which brand oil to use?
12-09-2010, 07:17 PM
#12
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Only the 0W30 is German made. All the other Syntec oils are US made. Not that US made is bad, but they're type III synthetics which many will argue are not true synthetics. I don't want to get into that discussion this close to bedtime and I've had one beer too many already. The German Castrol is PAO/ester based which is supposed to be better. Autozone used to stock the stuff, but last time I looked my local AZO didn't have it.
12-10-2010, 07:11 AM
#13
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My Ride: 2008 528i / 475 / LCSW / ZPP / ZSP / 205 / 4BY / 508 / 609 / 6FL
Go to Bob Is the Oil Guy, you'll get way more information than you want, leaving you really confused. I will run Red Line 5W40. You can argue that I can get adequate protection for less money, but you can't convince me that the RL 5W40 won't provide all the protection I'll need no matter how hard I drive. My car is way out of warranty so engine protection is more important to me than whether or not it's on BMW's list.
As you may already know (if you're on BITOG), BMW (and Porsche) oil approval process requires passing test sequences that are above the industry standards. I'd be willing to bet that they have more data than any boutique supplier would have. One particular BITOG thread that always stands out for me is: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1063580 , in particular a post from shortyb:
Originally Posted by shortyb
I can't address specific details, but suffice it to say that a certain big name oil blender has paid/been paid to be the exclusive oil for the Roundel crowd. This involves very specific processes and protocols for the LL standards with only general parameters being shared. Some of these you have already found. This is why some oils will meet/exceed the LL standards in general. Just as you've surmised, BMW has based the LL standards as global in scope. Yet another reason to use the blender since it's product is also available worldwide and at any BMW dealership. Starting with LL-01, the focus shifted to a mostly European demand for keeping oil in sump for long drains with an eye on oxidation. Oxidation meant sludge and wear, two main culprits that drove the standard. Also, to a lesser extent, for environmental reasons regarding disposal. TBN adds were designed to fall at a steady rate primarily with steady state (read highway) driving. This is why the algorithm for the oil moniter was changed from a multi-point read and calculation, to a simple fuel use calculation. Use X amount of fuel, time for an oil change. This why we see the wild variances in milage now when the oil is recommended for change. And with the advent of Valvetronic and higher MPG figures, we now see higher averages for OCI, some as high as 19K. Incidently, Valvetronic had a part in the LL-04 standard and not the LL-01.
Now to answer your question regarding the "other" oils. The only real way to see if these oils would work is through UOA. And then, this would only apply to how YOU want the oil to work. Basically, there really isn't anything out there (in recommended grade) that will kill the engine. But just like anything else, if you are using the product for other than average use, you may want to "tailor" an oil used for those specific needs. LL is no "magic bullet" and using an oil without the rating really wouldn't be a concern for me.
Now to answer your question regarding the "other" oils. The only real way to see if these oils would work is through UOA. And then, this would only apply to how YOU want the oil to work. Basically, there really isn't anything out there (in recommended grade) that will kill the engine. But just like anything else, if you are using the product for other than average use, you may want to "tailor" an oil used for those specific needs. LL is no "magic bullet" and using an oil without the rating really wouldn't be a concern for me.
BTW, my personal thoughts follow AE Haas and Doug Hillary. But being a Porsche owner as well, I'm more partial to Doug Hillary's knowledge and experience on the subject.
Michael.
12-10-2010, 07:45 AM
#14
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i think 10w40 is the equivalent of what you should be using with mobil 1, but if you can't find 0w30 castrol syntec from germany, your 2nd best alternative (OTC) would be penzoil platinum 5w30. that stuff is actually very good and better than mobil one.
12-10-2010, 12:44 PM
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How many engines have imploded due to "USA", "China" or Non German Castrol made oils? 
12-10-2010, 03:56 PM
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good question.....most likely answer is none. i have not seen any truly oil related failures on the forum yet. however, there have been many failures due to design flaws. i think you could put any synthetic oil of any viscosity grade and change it at 7500 miles and never have an oil related failure. bmw wants thin oil in your engine just for the improved fuel economy.
everyone including myself loves an oil debate, b/c everyone thinks they have the answer and there is rarely any conclusive data. its like talking about the weather, sports, or politics.
everyone including myself loves an oil debate, b/c everyone thinks they have the answer and there is rarely any conclusive data. its like talking about the weather, sports, or politics.
12-10-2010, 04:07 PM
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wrong. lots of oil analysis out there showing how long oils last until they begin to break down, by vehicle even. if you do your research, it's a pretty easy argument, actually.
12-10-2010, 04:26 PM
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ok fair enough. back to his original question, how many e60 engines have blown from not using EU castrol? do we know of any?
12-10-2010, 05:31 PM
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The Pennzoil Platinum, or Pennzoil Ultra should be terrific oils, though I have not yet used either. The Pennzoil Ultra is formulated to keep engines as clean as possible, which is intriguing. Personally I would look for a 5W40; I'm kind of leery of the Xw30 weight oils. I want 300,000 miles out of my engine, and I tend to open the throttle a lot...