Hi everyone, it happened to me in my 2009 528i 3 months ago, now the car is running fine but I'll tell you the story.

In May I lost my job an had an accident (with cheap insurance I couldn't get my car fixed from them.

It took a while to repair my car by myself but I did great, then my battery go fully drowned, and my buddy tried to jump the car from his tiny battery, I didn't realized he put the cables backwards during 30s

My alternator got worn, after I replaced it, the ABS, ASC and red Brake lights turned on, since then I couldn't get a reason why, I replaced fuses in good shape, abs module and wheel sensors, also the rear sensor got an alert, but now it was resetted and working well again.

I took the battery to another friend's house who put it to charge and now it works well.

I scanned my car and these were all the codes I got.

​​​​​1.A0B4 CAS: Engine Start, Starter Operation History
2.A0B1 CAS: Input, Selector-Lever Position, Implausible History

1.CDBE Message (Setpoint Torque Request, 0xB Faulty, ReceiverDME, Transmitter DME-DDE/DSCCurrent
2.2A87 DME: Exhaust VANOS, Mechanism History
3.2A16 Fuel Tank Ventilation System And Purge Air System, Micro-Leak
4.2A82 DME: VANOS Intake History

1.CF34 Message From The DSC, Receiver EGS, Transmitter DSC Current

GWS (Gear Selector Switch) 1 problem exist
1.A83B GWS: Undervoltage History

ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System - DSC)
​​​​
5DCF DSC: Control Unit, Undervoltage History
5F2F DSC: Interface, Transmission Control History
6DFB DSC: Control Unit: Pump Activation Current
6DC3 DSC: DSC Sensor: Adjustment Required Current
​​​​

​​​​​​I Don't know if there's a burned relay or hidden fuse that it might cause the issue, I also thought to replace the DSC module under the passenger sit, if someone else have this problem before, I'll be very thankfully if you let me know what should be, thank you in advance!!!

 

Clear your errors and post what comes back

 

This will be the 3rd time I do, the first one was many errors, that was the second, tomorrow I'll scan again and send updates!

 

No need if you've done it once. I just see undervoltage errors and if you've charged the battery and cleared the errors then you shouldn't be seeing that so something is still wrong. Need to look at your PDU under the hood to check fuses and relays and go from there. Everything seems to be a history or undervoltage which is wrong if you solved the battery issue

 

Yuppp i didn't check fuses/relays under the hood, have you the idea which one might be on N52 engine? 🤔

 

I'm also thinking put the old abs back again and reset, maybe the new one is not working well, do you know If only connecting the cable but no the brake lines should work? 🤔
It's so annoying to bleed all the brake fluid

 

What does the charge histogram look like, and did you perform a battery load test?

 

Hi sorry the delay, fortunatelly everything went fine till now, at the moment I just changed the alternator and everything went back to normal

The new issue I got and made me remember this threat was that alternator.
Let me put you in context with this story, yesterday I got an alert saying ''Battery isn't charging'', I was close to home so I put full gas to get, once I got in home, i check the positive terminal, was overheating, and the car didn't turn on, my friend jumped the car (the same who made the shortcircuit haha)

So, I drove again around the hood, all okay, but I saw a lot of voltage dropping on the hidden menu from 13v to 11.8 when applying brakes.
Today I changed the alternator and the battery died, jumped again and could drive normally. Arrived home, turn off and on back again the car and the same positive terminal was very hot.
Drove around the hood again and suddenly turned off the car, didn't star with a jumper, I was very nervious, tried everything so I have to pull to home, just going downhill.

Once I arrived, checked the voltage with a multimeter and said 12.8v, and magically the car turned on again, removed the positive terminal to ensure the new alternator really works well and yes it does, 13.5 - 13.7v as normal with lights off.
Then I left the car on 10 minutes and again it gets very hot.

I'm trying to figure out whats goin on, never had this issue before, so I'll tell you guys everything that happens soon, let me know if it's better idea to make a new threat. Greetings!

 

Forgot to advise, the ABS light went out, it was a loose fuse, I don't know how or why, did everything at the time but at least it's okay now

 

That’s how it looks, it only overheats when driving