Dealership says BMW recommends to replace rotors when replacing brake
06-13-2011, 07:05 PM
#11
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Thanks for the feedback, bro! And the tip about bedding the brakes 
Well, this is my first time, so it'll probably take me twice as long. BTW, how tough/long is the procedure for changing the brake fluid? I'm at 67k miles, do you think it needs to be replaced yet?
I guess the final question is, to go with OEM or performance after market rotors and pads?
Well, this is my first time, so it'll probably take me twice as long. BTW, how tough/long is the procedure for changing the brake fluid? I'm at 67k miles, do you think it needs to be replaced yet?
I guess the final question is, to go with OEM or performance after market rotors and pads?
There is a DIY on changing the brake fluid. It seems to be very straight forward.
As for the parts itself, I would go with aftermarket but high end type to get less dust plus gotta love the look of those crossed drill rotors. Michael should be able to help you decide there. Surprise he hasn't replied yet.
06-13-2011, 07:28 PM
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My Ride: ///M5 BEAST
Model Year: 2006
i cannot stress this enough....do them yourself!
just a week ago i did my front brakes all by myself. i went with R1 concepts cross drilled and slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads....all things considered i spent well under $400 and the install was pretty straight forward. hell, if you are in michigan/detroit area ill even help out....it was fun, but then again i love working on my E60.
def dont pay the stealership. you would be pissed if you knew how simple it is to replace the rotors and pads, both front and back.
there is tons of info on this site and other walk throughs available online...im not expert but givent that i just did it myself shoot me a PM if you have questions or think i can help.
i def would recommend mike over @ acute performance for the parts, great prices and custo service!
just a week ago i did my front brakes all by myself. i went with R1 concepts cross drilled and slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads....all things considered i spent well under $400 and the install was pretty straight forward. hell, if you are in michigan/detroit area ill even help out....it was fun, but then again i love working on my E60.
def dont pay the stealership. you would be pissed if you knew how simple it is to replace the rotors and pads, both front and back.
there is tons of info on this site and other walk throughs available online...im not expert but givent that i just did it myself shoot me a PM if you have questions or think i can help.
i def would recommend mike over @ acute performance for the parts, great prices and custo service!
06-13-2011, 08:27 PM
#14
i cannot stress this enough....do them yourself!
just a week ago i did my front brakes all by myself. i went with R1 concepts cross drilled and slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads....all things considered i spent well under $400 and the install was pretty straight forward. hell, if you are in michigan/detroit area ill even help out....it was fun, but then again i love working on my E60.
def dont pay the stealership. you would be pissed if you knew how simple it is to replace the rotors and pads, both front and back.
there is tons of info on this site and other walk throughs available online...im not expert but givent that i just did it myself shoot me a PM if you have questions or think i can help.
i def would recommend mike over @ acute performance for the parts, great prices and custo service!
just a week ago i did my front brakes all by myself. i went with R1 concepts cross drilled and slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads....all things considered i spent well under $400 and the install was pretty straight forward. hell, if you are in michigan/detroit area ill even help out....it was fun, but then again i love working on my E60.
def dont pay the stealership. you would be pissed if you knew how simple it is to replace the rotors and pads, both front and back.
there is tons of info on this site and other walk throughs available online...im not expert but givent that i just did it myself shoot me a PM if you have questions or think i can help.
i def would recommend mike over @ acute performance for the parts, great prices and custo service!
BTW, back to the thread topic, is it required to replace the rotors when replacing the pads? What's the minimum thickness of the brake disc for it still to be in good condition?
06-13-2011, 08:41 PM
#16
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Do it yourself, save major cash and be happy with it. I had my front pads and the rear rotors and pads under maintenance warranty for free.
Almost wish I didn't. Soon after they replaced my front pads I got the Hawk HPS from Michael (acuteperformance), I am MUCH happier with those than the OEM pads. The OEM pads sqeak and produce TONS of dust!!! Then I got the rear pads and rotors replaced under warranty and still have the OEM on the rear, they squeal like a stuck pig.
When replacing yourself a little advice:
1) Get a brake rotor tool that makes it easier for you to push the piston in the rotor back in (got mine at Sears for about $3)
2) ALWAYS clean the rotors before mounting, they come with an greasy anti-rust coating for shipping.
3) remove the cap to your brake reservoir and put a paper towel or a CLEAN rag over the hole. When you push the piston back in you force fluid back into the reservoir and it can leak out (which is REALLY bad for the painted parts of your engine bay).
As for the bedding process - it's difference when you are using performance brakes like the Hawks as opposed to OEM brakes. I went to an industrial area near my house, did 12-14 runs of 10mph-60mph-10mph. The keys to note are: 1) NEVER let the car come to a full stop, 2) Keep doing it until you smell the brakes and they start to fade a little. This means the "bed-in" coating on the pads has burned off and they have left a nice coat on the rotors and you are good to drive as normal.
Follow the tips and the video and you should be good to go, good luck
Almost wish I didn't. Soon after they replaced my front pads I got the Hawk HPS from Michael (acuteperformance), I am MUCH happier with those than the OEM pads. The OEM pads sqeak and produce TONS of dust!!! Then I got the rear pads and rotors replaced under warranty and still have the OEM on the rear, they squeal like a stuck pig.
When replacing yourself a little advice:
1) Get a brake rotor tool that makes it easier for you to push the piston in the rotor back in (got mine at Sears for about $3)
2) ALWAYS clean the rotors before mounting, they come with an greasy anti-rust coating for shipping.
3) remove the cap to your brake reservoir and put a paper towel or a CLEAN rag over the hole. When you push the piston back in you force fluid back into the reservoir and it can leak out (which is REALLY bad for the painted parts of your engine bay).
As for the bedding process - it's difference when you are using performance brakes like the Hawks as opposed to OEM brakes. I went to an industrial area near my house, did 12-14 runs of 10mph-60mph-10mph. The keys to note are: 1) NEVER let the car come to a full stop, 2) Keep doing it until you smell the brakes and they start to fade a little. This means the "bed-in" coating on the pads has burned off and they have left a nice coat on the rotors and you are good to drive as normal.
Follow the tips and the video and you should be good to go, good luck
06-14-2011, 05:29 AM
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My Ride: 2004 545i, 6-speed Manual, Silver Grey Metallic, Grey Dakota Leather, Cold Weather Pkg, Premium Sound Pkg, Sport Pkg, Lumbar Support
When I had my brake pads replaced under original warranty, the notes said min spec is 22.4 mm for both front and rear rotors. Since both rotors were above this spec, they did not change them.
06-14-2011, 05:46 AM
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I would say closer to 4 hours to do all 4 without a lift. Then there is the cleaning, inspecting, greasing, assembly, removal of rims etc..it adds up. Ha ha then when you're almost finished on a side you say to yourself man I should paint those calipers LOL...But in the end you save big money
Did bmw check thickness?
Did bmw check thickness?
06-14-2011, 08:52 AM
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Replacing or resurfacing the rotors is pretty standard. If you're doing it yourself, you can bring the rotors to pep boys or some auto shop to have them resurface it. It helps get the most life out of the pads. Uneven or warped rotors can cause premature wear. Make sure you get a one man brake bleeding tool. It will come in handy when you need to bleed the brakes.