e60 545i misfire
#11
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Whoops, I forgot that paragraph of the story. I replaced both bank breather hoses also. I replaced the driver side first and I thought I had it fixed, car was idling fine and seemed smooth, then it start surging but with a high idle (would go from a 1Krpm all the way up to 3Krpm by itself, just back and forth). So I replaced the passenger side hose, then it was back to the same problem as before with sum check error and random misfire codes.
I will try the noid tester and VVT module, and then maybe go back to square one with another smoke test...
I will try the noid tester and VVT module, and then maybe go back to square one with another smoke test...
#12
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Got a noid tester coming today.
Picked up a VVT module at a yard this morning.
I am using Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic. I remember reading your post about the oil weight (I feel like I have read all things E60 misfire). What gets me is it just randomly started doing it.
It is hard to feel the misfires when I give the car throttle. Really just seems to miss/cough/sputter at idle.
Will update...
Picked up a VVT module at a yard this morning.
I am using Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic. I remember reading your post about the oil weight (I feel like I have read all things E60 misfire). What gets me is it just randomly started doing it.
It is hard to feel the misfires when I give the car throttle. Really just seems to miss/cough/sputter at idle.
Will update...
(mind you ....shaking my head now...I didn’t do the oil change till I had tried everything else....) and now kicking myself.
SOOOO, was looking at this again this morning and remembered something else that may or may not be related before I got my misfires fixed, was doing some brain picking of a mechanic buddy of mine(not a bmw mechanic mind you), and he suggested as a WAG to replace the coolant sensor as he recalled a case where that confused the DME enough to cause mysterious misfires. Now since I did a coolant system refresh around the same time frame who knows maybe that was my fix!
Last edited by cmyachtie; 04-05-2021 at 01:46 AM. Reason: Remembering something else.....
#13
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Still chasing the misfire. Been swamped at work and life (how do you guys with a kid/kids ever get anything done?)
I redid the smoke test, and saw a slight leak from the passenger CCV on top of the valve cover, bought two new ones and replaced both sides. Same symptoms.
Put the noid light on two of the four cylinders on each bank (the easy ones to get to) and have good signal to those four injectors. I didn't do the other 4.
Swapped out the valvetronic module for a used one, same symptoms, no change. Put the original one back in.
At one point in this process, I don't remember it being in the initial stage, I got the code for the computer fan not working. I replaced the computer fan and am no longer getting that error. I wonder if the comp overheated and is causing some error.
At this point I am thinking to send off the comp (DME) to be checked for errors, overheat, damage. Dragging it to a local shop (any recommendations for Austin area?) or start isolating my leak test, straight to each valve cover, dipstick, into where the CCV hoses go and so on...
I redid the smoke test, and saw a slight leak from the passenger CCV on top of the valve cover, bought two new ones and replaced both sides. Same symptoms.
Put the noid light on two of the four cylinders on each bank (the easy ones to get to) and have good signal to those four injectors. I didn't do the other 4.
Swapped out the valvetronic module for a used one, same symptoms, no change. Put the original one back in.
At one point in this process, I don't remember it being in the initial stage, I got the code for the computer fan not working. I replaced the computer fan and am no longer getting that error. I wonder if the comp overheated and is causing some error.
At this point I am thinking to send off the comp (DME) to be checked for errors, overheat, damage. Dragging it to a local shop (any recommendations for Austin area?) or start isolating my leak test, straight to each valve cover, dipstick, into where the CCV hoses go and so on...
#14
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Thread Starter
Started to isolate smoke test, and found the leak.
Leaking (pretty bad) out of the front crankshaft seal.
Local shop wanted $550 for the repair "assuming that is all it needs."
Bought seal and some additional parts while I am in there and some tools needed for the replacement.
Couldn't find many details on this repair, but went through it in the Bentley Manual.
Will update when repaired.
Leaking (pretty bad) out of the front crankshaft seal.
Local shop wanted $550 for the repair "assuming that is all it needs."
Bought seal and some additional parts while I am in there and some tools needed for the replacement.
Couldn't find many details on this repair, but went through it in the Bentley Manual.
Will update when repaired.
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FormerE30Owner (07-12-2021)
#16
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My specific problem was the front crankshaft seal.
If you have not done a smoke test you need to do a smoke test. Make sure to do it long enough for a leak to be manifest.
If you have not done a smoke test you need to do a smoke test. Make sure to do it long enough for a leak to be manifest.
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BurtonSnol3order
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02-05-2019 10:58 AM