3x3Tails

For context this has been a problem for about 6-7 months, put the key in and try and start the car it wont crank. After a few trys it with crank but wont actually start, just goes on cranking. I looked up the problem and realized it was a bit more deep then I could handle at the time. So I sent it to a indy in hope that they would be able to get it sorted. 5-6 months later they drop the ball and got nothing done but get a new key for it, and had to get it towed back home. (did get a diagnostic though, I'll post that below) In that time I finished high school and had a lot more time to research the problem. After looking at the code from the diagnostic I went and got a k+dcan cable, Inpa and ncsexpert (the .zip file i got it from was labeled "EasyBMWTools", if I remember correctly I got it from bimmer forums and I was called something like mike's easy bmw tools) to code the new battery (oh yha the indy stole my brand new $200 bat and replaced it with a crappy $20 bat), and read up on my codes I got.
Here they are (verbatim from the diagnostic I got):

After looking up the codes that seemed most likely to be the culprit (while my headlights are throwing 7 codes all on their own, I doubt its stopping the car from running) and based on the cranking but no starting i figure its the cas and dme are misaligned. So I when to the car hooked up the laptop with inpa and attempted to realign the cas. After finding the alignment options hiding in activate (rather then being front and center like it is for the e90 on inpa) I went for it and was greeted with "Error #19 IFH-0009 NO RESPONSE FROM CONTROLUNIT"
My dad did a little digging on it while I focused on getting a job and told me that it could be a bad cable, bad software, or the computer itself isn't able to be used with the software. After hearing that I deleted the "EasyBMWTools" install and got the "BimmerGeeks Standard Tools" Install, followed the install instructions to a T (even reinstalled the dcan cable drivers); and after all that I still got the same error. now I'm at a loss and have no clue what I'm supposed to. Looking up the IFH-0009 error code doesn't fill me with confidence with one of the posts being titled "Having problems with bricked cas 3" (truly inspiring title right there). I have no real idea what the indy did to it for half the year except for the new key, but idk how they went about programing it to the car. I can't ask them what they did because, long story short, the ones who worked on my car got fired.

I guess my question to go with all this is what am I doing wrong? To my knowledge I'm doing it correctly but I'm clearly not. Is this a deeper problem like a bricked cas? Am I completely wrong in the diagnosis and has nothing to do with the cas and dme? Is my dad right and my process is flawed? I need help.

Video of the car cranking but not starting:

donpb

I don't like messing with INPA ISTA NCS Expert etc etc.

Go purchase a BMW Code Reader. There's so many things that could be causing your problem.

3x3Tails

Yes, that is something that I need to do period, but getting one right now isn't worth it now that I have 20 or so codes that I have no reason to doubt. Plus inpa can read codes (though its all in German )
I'd love to pick up a nt510, or carly, but I don't think that will get me closer to the solution (unless it will and I'm just blind)

seanjordan20

Are you using the new key or old key/s. You should be using the old keys.

There is no reason to do an alignment unless you replaced a module. Alignment doesn't just go out.

Sadly you're worst of from when you started because you have no clue what they did. You have to read the codes. I didn't see you post the INPA codes. Read the AIF to see the status of the CAS.

donpb

Not so. Often times you may need to clear codes to see which ones return.

I used to have an nt510. Its the same hardware as cheaper devices.

You need to be able to read the modules and live streams, not just the static codes.

3x3Tails

I'm using the new one because the old one is held together with duck tape and has a 50/50 chance of being recognized. I believe the new one is a oem key from bmw (that's what they said back in the first month of it being at the indy). The unlock (and the trunk I think, haven't tested it) button works, the lock button does nothing but neither does the lock button in the car or the door locks so I think that's part of the 2F44 code
I'll get you what is currently on it when the laptop is done charging (shouldn't be too long). I cleared the codes to see what would come back and to have a clear focus point. I can confirm that all the codes that where on the diagnostic did exist in inpa before I cleared. From what i remember 2F44, 2F45, and one other came back.

Other codes ik will comeback at some point will be the Bluetooth fault and all the headlight codes. Bluetooth never worked and the headlights need to be replaced.

(also I cant see my own replies?? I don't use forums that often so I don't know if I'm doing it wrong Edit: nvm ig it fixed itself idk)

seanjordan20

Ok. Well sadly you have no idea if the key is actually programmed correctly so you may be spinning your wheels on that one since they could never get the car started. Are you sure you have INPA installed correctly to not be able to execute the CAS/EWS alignment. Do you have a steering wheel with lock on it in the dash lit up? Does your cable have the switch? If so have you moved the switch to see if it corrects the issue of not executing the alignment. I'll see what codes you report back and see if your modules are in an ok status.

3x3Tails

I followed the install instructions from bimmer geeks exactly, restarted when it said to and all. If that is the problem and bimmer geeks was a bad download then I do have a disk that came with the cable with inpa on it (that's what it says on the disk) however getting it off the disk is gonna be tricky because I don't have a disk reader.
When I go to the car ill get a video of the dash with both keys.
It has a 3 position switch with 2 wires connected to it. I've tried it on all three positions to no avail. A friend is willing to let me borrow his cable soon so I'll try with his if it doesn't get resolved by then.

3x3Tails

Codes from Inpa
Google translate version
Where do I go to find that, I looked in the status section on Inpa but the only think I found that was close was "condition EWS OK" and that was set to on.

Video of testing both keys and the dash when both are used:

3x3Tails

I don't know if I'm should be mad or happy right now. I went plundering inside Inpa to see find the "AIF" that was asked for. for script selection I decided to pick the cas instead of the my engine, I went looking in the cas options to see what I could find in the status and what not. I moved into the activate area and found a button labeled (something along the lines of) 'sync. CAS to ECU' I thought that it looked like the option I was originally trying to use, so I decided to try it and see if it would do anything (I was 100% expecting it to say IFH-0009 and not do anything), to my surprise it popped up with three big boxes with the labels of "i. o." and they all turned green shortly after popping up. Then a few f-key options we made available and f10 was one of them. I got the hell out of there as to not do further damage. The car was still on and everything was still working as it had been. Idrive, the cluster, and ac still worked so I assumed what ever it did was nothing major. I turned off Inpa and turned the car off, then I turned the car back on to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Seeing it turn on like nothing has happened was a relief. Then I decided to test if it would still crank and if I gone backwards. It cranked like it had been for a second then fired up like nothing was ever amiss. It revved fine, brake pressure returned to normal along with power steering, ac started to get cold again and it was running just fine. The only problem was the smoke coming out of the hood but that eventually stopped (prob leaking oil burning off, it was white like burned oil). Turned the car off and on again and started like normal, a quick test drive around the block proved that it could lug its fat self around with no issues (other then the active steering warning going off every 5 seconds). 6-7 months out-of-order just to accidentally fix. I'll have to check if any of the codes got fixed but for now its a massive win (still mad that it took so long for a indy to say idk wtf is up and about a month for me to stumble across a fix)

On the note of the key, it seems that the key was the only thing the indy did right. Inpa said that the key was being recognized and accepted by the car (proved by the key starting the car). After it started I tested the trunk button and the lock button and they both started working as they should have been. So it looks like the indy did properly set up the key.

I have no clue if this was the right fix or not but it did seem to fix the main problem. What did inpa actully do here because it was pretty confusing with what it did to the car? Just a few boxed that said i.o. and lit up green. I can only assume that it synced the dme and cas, but whether that's right or not idk.
I'll go look at the codes soon to see if it did sort the problem.