armadda1

Hello 5 Series Peeps!

I have a 2010 535i w/ x-drive + m-sport package, 112K miles. Currently, my problem is that the speedo is sluggish and the real-time mpg gauge is totally dead, even during the KI-Test. I'm not sure if this is something recoverable, or if I just need to replace this cluster.

I've posted a short clip of the KI test here to show the current extent of my problem: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ExhMo4gnhVoknqru7

So if there is anyone in the Seattle area that has the ability and tools to 'virginize' the eeprom and throw my vin in a new cluster for a nice dinner/beer and/or less cash than the stealership might charge... Feel free to PM me.

Or better, if someone knows a way to recalibrate the needles and fix the mpg needle... Same offer...


I know how I got to this point may be relevant, so bear with me while I spin a little tale of stupidity (mainly, mine).

I went out to my car the other day, and started it, only to find that I had (apparently) no power to the instrument cluster. I-drive is fine, but reported no date/temp/etc. I was in a hurry, so I shut her off, and took a different vehicle.

When I got back, I did the easy troubleshooting I could find, or think of myself.
- check the fuses (all good)
- check the trunk/spare tire area for any signs of moisture (all good)
- remove cluster, unplug, plug back in (no change)
- throw a battery tender on it for 48 hours (no change)

With those all yielding a big steaming pile of nothing, I pulled out Carly and ran diagnostics. I had a giant pile of codes, mostly related to missing sensor readings, and from what I understand, that's because the cluster does a lot more than just display information. I work in IT, and I'm handy with a soldering iron, so I yanked out the cluster. Some of you already see my F*** up coming at me like a train, but I only have hind sight. I took off the front shroud, pulled the needles off (gently), and removed the PCB, which I now know is 100% fine. No blown caps, no reflowed solder, just a cluster that was 100% fine until I started screwing with it.

So I put it all back together (carefully) and went back to the internet looking for clues. I found that the PDC controller in the trunk can sometimes cause an inoperative cluster. So I proceeded to:
- Unplug the PDC
- Plug in the cluster
- Start car, and voila, power to the cluster.
- Shut the car off
- Plug the PDC back in
- Start car, and SUCCESS! Cluster has power

I was thrilled, I thought I had finally found the problem, and it was a simple thing, and I learned all about the cluster.

Except I apparently wasn't gentle enough with the needles, and shouldn't have been in the cluster to begin with, because my mpg needle is dead, and my speedo needle is very slow. I've tried (again, gently) manually setting them to 0 while the cluster is unplugged, but it makes no difference. Tach and fuel are fine.

I've posted a short clip of the KI test here to show the current extent of my problem: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ExhMo4gnhVoknqru7

I am handy, and I am technical. I am comfortable with a soldering iron and heat gun. I have a used cluster coming from ebay. I'm nervous to try an eeprom transplant without understanding what I did wrong disassembling the first time. If there are any folks in Washington or northern Oregon, I'd be more than happy to pay you, buy you beer, fix your computer, etc. I don't know if I'm better off trying to get someone to fix the cluster I have, or flash the one that's on it's way, but feel free to throw out some suggestions.

NoQuarter

you may have pulled the needle gears out of alignment. open it back up and take a look at the little "box" where you snap on the needle. You might need to pry it open and help the gears back into position

armadda1

I will give that a shot, hopefully that's all it is! Thanks!

armadda1

In terms of "calibration" - do I just need to make sure they are manually set to whatever their starting point should be, or is there an actual electrical calibration that needs to happen? Couple videos I watched indicated that if the needles were removed, there was supposed to be some kind of recalibration on a bench.

NoQuarter

You can just visually install the needles at "0" position and they will be really close.

There is a calibration process but I have not done it. It might be in INPA.