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If coolant is still running through the system then you will be getting heat at the vents. Now the reason I took the part off the car and took it apart is because this issue could be caused buy bad gaskets in the part or your IHKA. If you are not getting an IHKA error then it points to the control valve but you don't want to buy the part if nothing is wrong so take it apart and check the gaskets and solenoids. If I remember correctly only 2 screws hold it together maybe 4 but it is very easy if you've ever taken something apart. The part can be rebuilt but I found a site that gave a lifetime warranty and the part was less than I found any where else OE. I also rebuilt the old one and sold it for half the price.
Also don't forget that your compressor is low so that needs to be fixed before you're able to get cold air. You're readings should be around 35 low side and 150 high side. I would address that first then TS the valve and you should have cold air again. The sensor code you got can be fixed if you'd like but not needed.
Do you know how long it's been since the a/c was serviced? Have you tried putting freon in the compressor yet? Have you tested to make sure your manifold is working correctly? I would just put them on another car to make sure. I have had that happen to me before working on someone else's car (manifold was bad giving incorrect readings).
[QUOTE=seanjordan20;1594061
Do you know how long it's been since the a/c was serviced?
Do you know how long it's been since the a/c was serviced?
Have you tested to make sure your manifold is working correctly?
.[/QUOTE]
Do you know how long it's been since the a/c was serviced?
Have you tried putting freon in the compressor yet?
I do not know when the A/C was serviced. I tried putting freon in it when I got the car over a year ago and it didn't do anything.
I was wondering if I overcharged it. But scan tool says freon is at 90% capacity.
Have you tested to make sure your manifold is working correctly?
I would just put them on another car to make sure.
Yes, the Gauges are working correctly,
I checked the temp of the hoses. In 3 places they are all within 10 degrees of one another.
I feel the vacuum test will pin point your issue. You stated before that your RPMs jumped when you turned the ac on. That means you're clutch is engaging and nothing is wrong with the compressor. You're getting heat when the ac is on which leads to low freon with those readings. After the vacuum test and if it holds fill at engagement and it should start getting cold after a few intervals. Make sure you don't over fill. If you do your fan will start blowing fast as a warning. When you hit 32psi then you are done.
Also don't forget that your compressor is low so that needs to be fixed before you're able to get cold air. You're readings should be around 35 low side and 150 high side.
I would address that first then
Do you mean evacuate and recharge with freon and 46 pag oil and check for leaks as you have suggested previously or to fit a new compressor?
I feel the vacuum test will pin point your issue. You stated before that your RPMs jumped when you turned the ac on. That means you're clutch is engaging and nothing is wrong with the compressor. You're getting heat when the ac is on which leads to low freon with those readings. After the vacuum test and if it holds fill at engagement and it should start getting cold after a few intervals. Make sure you don't over fill. If you do your fan will start blowing fast as a warning. When you hit 32psi then you are done.
You answered my question 2mins before I was wrote it. thanks my internet is spotty today haha..
I feel the vacuum test will pin point your issue..
What coolant from Autozone do you suggest?
I had an issue with a radiator pipe clip and it drained most of the coolant, it has mainly distilled water and a small amount of coolant at the moment.
I checked the temp of the hoses. In 3 places they are all within 10 degrees of one another.
That is fairly close. They should not be that close without having the heat on. The order I would take:
1. Vacuum test (if it pasts proceed)
2. Refill compressor (vent temp should read around 40 degrees if not proceed)
3. Check control valve hoses (if temp is around the same proceed)
4. Take valve apart and check gaskets (if bad proceed)
5. Replace or rebuild
If these steps do not work then the beginning step was not done correctly. Checking the codes. You have to make sure that your IHKA is not the issue.
I always assume people do the basics first before asking so I forget to make sure that has been done. I can build a chart to help with troubleshooting ac issues.
I had an issue with a radiator pipe clip and it drained most of the coolant, it has mainly distilled water and a small amount of coolant at the moment.
I would not put in the regular stuff unless you are planing to use it for now then drain. I would get the Pentofrost NF is you plan on doing this just one time. I only use BMW coolant but Pentofrost is the closest you will get at Autozone
Last edited by seanjordan20; 02-25-2018 at 02:28 PM.
02-25-2018, 12:51 PM
