kobolt60

Hi, uppdate

The other day I bought the BMWhat app and took a drive and ran a diagnose at same time.

I found 15 fault codes of various kinds but some concerning airflow and temp.

Just deleted all of them to see what would come back=excisting fault.

Non came back and the sluggish response I have had sinne my solenoids first gave sticky vanos symptoms and fault code. They are replaced.

It feels like a new engine with like at least 50 hp back home again 😀😀😀

So what has this to do with heat management, Well its running on 105 degC more frecvently in low speeds but not perfect is my feeling.

Some parameters concerning temps still looking strange.

I have ordered a USB-cable from Carly to be able to read all 69 ECUs that the BMWhat app should read. Now with my OBD II reader it connects with 32 of 69 ECUs. Im sure there can be more junk fault codes disturbing the performans.

I will come back If I got any news

Torgny 😎

kobolt60

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00020613_s100.jpg

So for some reason my heat management looks like this now pretty nice from my point of view....stable at 100 degC. .

But I dont know why....

Hope the Link works

T

alexanderxvi

I just wanna give an update to you guys.

This is what happened. My "new radiator" after 2.5 years started leaking again. The same radiator the started the problem with the engine cooling. I blocked the hose #12 and was driving like this for 3-4 months. Finally I decided to change it. I talked to my mechanic and told him about all the issues I've been having. He ordered me an original radiator from bmw dealer. He checked everything and couldn't find anything wrong, but the funny thing is with this new original radiator my problem went away. I dont have to block any hoses or anything like that. Also that might not be a good idea since that hose is supplying cold coolant to the transmission cooler. Anyway the point is if you have this problem and it started after you changed your radiator it might be the radiator causing it. I dont really know how or why but thats the only thing that was changed and my problem went away. My car drives better than ever.

soluon

Problem SOLVED!

Cause: Engine oil cooler dirty or Stuck
Symtoms: For almost 2 year, my N52N (e70 - auto transmission) was running low engine temperature most of the time.
- Below 100km/h -> Engine coolant temp fluctuates around 78 - 85 C
- Above 100 km/h -> Engine coolant temp around 95 - 102 C
- Low heat in heating mode (climate control)
- At cold start, engine temp goes up to 95 C then goes down to 78 - 85C
Condition:
- Coolant Radiator have been changed to new type (3 hole instead of original 4 hole), piping changed accordingly.
- No fault codes
Diagnostic:
- Have been diagnose many time with Dealer and indies...
- I have read most of the document, but find no clue
- I have read this thread multiple times and get valuable information from your.
- Try replaced thermostat -> no success
- Try block auto transmission Heat Ex pipe with no success
- Have the BMWhat app install and monitor the temperatures. I have noticed that while coolant temp is around 80 C, the engine oil temp stays at 96 - 98 C at normal load, at high load, engine oil temp stay at 102 - 105 C (long up hill). Coolant radiator temp is fluctuating normally according to speed and fans.
-> The difference between engine oil temp and engine temp is too high: 16 - 18C at normal load, up to 25C in high load suggests the engine cannot control the oil temp, that, the engine will try to run at lowest possible engine coolant temp to prevent oil overheat (fail-save my guessing)

Action: change the oil-to-coolant heat exchange. After disassembling the HE, try to blow into holes of the HE and can feel the largly stuck in both oil line and coolant line, which caused by long time usage oil sludge and coolant deposit. Changed with new one.

Results: now the engine run according to the Heat management modes and very smooth:
- At idle or cruising: 106 to 108 C
- At the urban traffic stop - go : 101 - 103 C
- Heat in climate control is now plenty and very comfortable.
Immediately after HE replacement, the engine run hot for some times, and back to low temps some times, suggesting that the engine need time to update the data map, and try to relearn the new condition (adaptation). After 3 days, the engine begin to stable to the new condition.

This is my case and just to share my experiences. I have given up many times, but managed to get back to this problem thanks to you guy in this thread. Thank you very much.

So.

richie281vn

Wow good to see another Vietnamese dude on this forum

soluon

Wow, richie, hello from Hanoi!!!

Pistratoaie

That's great news! And thank you for coming back to provide your solution. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future who might encounter these problems. I know how many times we've give up and then given it another crack
Good to have the cars running in the end

poisike

Hi all, i just registered here. I was searching for my problem in Google and this seems to be the only topic i found with two people with the same symptoms and same engine as my car has. This is going to be a long post so bare with me.

I have a 325i E90 with N52B25 engine and automatic transmission. And i seem to have exactly the same symptoms as Don dario and kobolt60.

Basically my car was stuck in 80°C High + mapped thermostat mode if speed is below 95km/h.
If speed is over 96km/h temp rises to about 93C. And it instantly drops down to 76-84C range if speed falls below 96km/h.
I have no idea when exactly this problem started or maybe i bought the car this way about 1,5 years ago (i did not check temps).

I have replaced main thermostat, no change.
I have replaced engine oil heat exchanger, no change.

So i could not think of anything else and decided to reset all engine adaptations with INPA. Engine temp instantly raised to ~110C and i was really happy. I drove around and everything seemed to work as it should according to N52 heat management specs. Unfortunately this only lasted for a few days.

Four days after the adaptation reset i'm almost back to where i started, but with a small change. Now when i start a cold car in the morning, temp rises to about 90-100C normally and stays there for about 30- 40m and then it gets stuck again at 76-84C range (if i drive slower then 96km/h).

There has to be a cause for this, so i checked temps at that point:
Engine oil temp 95C. This looks good to me.
Transmission temp 85C. This i'm not sure about. Is this too high for transmission? Could high transmission temperature cause DME to cool engine down?
Does anyone know whats the normal operating temperature of GA6HP19Z transmission?

Don dario and kobolt60, have you found a solution or do you still have this problem?

kobolt60

Hi

Well for some reason my engine have been running in the range of 97 - 103 degC in all speeds since october and I have monitored it every day. It seems to cool down when puching the trottle. During this time ambient temp has been -15 to 9 degC.

I dont know why its running warmer and I havent replaced anything.

The only thing I did 5 month ago was shifting to winter set of tires and I saw that one of the rear balance wheights was touching the left rear ABS plate. I know speed is one parameter which ECU uses to control heat management BUT its a very very long shoot. I will shift tires soon and we will see.... my guess is its will run cold when ambient temp is rising. .😎

Yeah remember I drove on Redline ST1 fuel additive and it runs smoother when its cold.

But in principle I havent got a clue 😈😓😎

T

poisike

Thanks for the reply kobolt60!

Thats interesting...
I switched to 19inch wheels last August. Larger diameter wheels probably cause slightly higher load for engine. N52 engine heat management is also load based i have read... Just out of curiosity, what is the size of you summer and winter tires?

I also had problems with rear ABS sensors last summer and i replaced rear reluctor rings to fix the issue. No ABS issues since.

Unfortunately i have no idea when exactly my temp problems started. It has been running in 76-84C range all winter (speeds up to 95km/h). I'm in Estonia, it's been -30 to +5C here. So it does not look like it's running hotter in cold conditions.

One more interesting coincidence is the fact that all cars (that i have found using Google) with this problem, seem to be in relatively cold climates. Maybe there is a special software for cold climate cars? Do You know when your DME was last updated? It looks like mine still has original (2005) software.