System Monitor - Walmart.com
If you still have the original battery or a similar replacement it will be a FLA type (white top) . The OE in newer cars and dealer replacements in older cars are AGM (black top).
The AGM should not be charged with a system voltage over 14.8V, so if you have an AGM battery and your alternator output exceeds 14.8V you need to change the alternator soon before you damage the battery.
The IBS monitors the system voltage, battery charge condition and negative terminal temperature and will communicate with the DME which in turn can direct the alternator to increase or decrease its voltage output as well as vary the engine idle if the car is in park. After starting and completion of alternator ramp up, normal voltage output can vary from 14.0V to 15.5V (if the DME is coded for FLA) and 14.0V to 14.7V (if the DME is coded for AGM). Changes in load (components turned on and off) can cause temporary sags or peaks in system voltage.
I agree with the other poster that if you have a 545i, replacement of the entire alternator is probably called for. I purchased a new OE Valeo unit for $283 last year. Current prices are more in the $320 range, but I felt it was worth getting new everything (windings, brushes, bearings, regulator) to avoid problems in the future. Some rebuilt alternators are actually completely overhauled and tested from the ground up and are a good value. Others have just the brushes and regulator repaired or replaced and can be problems. Rebuilt units are really hit and miss, and while they all come with a great warranty that warranty doesn't cover labor, so you will still have to do the work twice or pay to have it done twice unless the mechanic purchases the rebuilt unit and warranties the work. Generally a mechanic's labor warranty is not as long as the rebuilt unit's warranty.
DIY replacement is a PITA, but definitely doable. Just a lot of crap to remove from the engine to be able to get at it.
Have you done PM on your coolant system?
My water pump, thermostat and belts were all original when my altermator failed (83K miles) so I took advantage of the fact that everything you need to remove from the car to replace the alternator is identical to replacing the water pump, save for the harmonic balancer. If you haven't done PM on the cooling system there will never be a better time (or if you are paying to have it done never a cheaper time). The BMW all aluminum engines are very unforgiving to overheating and experience has shown over and over again that the cooling system is good for about 75K miles before failures begin to occur. For complete peace of mind do the water pump, thermostat, coolant reservoir tank, hoses and vent tube. The serpentine belt has to come off anyway so that is a no-brainer for replacement. Keep the old serpentine belt in your trunk as a backup.
11-24-2013, 04:42 PM
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It's doable, I've done it in a parking lot in about an hour. It's mainly just getting crap out of the way. Only two bolts holding the alternator on if I remember correctly. Hardest part is getting it pulled out far enough to get the wires disconnected
Basically remove all the radiator shrouds, remove accessory belt, remove alternator bolts, pull out, remove wires and it's out
I would guess the mistake most people make is not getting enough of the radiator plasticy crap out of the way to have enough room to work. It takes some prying to get it to come out / go in also.. but is doable
Basically remove all the radiator shrouds, remove accessory belt, remove alternator bolts, pull out, remove wires and it's out
I would guess the mistake most people make is not getting enough of the radiator plasticy crap out of the way to have enough room to work. It takes some prying to get it to come out / go in also.. but is doable
11-27-2013, 07:40 AM
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My Ride: '04 545i Sport 6 speed
Your voltage is within the normal range but you need to monitor it closely. Dynamic Drive fault lights are a common byproduct of system voltage fluctuations but that certainly is not the only cause of Dynamic Drive faults.
A failing voltage regulator can be very intermittent. I invested in a plug-in voltmeter so I could monitor it myself just before starting (healthy fully charged battery should be 12.5-12.6V), during alternator output ramp up (first 20 seconds of operation system voltage moves from 12.5 up to 14.2V+ ) and during driving (generally settles in from 14.2V to 14.6V depending upon conditions and load). My alternator was putting out 17V at times during ramp up before I changed it! Needless to say, just about every fault light on the dash illuminated. But the voltage was not swinging wildly all of the time. It took keeping an eye on it constantly to see the variations, especially during driving.
Equus Innova 3721 Battery Charging System Monitor - Walmart.com
If you still have the original battery or a similar replacement it will be a FLA type (white top) . The OE in newer cars and dealer replacements in older cars are AGM (black top).
The AGM should not be charged with a system voltage over 14.8V, so if you have an AGM battery and your alternator output exceeds 14.8V you need to change the alternator soon before you damage the battery.
The IBS monitors the system voltage, battery charge condition and negative terminal temperature and will communicate with the DME which in turn can direct the alternator to increase or decrease its voltage output as well as vary the engine idle if the car is in park. After starting and completion of alternator ramp up, normal voltage output can vary from 14.0V to 15.5V (if the DME is coded for FLA) and 14.0V to 14.7V (if the DME is coded for AGM). Changes in load (components turned on and off) can cause temporary sags or peaks in system voltage.
I agree with the other poster that if you have a 545i, replacement of the entire alternator is probably called for. I purchased a new OE Valeo unit for $283 last year. Current prices are more in the $320 range, but I felt it was worth getting new everything (windings, brushes, bearings, regulator) to avoid problems in the future. Some rebuilt alternators are actually completely overhauled and tested from the ground up and are a good value. Others have just the brushes and regulator repaired or replaced and can be problems. Rebuilt units are really hit and miss, and while they all come with a great warranty that warranty doesn't cover labor, so you will still have to do the work twice or pay to have it done twice unless the mechanic purchases the rebuilt unit and warranties the work. Generally a mechanic's labor warranty is not as long as the rebuilt unit's warranty.
DIY replacement is a PITA, but definitely doable. Just a lot of crap to remove from the engine to be able to get at it.
Have you done PM on your coolant system?
My water pump, thermostat and belts were all original when my altermator failed (83K miles) so I took advantage of the fact that everything you need to remove from the car to replace the alternator is identical to replacing the water pump, save for the harmonic balancer. If you haven't done PM on the cooling system there will never be a better time (or if you are paying to have it done never a cheaper time). The BMW all aluminum engines are very unforgiving to overheating and experience has shown over and over again that the cooling system is good for about 75K miles before failures begin to occur. For complete peace of mind do the water pump, thermostat, coolant reservoir tank, hoses and vent tube. The serpentine belt has to come off anyway so that is a no-brainer for replacement. Keep the old serpentine belt in your trunk as a backup.
A failing voltage regulator can be very intermittent. I invested in a plug-in voltmeter so I could monitor it myself just before starting (healthy fully charged battery should be 12.5-12.6V), during alternator output ramp up (first 20 seconds of operation system voltage moves from 12.5 up to 14.2V+ ) and during driving (generally settles in from 14.2V to 14.6V depending upon conditions and load). My alternator was putting out 17V at times during ramp up before I changed it! Needless to say, just about every fault light on the dash illuminated. But the voltage was not swinging wildly all of the time. It took keeping an eye on it constantly to see the variations, especially during driving.
Equus Innova 3721 Battery Charging System Monitor - Walmart.com
If you still have the original battery or a similar replacement it will be a FLA type (white top) . The OE in newer cars and dealer replacements in older cars are AGM (black top).
The AGM should not be charged with a system voltage over 14.8V, so if you have an AGM battery and your alternator output exceeds 14.8V you need to change the alternator soon before you damage the battery.
The IBS monitors the system voltage, battery charge condition and negative terminal temperature and will communicate with the DME which in turn can direct the alternator to increase or decrease its voltage output as well as vary the engine idle if the car is in park. After starting and completion of alternator ramp up, normal voltage output can vary from 14.0V to 15.5V (if the DME is coded for FLA) and 14.0V to 14.7V (if the DME is coded for AGM). Changes in load (components turned on and off) can cause temporary sags or peaks in system voltage.
I agree with the other poster that if you have a 545i, replacement of the entire alternator is probably called for. I purchased a new OE Valeo unit for $283 last year. Current prices are more in the $320 range, but I felt it was worth getting new everything (windings, brushes, bearings, regulator) to avoid problems in the future. Some rebuilt alternators are actually completely overhauled and tested from the ground up and are a good value. Others have just the brushes and regulator repaired or replaced and can be problems. Rebuilt units are really hit and miss, and while they all come with a great warranty that warranty doesn't cover labor, so you will still have to do the work twice or pay to have it done twice unless the mechanic purchases the rebuilt unit and warranties the work. Generally a mechanic's labor warranty is not as long as the rebuilt unit's warranty.
DIY replacement is a PITA, but definitely doable. Just a lot of crap to remove from the engine to be able to get at it.
Have you done PM on your coolant system?
My water pump, thermostat and belts were all original when my altermator failed (83K miles) so I took advantage of the fact that everything you need to remove from the car to replace the alternator is identical to replacing the water pump, save for the harmonic balancer. If you haven't done PM on the cooling system there will never be a better time (or if you are paying to have it done never a cheaper time). The BMW all aluminum engines are very unforgiving to overheating and experience has shown over and over again that the cooling system is good for about 75K miles before failures begin to occur. For complete peace of mind do the water pump, thermostat, coolant reservoir tank, hoses and vent tube. The serpentine belt has to come off anyway so that is a no-brainer for replacement. Keep the old serpentine belt in your trunk as a backup.
I already did the water pump + thermostat at 120k mi, now I have 145k mi.
My radio cuts off sometimes so I think its related to the power. Just morning I was driving on a straight road and the Dynamic drive light came on. the engine RPMS were constant at the that time and I wasnt changing gears or anything.
What are the signs of a bad voltage regulator ? just voltage spikes and fluctuations ?
11-27-2013, 09:29 AM
#8
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Thank you for detail info in this. I have the white battery, I dont think it's original battery, previous owner replaced it I believe which was at least 3 years ago. The voltage monitor sounds like a great idea, I will get it and start monitoring.
I already did the water pump + thermostat at 120k mi, now I have 145k mi.
My radio cuts off sometimes so I think its related to the power. Just morning I was driving on a straight road and the Dynamic drive light came on. the engine RPMS were constant at the that time and I wasnt changing gears or anything.
What are the signs of a bad voltage regulator ? just voltage spikes and fluctuations ?
I already did the water pump + thermostat at 120k mi, now I have 145k mi.
My radio cuts off sometimes so I think its related to the power. Just morning I was driving on a straight road and the Dynamic drive light came on. the engine RPMS were constant at the that time and I wasnt changing gears or anything.
What are the signs of a bad voltage regulator ? just voltage spikes and fluctuations ?
I don't know if it has been mentioned already but make sure you check your hydraulic fluid level to remove that from the list of possible causes for Dynamic drive fault light.
Another thing to check (although unlikely) is proper tension on your serpentine belt to insure it is not slipping on the alternator pulley. Normally it would squeal if this were the case, unless there is an unwanted lubricant on the belt.
If the battery is coded properly as an FLA in the computer, then the normal range is mostly 14.0V to 15.0V. For an FLA, alternator voltage as high as 15.5V can still be considered normal, but it is rare and generally limited to older batteries (age is coded in computer), a low state of charge, a net negative current flow into the battery and a low negative terminal temperature (the current can be higher and not risk degassing the battery).
When the system voltage with the engine running is below 14.0V or if it goes higher than 15.7V, then you can be relatively sure the voltage regulator is going bad.
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