Clunk when turning
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Birmingham, AL
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My Ride: 535i 6-speed
Model Year: 2008
Did anyone get this figured out?
I am having the same issue, ONLY when i turn right, 2 clunks, noticeable at lower speeds with loaded suspension (i lifted the car to turn the wheel and check - no knocking), I feel it slightly at my feet and in the steering wheel. Has been slowly getting worse.
I am having the same issue, ONLY when i turn right, 2 clunks, noticeable at lower speeds with loaded suspension (i lifted the car to turn the wheel and check - no knocking), I feel it slightly at my feet and in the steering wheel. Has been slowly getting worse.
Last edited by Allen; 01-18-2020 at 07:32 AM.
#14
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Location: Birmingham, AL
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My Ride: 535i 6-speed
Model Year: 2008
#15
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No chance i'm going to be spending that kind of money. Not on a sway bar. There's a reason i'm even holding off on replacing the turbos. in the last year I've don't 4 front control arms, stabilizer links, water pump thermostat. the year before was valve cover, belt tensioner and pulleys, oil filter, oil cooler gaskets. Even if i try to sell the car today. Id be blessed to get 6k for it. Im still on index 1 injectors and theres a log list of things that can still go wrong
but yet I still love this car.
but yet I still love this car.
#16
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My Ride: 535i 6-speed
Model Year: 2008
No chance i'm going to be spending that kind of money. Not on a sway bar. There's a reason i'm even holding off on replacing the turbos. in the last year I've don't 4 front control arms, stabilizer links, water pump thermostat. the year before was valve cover, belt tensioner and pulleys, oil filter, oil cooler gaskets. Even if i try to sell the car today. Id be blessed to get 6k for it. Im still on index 1 injectors and theres a log list of things that can still go wrong
but yet I still love this car.
but yet I still love this car.
Honestly, I can't see a scenario where I scrap this car due to repair costs. I did the exact same with my '95 525i...but it required very minimal money over it's 256,000 miles. I only got rid of it when I was rear-ended and it was totaled...a VERY VERY sad day that was!!
#17
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I'm sure you've heard the phrase..."you're telling Noah about the flood..."? I too have spent way too much on mine. But I am the original owner, the interior and body are literally like new....and I LOVE this car. It would take a TON of money to get another car that could fill it's shoes. So, it's the age old car delima...how many repairs could a $500 per month car payment make?
Honestly, I can't see a scenario where I scrap this car due to repair costs. I did the exact same with my '95 525i...but it required very minimal money over it's 256,000 miles. I only got rid of it when I was rear-ended and it was totaled...a VERY VERY sad day that was!!
Honestly, I can't see a scenario where I scrap this car due to repair costs. I did the exact same with my '95 525i...but it required very minimal money over it's 256,000 miles. I only got rid of it when I was rear-ended and it was totaled...a VERY VERY sad day that was!!
I will update everyone on my outcome with the noises. Im actually starting to think it may be a strut mount also as it only happens under loaded suspension.
#18
Fixed?
So I think the problem was a fatiguing subframe mount for the anti roll bar. A year after the problem started, the bolting point for the anti roll bar clamp sheared off the frame which required a front subframe replacement. Since the subframe is made of aluminum, it is more likely to experience failure from fatigue. I'm guessing the sound was from the metal slightly bending during each turn and loading of the bar.
I know it’s been a while but how did your subframe anti roll bar mounting bracket got fixed? Was it welded back or have to replace the whole subframe? I have the exact same issue😕
#19
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My Ride: 2008 528i, Dynamic Drive, Active Steering, Nav, Adaptive Xenon, Comfort Seats
might be able to get it welded, but most mechanics won't do that and recommend a subframe replacement. I had to replace the subframe. If you catch it early you might be able to get it welded to prevent it from breaking. The issue with aluminum is that once it cracks, it will continue to grow as the part is loaded and unloaded.
#20
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My Ride: BMW E60 550i
Model Year: 550i 2007
Engine: N62B48
Transfer case fluid flush at least twice and recalibration needed
If your car is 4x4, most likely your transfer case need an oil flush, and recalibration!
check out that video
check out that video