My 2008 550i sport needs a suspension refresh and I'm thinking about replacing the front control arms myself using the Meyle kit from FCP Euro.
It's been a while since I did front end work on my old E39 and I remember having trouble getting the upper thrust arm bushings loose and ultimately had to get professional help.
Has anyone done this work on their E60 and how easy/difficult was it to swap out all these parts.
Here is the link to the control arm kit I'm referring to: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...08piecekit1-my
Your assistance is appreciated.

 

I just did a complete front-end and rear-end refresh including the struts. Those are not hard at all to do. I would say before you tighten the bushing side down get it ride height then torque down otherwise you'll be replacing them sooner than you think.

 

I've done it on my 2006 530xi. If you are using this kit, it has new bushings so there is no need to press out the old ones and in the new ones. Also, since you are replacing it all, you don't have to be kind to the ball joints and that helps getting it all apart. I don't know how the ball joint goes into the 550 knuckle, but that was the hardest part on my 530xi. I had to beat the crap out of the ball joint cup to get it out of the knuckle. Pretty sure you'll need some new bolts as some of them are one time use. You'll need a high range torque wrench to get it tightened according to spec. Make sure you have the front on the ground or on ramps or raise up the rotor when you do the tightening or you will ruin the bushings fast.

 

"I had to beat the crap out of the ball joint cup to get it out of the knuckle."

This was the problem I had on my E39: I couldn't dislodge the upper control arm from the socket; I broke 3 pickle forks trying to pry the arm apart and finally had to surrender..
Do I need any special tools the get things apart or put back together (besides the torque wrench which I have)?
Thx

 

Seanjordan20 and twh:
I have ordered the 8-pc front control arm kit for my 2008 550i as discussed above ( https://www.fcpeuro.com/public/asset...JPG?1629813253 ).
Yesterday afternoon I pulled the front wheel to see what I would be looking at and everything is visible and seemingly accessible from the wheel well.
As I put together an attack plan, is there anything in particular I should consider since this is the first time I'm doing this job?
Is there a particular sequence I should follow as I dis-assemble and re-assemble everything?
Should I be removing and replacing an individual arm before moving on to the next one as they appear to be inter-connected in some cases?
I can't see how the tie rod assembly connects in the center as it's covered with some type of billows; how does that come apart and reconnect?
twh: if you had to beat the crap out of the ball joint to get the old one out, how easily/hard did the new one go on? Did you need to lube it with anything first?

I must confess I am slightly hesitant to undertake this job. My biggest fear is getting it apart and not being able to get the new parts put back together. Any more tips you could offer would be most appreciated.
Thanks

 

Do it the way that best suits you. I'd take a pic of it before breaking it down. I've seen people put the sway bar link back in the wrong orientation.

Your ball joints shouldn't be an issue unless you live in where it snows. Mine came out as usual.

For the tie rod. Undo the out rod first and count the rotations it takes for it to come off the inner rod. That's the number you'll use when putting it back together. For the inner tie rod you unclamp the small part of the bellow. It should be a regular clamp you take off with some pliers. The front of the bellow you get a flat head or something to pry off the clamp from the steering rack. Once you do that slide the bellow off the inner tie rod. From there you'll see what you need to do to get the inner tie rod off. If you don't have a tie rod tool you can use a pipe wrench to get it off and on. Once you put the new one back on slide the bellow back on the use big zip ties to secure it back to the steering rack. I hope these instructions are correct as I work on too many type of cars. If not these instructions are pretty close to what needs to happen.

Let us know how it goes

 

Sean:
If I'm hearing you correctly, the control arms should be a straight-forward off/on once the bolts are removed; that's good to hear.
Your explanation of what to expect with the tie rods is helpful, even if I currently have a hard time envisioning what you're describing. Your guidance will give me a clear picture of what to look for.
I don't have any specialty tools so will have to make due with pliers, vice grips, and pipe wrenches I guess.
Thanks again for your insights.