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E60 530xi cranks but won't start

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Old 09-11-2022, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by seanjordan20
It will scan all the modules upon connecting to your car and give you a list of every error your it has. You can take a pic of the list and attach here for review if you get lost
These are some of the codes that the INPA diagnosis pulled. Most of them look like battery undervoltage or related to that. Nothing I thought could directly impact the starting procedure, I could be wrong. Thoughts?




Old 09-11-2022, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by twh
If you didn't have to disconnect a lot to get he intake out of the way, you probably broke on or more of the hard plastic emissions/vacuum hoses. Some of those, if not connected, will cause the car to stall after starting. Getting the intake fully off is a minor PITA, but it just makes it so much easier to get done what needs to be done. It's also possible you messed up the crankshaft position sensor or wire. If you removed the sensor, possibly it isn't properly reseated. Maybe the + cable connection the starter is loose. Maybe the + jumper terminal is loose. Maybe the ground strap is done. Definitely go over everything again.
I am positive I replaced all the broken hoses I saw that were connected to the intake, but I can recheck. For the crankshaft position sensor, initially it was unplugged where I got the transmission fault error, I reconnected that and the fault went away, I think that may not be the culprit. With the ground/ or hot wires to the starter or car are still connected when I looked, to my understanding they would create a no crank no start situation if they were at fault. I am getting a long crank, it just won't turn over. Any other ideas or areas to look for? I appreciate the input!
Old 09-11-2022, 10:28 AM
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What does this mean exactly? "I am getting a long crank, it just won't turn over"
Old 09-11-2022, 10:36 AM
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It seems like a plug is not all the way in. Usually people don't plug the all the plugs back in all the way. I would go through and check it again. If it worked before you installed the starter it should work now. I don't see anything on the list that would keep it from starting. You didn't your CAS on accident did you?
Old 09-11-2022, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by twh
What does this mean exactly? "I am getting a long crank, it just won't turn over"
Basically, when I push the start button, I can hear the starter run. And it is trying to start the car but the car won't fire..
Old 09-11-2022, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by seanjordan20
It seems like a plug is not all the way in. Usually people don't plug the all the plugs back in all the way. I would go through and check it again. If it worked before you installed the starter it should work now. I don't see anything on the list that would keep it from starting. You didn't your CAS on accident did you?
I'll remove and replug the connectors once again, hopefully that works. Also, how should I check if I messed up the CAS on accident? I am able to communicate to it using both my scan tool and INPA.
Old 09-11-2022, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by sunnymore
Basically, when I push the start button, I can hear the starter run. And it is trying to start the car but the car won't fire..
"it turns over, but doesn't start" is probably a better description
Old 09-11-2022, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sunnymore
I have the creator C310 that I use to scan. I also tried to start it with the maf sensor connector disconnected to see if it would start, maybe the DME was compensating for the vacuum leak. Still had no luck.
That explains why you threw no codes. Creator 310 does not read generic codes, only BMW specific modules codes.

I used to own a Creator. I now own a scanner that reads both generic and BMW specific codes.
Old 09-11-2022, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by twh
If you didn't have to disconnect a lot to get he intake out of the way, you probably broke on or more of the hard plastic emissions/vacuum hoses. Some of those, if not connected, will cause the car to stall after starting. Getting the intake fully off is a minor PITA, but it just makes it so much easier to get done what needs to be done. It's also possible you messed up the crankshaft position sensor or wire. If you removed the sensor, possibly it isn't properly reseated. Maybe the + cable connection the starter is loose. Maybe the + jumper terminal is loose. Maybe the ground strap is done. Definitely go over everything again.
+1

There's nothing major to disconnect but there are a lot of minor things. It's not necessary to pull the manifold completely out, but there's still quite a bit of things to disconnect. Double-check everything, as there might be something broken or not reconnected just right.
Old 09-11-2022, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sunnymore
I surprisingly didn't have to disconnect anything major, I was able to pull the intake back with most stuff still on it. The only things I remember removing were air box, filter, throttle body , power steering reservoir ( unbolted and moved out of the way), and just the rest of the accessories on top such as cabin filters and strut mount etc.


I have the creator C310 that I use to scan. I also tried to start it with the maf sensor connector disconnected to see if it would start, maybe the DME was compensating for the vacuum leak. Still had no luck.
​​​​​​ Really sounds like large vacuum leak. Disconnecting MAF sensor works for minor leak, not large leak. I detected the leak by removing the air intake box sealing the intake tube with a latex glove, then removed the intake manifold pressure sensor, located between the 5th and 6th intake runners. Used this pressure sensor hole to blow air using an air pump hose with tapered end wrapped with electrical tape for good seal. If no leaks, the glove should inflate and remain inflated. In my case, it deflated within 5 seconds. I used soapy water spray to all the connections while slowly blowing, found out one of the o rings of the ccv tubes got pinched out of place when I moved the air intake aside when I replaced the starter.
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