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AWD, DSC, ABS Malfunction
Has anyone gotten the AWD, DSC, ABS Malfunction? Mine just popped up so I went to Autozone - no codes. Driving a 2010 MT BMWi xDrive wagon with about 90K.
But the symptoms are becoming more consistent: at initial start, no codes but immediately after putting it into 1st, the 4X4 warning goes off - coupled with an odd, stuttering and loss of power; after a min or two, it then goes into AWD, DSC, ABS Malfunction. The strange thing is after it signals AWD/DSC/ABS - it drives fine, under acceleration and braking. I'm guessing I have to take it to a dealer now. |
Check your battery and alternator before taking it to the dealership.
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Unplug your battery for 15+ minutes. Hook battery back up, start the car, and then clock your steering wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right. If this does not clear the fault then you will need a more in depth scanner to read the stored codes.
AdvancedAuto will test your battery and alt for free. |
Originally Posted by jadedj
(Post 1593927)
... no codes but immediately after putting it into 1st, the 4X4 warning goes off - coupled with an odd, stuttering and loss of power; after a min or two, it then goes into AWD, DSC, ABS Malfunction. The strange thing is after it signals AWD/DSC/ABS - it drives fine, under acceleration and braking. I'm guessing I have to take it to a dealer now.
My guess is, however, a bit more dire. The stutter and loss of power tells me it's trying to make the front wheels do what the calculations based on the rear wheels are doing. If the clutch packs in the transfer case are smoked it can't transfer the expected power to the front wheels and it thinks things are amiss. After a few checks and power cuts not fixing it, it probably spits out a plausibility error then throws the codes. Once it registers the faults and gives up on trying to make things work with power cuts it shuts down the clutches and no longer tries to transmit power through the transfer case so you're in 2WD mode. I expect this is why it drives fine after a few minutes. This is great except the lights won't go away. In normal driving, do you find yourself lugging the engine back around 2000rpm and letting the torque accelerate through the gear? That's what I found myself doing which led to a completely smoked transfer case (I bought with 90k, xfer case went TU at 140k). I replaced it then changed my driving style and got 30k on it before I took all the AWD stuff off and made it a 2WD car. Safe to assume you either take it to a dealer or independent mechanic? If so, that's fine, just looking to see if you have desire to do any troubleshooting or perhaps have access to ISTA+ BMW software. With it you can do a few actuator test functions without first having to buy a new one and throw it on there for no fix. Of course the dealer can do that as well but they seem to be parts change happy rather than troubleshoot (see sidebar below). If the test functions don't help I'd suggest a transfer case fluid drain next. You're at 90k and presumably original fluid. If you're going to keep driving it, you really should change all the fluids for longevity anyway. For about half the cost of an actuator or less you can get down to the root of the problem. If the fluid coming out is fine that points to functional clutches and you can then proceed with a fill, however if the fluid smells burnt or does not come out an actuator won't fix it. Mine was the latter. As I mentioned before, after another 40k on the used transfer case, I ended up taking the whole AWD drivetrain out to make the car 2WD. Long story but road debris destroyed my oil pan and that was the catalyst I needed to make the change. This leaves me with a spare good transfer case. If, after the troubleshooting above, you find you need a new transfer case and don't want to pay $2300 for a new one I'd sell you my 120k mile unit for a song. Or you can go to eBay for another used one - its' fine either way but there are less expensive options out there. Anyway, hope things are not as bad I think... Andy 07 530 ex-XIT 6MT Sidebar - my GF's 2013 335i 6MT was making "a noise" at about 47k. Since it was close to warranty and I couldn't find anything making the noise (it only happened at road speed so hard to climb under it to diagnose...), she took it to the dealer. Diagnosis? New transmission. The noise was barely perceptible. but, new transmission courtesy BMW! |
Originally Posted by amesser325
(Post 1593948)
As suggested above, do the power resets first. Easy to test.
My guess is, however, a bit more dire. The stutter and loss of power tells me it's trying to make the front wheels do what the calculations based on the rear wheels are doing. If the clutch packs in the transfer case are smoked it can't transfer the expected power to the front wheels and it thinks things are amiss. After a few checks and power cuts not fixing it, it probably spits out a plausibility error then throws the codes. Once it registers the faults and gives up on trying to make things work with power cuts it shuts down the clutches and no longer tries to transmit power through the transfer case so you're in 2WD mode. I expect this is why it drives fine after a few minutes. This is great except the lights won't go away. In normal driving, do you find yourself lugging the engine back around 2000rpm and letting the torque accelerate through the gear? That's what I found myself doing which led to a completely smoked transfer case (I bought with 90k, xfer case went TU at 140k). I replaced it then changed my driving style and got 30k on it before I took all the AWD stuff off and made it a 2WD car. Safe to assume you either take it to a dealer or independent mechanic? If so, that's fine, just looking to see if you have desire to do any troubleshooting or perhaps have access to ISTA+ BMW software. With it you can do a few actuator test functions without first having to buy a new one and throw it on there for no fix. Of course the dealer can do that as well but they seem to be parts change happy rather than troubleshoot (see sidebar below). If the test functions don't help I'd suggest a transfer case fluid drain next. You're at 90k and presumably original fluid. If you're going to keep driving it, you really should change all the fluids for longevity anyway. For about half the cost of an actuator or less you can get down to the root of the problem. If the fluid coming out is fine that points to functional clutches and you can then proceed with a fill, however if the fluid smells burnt or does not come out an actuator won't fix it. Mine was the latter. As I mentioned before, after another 40k on the used transfer case, I ended up taking the whole AWD drivetrain out to make the car 2WD. Long story but road debris destroyed my oil pan and that was the catalyst I needed to make the change. This leaves me with a spare good transfer case. If, after the troubleshooting above, you find you need a new transfer case and don't want to pay $2300 for a new one I'd sell you my 120k mile unit for a song. Or you can go to eBay for another used one - its' fine either way but there are less expensive options out there. Anyway, hope things are not as bad I think... Andy 07 530 ex-XIT 6MT I agree about ISTA+....This has saved me so much money in repairs. So much information in that program!!! |
Originally Posted by rkreimer10
(Post 1593949)
This right here is why i will never buy a BMW X-drive.
I agree about ISTA+....This has saved me so much money in repairs. So much information in that program!!! |
Originally Posted by jadedj
(Post 1593959)
With new battery in, left it overnight and all the errors are gone and have been since driving 300+ miles since. Keeping fingers crossed...
Troubleshooting these cars is one of the joys of owning them!!!!:P |
Originally Posted by jadedj
With new battery in, left it overnight and all the errors are gone and have been since driving 300+ miles since. Keeping fingers crossed...
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Originally Posted by rkreimer10
(Post 1593933)
Unplug your battery for 15+ minutes. Hook battery back up, start the car, and then clock your steering wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right. If this does not clear the fault then you will need a more in depth scanner to read the stored codes.
AdvancedAuto will test your battery and alt for free. |
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