All sorts of warnings displaying
#1
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I have a 5 series 2004 d se when the weather cools down I start the engine and within 2 minutes of driving I get all sorts of alarms going off, Transmission Fault, Flat tyre indicator, Battery, Window open,This happened the winter before last I had a new battery fitted and it cured the fault until about October when all these faults came back it continued all winter. Then during the summer I have had no trouble until now it's started again. If once the faults come up I stop the engine and remove the key and restart everything is ok till the next morning. I have had it in the local garage yesterdy and they have put another battery on it and charged me, but this morning it is doing the same. Has anyone any ideas what could be causing it. I only do about 150 miles per week in short journeys.
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
#2
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Obviously the new battery didn't help, so firstly, go back to those fu*kers who sold you that battery, ask them to put the old one back in, and give you a refund.
Secondly, try disconnecting the IBS sensor (these are known to go faulty). The sensor is connected one of the terminal which goes on to the battery (I think it's the negative one). It should just be one screw to disconnect it (the wire for the ibs sensor). Then see it it makes any difference to those errors.
Failing that, I would hazard a guess that it's your alternator, but it wouldn't have run for 2 years without packing up if it was the problem... or it could be the voltage regulator on it.
Do us a favour, unlock the secret OBC menu, and get to menu no 9. Monitor your voltage levels, and try and catch what happens to it JUST before all those errors come on.
Also, give us the voltage figures for
1) key in position 1
2) key in pos 2
3) key in pos 3 (i.e. while the engine is cranking).
Google or youtube e60 secret obc for instructions.
Secondly, try disconnecting the IBS sensor (these are known to go faulty). The sensor is connected one of the terminal which goes on to the battery (I think it's the negative one). It should just be one screw to disconnect it (the wire for the ibs sensor). Then see it it makes any difference to those errors.
Failing that, I would hazard a guess that it's your alternator, but it wouldn't have run for 2 years without packing up if it was the problem... or it could be the voltage regulator on it.
Do us a favour, unlock the secret OBC menu, and get to menu no 9. Monitor your voltage levels, and try and catch what happens to it JUST before all those errors come on.
Also, give us the voltage figures for
1) key in position 1
2) key in pos 2
3) key in pos 3 (i.e. while the engine is cranking).
Google or youtube e60 secret obc for instructions.
#3
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Hi
If you not get the error "enharced discharge" the IBS is okay ! , I'm pretty sure your battery's voltage is to low ( and for the new battery as well , not charged properly ) , so pleases try an let it charge the night over ( as minimum a 10Ah electronic charger for at least 8-10 hours ).
It's a knowen problem that by to low voltage on the battery , all these kinds of error's comes up by starting the car first time in the morning ( or after 4-6 hours standing ).
Did they reset the car after battery swap ?
By the way , AGM battery's is the only right battery for this type of car , cost a littel more but last much longer![Thumbsup](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/thumbsup.gif)
Std. BMW OEM batterys last at best aprox. 3-4 years , due to the big power consumtion these cars have !
Kind Regards
BenAnd
If you not get the error "enharced discharge" the IBS is okay ! , I'm pretty sure your battery's voltage is to low ( and for the new battery as well , not charged properly ) , so pleases try an let it charge the night over ( as minimum a 10Ah electronic charger for at least 8-10 hours ).
It's a knowen problem that by to low voltage on the battery , all these kinds of error's comes up by starting the car first time in the morning ( or after 4-6 hours standing ).
Did they reset the car after battery swap ?
By the way , AGM battery's is the only right battery for this type of car , cost a littel more but last much longer
![Thumbsup](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/thumbsup.gif)
Std. BMW OEM batterys last at best aprox. 3-4 years , due to the big power consumtion these cars have !
Kind Regards
BenAnd
#4
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Obviously the new battery didn't help, so firstly, go back to those fu*kers who sold you that battery, ask them to put the old one back in, and give you a refund.
Secondly, try disconnecting the IBS sensor (these are known to go faulty). The sensor is connected one of the terminal which goes on to the battery (I think it's the negative one). It should just be one screw to disconnect it (the wire for the ibs sensor). Then see it it makes any difference to those errors.
Failing that, I would hazard a guess that it's your alternator, but it wouldn't have run for 2 years without packing up if it was the problem... or it could be the voltage regulator on it.
Do us a favour, unlock the secret OBC menu, and get to menu no 9. Monitor your voltage levels, and try and catch what happens to it JUST before all those errors come on.
Also, give us the voltage figures for
1) key in position 1
2) key in pos 2
3) key in pos 3 (i.e. while the engine is cranking).
Google or youtube e60 secret obc for instructions.
Secondly, try disconnecting the IBS sensor (these are known to go faulty). The sensor is connected one of the terminal which goes on to the battery (I think it's the negative one). It should just be one screw to disconnect it (the wire for the ibs sensor). Then see it it makes any difference to those errors.
Failing that, I would hazard a guess that it's your alternator, but it wouldn't have run for 2 years without packing up if it was the problem... or it could be the voltage regulator on it.
Do us a favour, unlock the secret OBC menu, and get to menu no 9. Monitor your voltage levels, and try and catch what happens to it JUST before all those errors come on.
Also, give us the voltage figures for
1) key in position 1
2) key in pos 2
3) key in pos 3 (i.e. while the engine is cranking).
Google or youtube e60 secret obc for instructions.
#5
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Hi
If you not get the error "enharced discharge" the IBS is okay ! , I'm pretty sure your battery's voltage is to low ( and for the new battery as well , not charged properly ) , so pleases try an let it charge the night over ( as minimum a 10Ah electronic charger for at least 8-10 hours ).
It's a knowen problem that by to low voltage on the battery , all these kinds of error's comes up by starting the car first time in the morning ( or after 4-6 hours standing ).
Did they reset the car after battery swap ?
By the way , AGM battery's is the only right battery for this type of car , cost a littel more but last much longer![Thumbsup](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/thumbsup.gif)
Std. BMW OEM batterys last at best aprox. 3-4 years , due to the big power consumtion these cars have !
Kind Regards
BenAnd
If you not get the error "enharced discharge" the IBS is okay ! , I'm pretty sure your battery's voltage is to low ( and for the new battery as well , not charged properly ) , so pleases try an let it charge the night over ( as minimum a 10Ah electronic charger for at least 8-10 hours ).
It's a knowen problem that by to low voltage on the battery , all these kinds of error's comes up by starting the car first time in the morning ( or after 4-6 hours standing ).
Did they reset the car after battery swap ?
By the way , AGM battery's is the only right battery for this type of car , cost a littel more but last much longer
![Thumbsup](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/thumbsup.gif)
Std. BMW OEM batterys last at best aprox. 3-4 years , due to the big power consumtion these cars have !
Kind Regards
BenAnd
Cheers, Steve
#6
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Also, look at the terminals for the new battery. I had similar issue where I'd get a variety of warning lights, faults, etc. because there was a gap in the bolt on the (+) terminal which caused it to momentarily lose contact as I was driving.
#7
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You're not unlocking it correctly, presumably your unlock code is incorrect. recalculate it, using the last FIVE digits only.
#8
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Obviously the new battery didn't help, so firstly, go back to those fu*kers who sold you that battery, ask them to put the old one back in, and give you a refund.
Secondly, try disconnecting the IBS sensor (these are known to go faulty). The sensor is connected one of the terminal which goes on to the battery (I think it's the negative one). It should just be one screw to disconnect it (the wire for the ibs sensor). Then see it it makes any difference to those errors.
Failing that, I would hazard a guess that it's your alternator, but it wouldn't have run for 2 years without packing up if it was the problem... or it could be the voltage regulator on it.
Do us a favour, unlock the secret OBC menu, and get to menu no 9. Monitor your voltage levels, and try and catch what happens to it JUST before all those errors come on.
Also, give us the voltage figures for
1) key in position 1
2) key in pos 2
3) key in pos 3 (i.e. while the engine is cranking).
Google or youtube e60 secret obc for instructions.
Secondly, try disconnecting the IBS sensor (these are known to go faulty). The sensor is connected one of the terminal which goes on to the battery (I think it's the negative one). It should just be one screw to disconnect it (the wire for the ibs sensor). Then see it it makes any difference to those errors.
Failing that, I would hazard a guess that it's your alternator, but it wouldn't have run for 2 years without packing up if it was the problem... or it could be the voltage regulator on it.
Do us a favour, unlock the secret OBC menu, and get to menu no 9. Monitor your voltage levels, and try and catch what happens to it JUST before all those errors come on.
Also, give us the voltage figures for
1) key in position 1
2) key in pos 2
3) key in pos 3 (i.e. while the engine is cranking).
Google or youtube e60 secret obc for instructions.
position one 12.3v
position two 12.2v
poition three when cranking goes down to 10.8 then up to 13.8
Does this make any sense?
Steve
#9
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yep, it does. 13.8 seems a little low though, is it not more like 14.4ish? Immediately after startup, mines around 14.6-8, and only after a good 10-15 mins does it drop to 14.2-14.4. It never goes below 14 tbh.
Try and keep an eye on the voltage exactly when all the errors come on. That's how I found out that it was my alternator that needed replacing... (I would get a temporary voltage drop to 11 odd volts, i.e. intermittent charging). Also, it would take 10 seconds to reach 14 volts which meant there was a delay in the alternator starting to charge the battery.
Try and keep an eye on the voltage exactly when all the errors come on. That's how I found out that it was my alternator that needed replacing... (I would get a temporary voltage drop to 11 odd volts, i.e. intermittent charging). Also, it would take 10 seconds to reach 14 volts which meant there was a delay in the alternator starting to charge the battery.
#10
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I got it once, when I had a momentary lapse in charging (bad alternator), and the computer though it was a loose terminal instead.