Wow, this is a good debate here. I completely see valid points from both sides. A battery is just a battery. But we also have to remember our E60's are not so simple as cars from 10 years ago. Everything is computerized and wired to something else. I mean my Battery drain was from my damn Comfort Access door handles. I even heard you really can't mess with the radio cause it's tied into the fiber optics running through the car. Peace of mind works for me. If you bought and installed you're own battery - I wish you the best.

As stated previously, I got several other things done to my car when I got my $450 battery installed and registered. No $50 CPO minimal fee and two repairs I would have normally paid $100 plus for each. "Good Faith" or whatever the SA listed them as.

 

Well, if the car is as "smart" as some of theposters claim it is, whether it's registered or not is irrelevant. The car should automatically monitor the battery voltage and adjust the proper recharge, as needed. This whole notion that the car computer needs to be "reset" or "reinitialized" because it does not know that you replaced the battery is rediculous. Think of this scenario - during the winter months, the car's battery discharge rate is much higher, and the car must recharge the battery differently, compared to the summer. For example, if you do a number of short trips durng the winter, then your battery is going to be discharged much quicker, and the car's recharge system must compensate for this. During this time, your car would believe it is an "old" or "dying" battery. Yet, when the battery would again be at peak performance and acting again as a "new" battery (say during the warmer spring months), according to your theory, the car would not adjust, because it would still think it is an "old" battery. Clearly, this is incorrect. I agree, however, going from conventional to AMG is a different issue (because the discharge/recharge rate is completely different), but if you replace conventional with conventional, you should be fine. Moreover, if you get a good replacement battery to begin with (such as an Autozone Duralast Gold), it has three-year 100% replacement coverage (BTW - these are actually made by Johnson Control - same company that makes 75% of the batteries you buy on the market). So, if there is any problem with the battery within the first three years, you're still covered (it then has 8 year prorated covered). With that type of coverage, I'd rather take my chances.

I will say, however, that one of the most important things to do if you're replacing your own battery is to ensure it is properly hooked up to the vent hose. You don't want hydrogen gas filling the trunk area.


BTW - original BMW batteries are made by Werker.

 

A complete guess here, but maybe this "programming" is simply a way to "tell" the car when a new battery was installed...in the same way you "tell" it when new oil is installed, or brake fluid. This way, the car can let you know when it is getting close to time to change your battery. Obviously, the car can monitor the voltage levels of the battery and let you know it is getting weak/low...but by the time a detectable voltage drop is detected, you probably are already having problems...so a system that monitors battery usage & time might be what is at play here. It's just an idea...thoughts??

 

The common things I've seen so far are that the aftermaret install is in the low two hundreds and the dealer is low 400's. For the piece of mind of knowing that the battery cannot be used as an excuse to void cpo warranty or even for that matter, not worrying about premature drainging prematurely...I think the 200 difference is well worth it. We have seen many posts about incorrect placement or jumpstart of cars that lead to very expensive repairs. Not worth the risk in my opinion. You drive bmw's not kias!

 

What "other" things have you had them do under CPO.

 

The SA had my front window trim that was falling apart replaced. I got the back done before my regular warranty ended, but after 50k miles the SA wanted to charge me like $170 I think to do the front window molding.

The other thing was my passenger thigh support extension. One day while cleaning the inside of the car I hit the switch and I could hear the motor but the piece wouldn't move back. The SA tells me it may be covered under CPO, but I have to charge you like $175 to figure out what the problem is.

I was already there pissed because I was getting an expensive a$$ brake flushing. I decline on those repairs thinking I would handle them later. Well, I reminded him about those things when I went back to have my battery dealt with and he clear them as "Good Faith" All I know is I felt better about getting the $420 battery. Also, he waved the CPO fee of $50; probably because I had told him I knew it wasn't the battery causing my High Battery Drain.

 

Well, first of all, its not my theory as you speculate. It is FACT from BMW. Whether you like it or not, thats just the way it is and you are entitled to your opinion. I believe in following the manufacturers recommendations and thats what I do.

 

Don't know what you consider expensive brake flushing, but my dealer charged $110, well worth making sure you have fresh fluid and no water.

Cal

 

You only paid $110? damn, I thinking $110 was just for the labor.

 

For everyone here having battery problems.....maybe you should get the bdealer to check the "IBS lead" as I had two batteries in a short period and sent it back under warranty both times and it turned out to be that lead.

It is basically an earth strap on the battery with a sensor and this is what causes the high rate of discharge warning on the i-drive and battery is chrging but the drain of the battery is faster than the charge holding inside th battery and it causes a small short and this drains th battery by not making the car go to sleep properly causing a battrey drain.

Ive got a 2005 530i M sport and this was happening to my car.... The battery just wen flat over night for no reason.

The fault was the IBS lead which got moist or detriorated over time and caused the sensor to give the "high rate of discharge" warning on the i-drive....

I am sure the lead is a lot cheaper than the battery. It is a known common fault