Brake Bleeding - Help 04 545i
12-09-2014, 06:19 AM
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Brake Bleeding - Help 04 545i
Hello All,
So in troubleshooting an issue, I suspected a bad front caliper. Upon inspection, the seals were in bad shape as was the piston. I replaced both with remanufactured units and while I was at it, decided to replace the front lines as well due to age. No issues with leaking, just figured I would do both at the same time.
Once everyhting was re-assembled, I knew I had to bleed the brakes. This is where it all went south. I ordered a Motive Power Bleeder and grabbed a quart of Pentosin DOT 4 LV. The power bleeder sent to me by Amazon was not the European Adapter Model but the M1107 for Fords. In a bind, I decided to bleed the brakes using the one person method with a Genesis Bottle with one way valve. I bled each corner and all seemed well, never actually started the car as I had dinner plans. I figured when I got home I would test it. Once I got home, I started the car and noticed the brake pedal was extremely soft and spongy. It was rock hard when I was bleeding. I verified I had no leaks and the master cylinder reservoir was full. I kept my eye on the reservoir the entire time making sure to never let the fluid drop anywhere near the min mark. I am not an expert at bleeding brakes, but I am sure I have a lot of air in the system. I'm sure I have intriduced more inadvertently.
I had a friend help me bleed the brakes again last night (only the front due to time issues), but had the same effect. My replacement Motive should arrive today. I have two more quarts of Pentosin DOT 4 LV on hand. If I run them through the system and keep bleeding, will I be able to get all of the air out? I noticed my front pads are not even making contact with the surface of the rotor.
I don't think the MC is bad as the brake pedal does hold and not sink.
Any help or suggestion are greatly appreciated!
So in troubleshooting an issue, I suspected a bad front caliper. Upon inspection, the seals were in bad shape as was the piston. I replaced both with remanufactured units and while I was at it, decided to replace the front lines as well due to age. No issues with leaking, just figured I would do both at the same time.
Once everyhting was re-assembled, I knew I had to bleed the brakes. This is where it all went south. I ordered a Motive Power Bleeder and grabbed a quart of Pentosin DOT 4 LV. The power bleeder sent to me by Amazon was not the European Adapter Model but the M1107 for Fords. In a bind, I decided to bleed the brakes using the one person method with a Genesis Bottle with one way valve. I bled each corner and all seemed well, never actually started the car as I had dinner plans. I figured when I got home I would test it. Once I got home, I started the car and noticed the brake pedal was extremely soft and spongy. It was rock hard when I was bleeding. I verified I had no leaks and the master cylinder reservoir was full. I kept my eye on the reservoir the entire time making sure to never let the fluid drop anywhere near the min mark. I am not an expert at bleeding brakes, but I am sure I have a lot of air in the system. I'm sure I have intriduced more inadvertently.
I had a friend help me bleed the brakes again last night (only the front due to time issues), but had the same effect. My replacement Motive should arrive today. I have two more quarts of Pentosin DOT 4 LV on hand. If I run them through the system and keep bleeding, will I be able to get all of the air out? I noticed my front pads are not even making contact with the surface of the rotor.
I don't think the MC is bad as the brake pedal does hold and not sink.Any help or suggestion are greatly appreciated!
12-09-2014, 06:40 AM
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It scared the heck out of me when I had this problem. I fixed it after I bled the system in the following sequence:
1. Start bleeding from the right rear wheel (passenger's),
2. Bleed the left rear wheel
3. Bleed the front right wheel (passenger's)
4. Lastly, bleed the the front left wheel (driver's)
Taking short cuts don't work when it comes to getting all the air out of the system.
Good luck!
1. Start bleeding from the right rear wheel (passenger's),
2. Bleed the left rear wheel
3. Bleed the front right wheel (passenger's)
4. Lastly, bleed the the front left wheel (driver's)
Taking short cuts don't work when it comes to getting all the air out of the system.
Good luck!
12-09-2014, 06:47 AM
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It sure sounds like there is still air in the system. I wonder if it trapped in the ABS module?
Give that new Motive bleeder a whirl and see if it can get the air out. I'd let it bleed for a long time on each caliper.
If you have access to the BMW software then try and bleed the ABS unit as well.
Give that new Motive bleeder a whirl and see if it can get the air out. I'd let it bleed for a long time on each caliper.
If you have access to the BMW software then try and bleed the ABS unit as well.
12-09-2014, 07:15 AM
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It scared the heck out of me when I had this problem. I fixed it after I bled the system in the following sequence:
1. Start bleeding from the right rear wheel (passenger's),
2. Bleed the left rear wheel
3. Bleed the front right wheel (passenger's)
4. Lastly, bleed the the front left wheel (driver's)
Taking short cuts don't work when it comes to getting all the air out of the system.
Good luck!
1. Start bleeding from the right rear wheel (passenger's),
2. Bleed the left rear wheel
3. Bleed the front right wheel (passenger's)
4. Lastly, bleed the the front left wheel (driver's)
Taking short cuts don't work when it comes to getting all the air out of the system.
Good luck!
12-09-2014, 07:17 AM
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It sure sounds like there is still air in the system. I wonder if it trapped in the ABS module?
Give that new Motive bleeder a whirl and see if it can get the air out. I'd let it bleed for a long time on each caliper.
If you have access to the BMW software then try and bleed the ABS unit as well.
Give that new Motive bleeder a whirl and see if it can get the air out. I'd let it bleed for a long time on each caliper.
If you have access to the BMW software then try and bleed the ABS unit as well.
Would trapped air in the ABS Module cause this issue? Is the BMW Software the only way to bleed the ABS Module?
12-09-2014, 09:18 AM
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If the brake fluid reservoir ran dry of brake fluid during your bleeding process, BMW says you need to you a special procedure to get the air out the system. Probably overkill, but maybe not.
If you changed brake lines, did the reservoir run dry while you swapped the old ones out? Or while you bled them?
I'd just use the Motive and see what you get.
I have a manual transmission, so that takes some additional fluid. I always use two liters, that way I run plenty though and don't get close to running it dry.
If you changed brake lines, did the reservoir run dry while you swapped the old ones out? Or while you bled them?
I'd just use the Motive and see what you get.
I have a manual transmission, so that takes some additional fluid. I always use two liters, that way I run plenty though and don't get close to running it dry.
12-09-2014, 10:44 AM
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If the brake fluid reservoir ran dry of brake fluid during your bleeding process, BMW says you need to you a special procedure to get the air out the system. Probably overkill, but maybe not.
If you changed brake lines, did the reservoir run dry while you swapped the old ones out? Or while you bled them?
I'd just use the Motive and see what you get.
I have a manual transmission, so that takes some additional fluid. I always use two liters, that way I run plenty though and don't get close to running it dry.
If you changed brake lines, did the reservoir run dry while you swapped the old ones out? Or while you bled them?
I'd just use the Motive and see what you get.
I have a manual transmission, so that takes some additional fluid. I always use two liters, that way I run plenty though and don't get close to running it dry.
12-11-2014, 04:51 AM
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Ran 2.5 Liters of Pentosin DOT 4 LV through the system with the Motive Power Bleeder. Got a lot of air out of the front right caliper. Brake pedal is still soft. Thinking air maybe got into the ABS Module. I had it towed to an indy yesterday. Waiting to hear back.
Could air in the ABS Module cause the pedal to be spongy?
Could air in the ABS Module cause the pedal to be spongy?
12-16-2014, 11:04 AM
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Update:
I had the car towed to an Indy in my area. He flushed the system and re-bled the system with GT1. The brake pedal feel is much better and I can actually drive the car now. The pedal no longer sinks to the floor and feels firm. The only issue is the top of the pedal travel seems light and it seems like I need to push down a bit more on the pedal to get the same feel I used to get almost at the top of the travel before.
Does this seem like there still may be some air in the system? Don't get me wrong, as I push down on the pedal the braking force is what it should be. I just seems like the inital pedal travel is still soft up top. Does that make any sense?
I had the car towed to an Indy in my area. He flushed the system and re-bled the system with GT1. The brake pedal feel is much better and I can actually drive the car now. The pedal no longer sinks to the floor and feels firm. The only issue is the top of the pedal travel seems light and it seems like I need to push down a bit more on the pedal to get the same feel I used to get almost at the top of the travel before.
Does this seem like there still may be some air in the system? Don't get me wrong, as I push down on the pedal the braking force is what it should be. I just seems like the inital pedal travel is still soft up top. Does that make any sense?