Battery
#1
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So I've read all threads regarding battery replacement and had my heart set to purchase a Duralast Gold 95R/DLG as recommended from others. I called 2 Indy shops today and both said not to purchase Autozone batteries. One said OEM is the only way to as issues can arise later and the other said AGM only. Thoughts?
#2
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What battery is in the car now? Is it AGM or not? BMW does not make batteries. They are all made by only a handful of companies. I recently replaced my 530xi non-AGM with this one:
AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 95R, 950 CCA 95R/H9: Get best Battery at Advance Auto Parts
It actually says "Made in Germany" on it.
I also recently replaced my wife X5 battery which was an AGM battery with this one:
AutoCraft Gold AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 850 CCA H8-AGM: Buy the right Battery at Advance Auto Parts
AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 95R, 950 CCA 95R/H9: Get best Battery at Advance Auto Parts
It actually says "Made in Germany" on it.
I also recently replaced my wife X5 battery which was an AGM battery with this one:
AutoCraft Gold AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 850 CCA H8-AGM: Buy the right Battery at Advance Auto Parts
#3
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So I've read all threads regarding battery replacement and had my heart set to purchase a Duralast Gold 95R/DLG as recommended from others. I called 2 Indy shops today and both said not to purchase Autozone batteries. One said OEM is the only way to as issues can arise later and the other said AGM only. Thoughts?
If you have a FLA battery and switch to an AGM, the car will need reprogrammed.
#4
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So I've read all threads regarding battery replacement and had my heart set to purchase a Duralast Gold 95R/DLG as recommended from others. I called 2 Indy shops today and both said not to purchase Autozone batteries. One said OEM is the only way to as issues can arise later and the other said AGM only. Thoughts?
#5
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According to BMW, you are always supposed to register the battery.
According to BMW, you must recode part of the car if you change the battery type or spec. That is, you need to tell the car what Ah the battery is and is it AGM or not. If that changes, you need to do more than register.
According to BMW, you must recode part of the car if you change the battery type or spec. That is, you need to tell the car what Ah the battery is and is it AGM or not. If that changes, you need to do more than register.
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The white FLA batteries came standard with BMWs until a few years ago. Now they're coming through AGM. You haven't filled out your profile or indicated what year, make and model you have, but from your choice of the Duralast Gold 95R/DLG, I'm guessing you're replacing an AGM battery. As others have said, the AutoZone and Advanced Auto batteries are just fine. Just make sure you match the CCA and Au stated on your old battery. Unless you get the exact replacement (spec-wise, not brand), you'll have to register it, which only runs about $50 from an indy.
Last edited by FaintReality; 02-17-2014 at 04:31 PM.
#7
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Just an update...I purchased the Duralast Gold 95R/DLG and dropped it in without registering. But took a trip down to LA from Sacramento this weekend. During the trip I got brake wear indicator and window anti trap alerts. I was able to reset the window anti trap message and I thought my brakes were ok for some time but maybe they are due to be changed. I hope these are not in anyway associated with the new battery as one of the Indy shops stated a non OEM battery can cause some issues.
#9
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Your indy could be right. I was getting all kinds of screwy non-related error messages when my battery started to go. They went away once the new battery was installed.
Unless your new Duralast is an EXACT REPLACEMENT (spec-wise) of your old battery, not registering it is only courting trouble.
Unless your new Duralast is an EXACT REPLACEMENT (spec-wise) of your old battery, not registering it is only courting trouble.
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H8 is a size. The old battery council name for that size was Group 49.
I have no idea why the naming changed. H6, H7, H8 are the batteries found in most Euro cars. They have the post set a bit below the top surface of battery and have the provisions for terminal covers. They also use the DIN standard anchoring flanges at bottom of battery case.
BMW and lots of others now use "smart" charging and try to set the charging based on use, type, capacity, and age of battery. The current monitor (BMW speak: IBS) on the cable end is the best way they can defeat some of the key off features if the battery drain as measured by the shunt says the safe current draw level is reached.
I personally dislike all the radio plays on and lights stay on stuff. starting the car and then immediately charging the battery with the alternator is just a pat on the butt (mild kick if diesel with glow plugs). Running a bunch of stuff after engine is shut down and not charging for hours later is more like a mild concussion. (suggestion: turn down the light delay time or turn it off. Hit the stop button the second time if you're not going to hang around the car and listen to radio)
Anti-trap window alerts can result from battery disconnect.
Brake wear may be unrelated as the brake wear computation from past services inputs shouldn't battery related. You may just have reached the milage where the service counter system computes brake inspection is needed.
I have no idea why the naming changed. H6, H7, H8 are the batteries found in most Euro cars. They have the post set a bit below the top surface of battery and have the provisions for terminal covers. They also use the DIN standard anchoring flanges at bottom of battery case.
BMW and lots of others now use "smart" charging and try to set the charging based on use, type, capacity, and age of battery. The current monitor (BMW speak: IBS) on the cable end is the best way they can defeat some of the key off features if the battery drain as measured by the shunt says the safe current draw level is reached.
I personally dislike all the radio plays on and lights stay on stuff. starting the car and then immediately charging the battery with the alternator is just a pat on the butt (mild kick if diesel with glow plugs). Running a bunch of stuff after engine is shut down and not charging for hours later is more like a mild concussion. (suggestion: turn down the light delay time or turn it off. Hit the stop button the second time if you're not going to hang around the car and listen to radio)
Anti-trap window alerts can result from battery disconnect.
Brake wear may be unrelated as the brake wear computation from past services inputs shouldn't battery related. You may just have reached the milage where the service counter system computes brake inspection is needed.