Battery Issue, Possible related to idrive?
#1
New Members
Thread Starter
Battery Issue, Possible related to idrive?
I searched and my issue may or may not be like others,
Recently the Idrive and CCC (dvd and cd player) are turning off and on. I replaced the MPM and it changed nothing. I went today and had the battery tested in the car and it read 430 amps out of 730 CCA and was to low to test, so i have it on the trickle charger right now.
Would a low battery start disabling electronics specifically the idrive/ccc.
Thanks in advance.
Recently the Idrive and CCC (dvd and cd player) are turning off and on. I replaced the MPM and it changed nothing. I went today and had the battery tested in the car and it read 430 amps out of 730 CCA and was to low to test, so i have it on the trickle charger right now.
Would a low battery start disabling electronics specifically the idrive/ccc.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Administrator
Because our cars have so much electronic gadgetry, I wouldn't be surprised if it's the low battery that's causing your issues. Get that straightened out and let us know if the problem persists.
#3
Members
Senior Members
Check your alternator output also, both during idle and driving. It could be killing your battery and making electrical modules and systems do weird things.
Shortly after buying my car I replaced the battery only to find out that the alternator's voltage regulator was bad, causing system voltages to at times be as low as 12.4V, and at times be as high as 17V.
Measuring a 12.4V system voltage while the engine is running means the battery is supporting the entire electrical system. As the battery continues to drain and system voltage continues to drop current in the system will increase to continue to supply power demands and the DME will start to shut down systems to shed load to prevent the higher current from overheating wires and buss systems. When the voltages swing to as high as 17V some modules cry uncle and shutdown.
Measure your alternator output between the jump terminal and ground terminals under the hood with a digital multimeter ($5) and use a plug-in voltmeter during driving (you can also use the hidden menu and phone apps with an OBDII bluetooth adapter).
Shortly after buying my car I replaced the battery only to find out that the alternator's voltage regulator was bad, causing system voltages to at times be as low as 12.4V, and at times be as high as 17V.
Measuring a 12.4V system voltage while the engine is running means the battery is supporting the entire electrical system. As the battery continues to drain and system voltage continues to drop current in the system will increase to continue to supply power demands and the DME will start to shut down systems to shed load to prevent the higher current from overheating wires and buss systems. When the voltages swing to as high as 17V some modules cry uncle and shutdown.
Measure your alternator output between the jump terminal and ground terminals under the hood with a digital multimeter ($5) and use a plug-in voltmeter during driving (you can also use the hidden menu and phone apps with an OBDII bluetooth adapter).
#4
New Members
Thread Starter
i had battery on trickle charger all night and was still slow crank this morning, its a interstate 730cca. i am thinking its the battery.
#6
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Orlando
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My Ride: 2010 BMW 535i M Sport
Model Year: 2010
My alternator died about 2 weeks ago, a low battery would make the car go bananas. I have a 2010. ABS Sensor, Tranny Malfunction, etc. would come up on the idrive as fail due to not having enough juice. alternator replaced all good now.