525 E60-Post Starter Replacement issues- doesnt shift, transmission failure and more
04-04-2017, 07:55 PM
#21
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My Ride: BMW 525i 2007
I didn't see any clip or a circuit board though
Thanks,
David
04-04-2017, 08:01 PM
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My Ride: BMW 525i 2007
Yes I have the same car, yes that is the crank sensor by the started, when you press the start there is slip second delay, any clicking when applied it the starter, where is it from? It is hell to get at, thats were quality parts come into play. Try to straighten the sensor tabs, it may not be the plug, you may have to remove the starter again ,but make sure thats connected. You trans issue sounds like some thing is not connected at the ahifter. There is a small circuit board that is for your ds mode, check the wiring in there. If your friend was in there, thats were i would start. The car will just crank with no sensor, it may pull a related code, but not trans. Unless your battery is weak and your car is not seeing the right voltage, it will throw random codes up.
https://plus.google.com/117536922304...ts/YZdA8arboJu
Thanks
04-05-2017, 05:42 AM
#23
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"Here is the pictures of what it looked like before and after it got broken when I tried to connect it back to the crankshaft sensor."
Oh shi_! No question you managed to break it!! That connector will have to be replaced. I'm sure BMW makes a repair kit for that connector, but are you up to it? Perhaps the best option is to splice in the pigtail assembly from ECS, with heatshrink but connectors. The pigtail option would require the removal of the broken connector, cutting the unneeded connector from the pigtail, splicing the 3 color coded wires together with heatshrink but connectors and plugging in the keyed connector to the CPS.
Oh shi_! No question you managed to break it!! That connector will have to be replaced. I'm sure BMW makes a repair kit for that connector, but are you up to it? Perhaps the best option is to splice in the pigtail assembly from ECS, with heatshrink but connectors. The pigtail option would require the removal of the broken connector, cutting the unneeded connector from the pigtail, splicing the 3 color coded wires together with heatshrink but connectors and plugging in the keyed connector to the CPS.
04-06-2017, 06:54 AM
#24
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"Here is the pictures of what it looked like before and after it got broken when I tried to connect it back to the crankshaft sensor."
Oh shi_! No question you managed to break it!! That connector will have to be replaced. I'm sure BMW makes a repair kit for that connector, but are you up to it? Perhaps the best option is to splice in the pigtail assembly from ECS, with heatshrink but connectors. The pigtail option would require the removal of the broken connector, cutting the unneeded connector from the pigtail, splicing the 3 color coded wires together with heatshrink but connectors and plugging in the keyed connector to the CPS.
Oh shi_! No question you managed to break it!! That connector will have to be replaced. I'm sure BMW makes a repair kit for that connector, but are you up to it? Perhaps the best option is to splice in the pigtail assembly from ECS, with heatshrink but connectors. The pigtail option would require the removal of the broken connector, cutting the unneeded connector from the pigtail, splicing the 3 color coded wires together with heatshrink but connectors and plugging in the keyed connector to the CPS.
I was thinking about doing that but at this point I would have to get heatshrink.
"I'm sure BMW makes a repair kit for that connector, but are you up to it?"
Do you think they would have to replace the engine wiring harness assembly?
04-06-2017, 12:23 PM
#25
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I believe the connector broke when you tried to force it in without having the proper keyway orientation. The proverbial square peg in a round hole, without the proper orientation.
"Do you think they would have to replace the engine wiring harness assembly?"
No, you shouldn't have to replace the engine wireing harness, $300 + item. When I said, are you up to it on replacing just the connecter, I was referring to disassembling the broken connector, identifying where each of the 3 wires would go in the new connector. The hard part is IDing the 2 outer wires, without a reference to the keyway orientation. Where with the pigtail assembly, you just cut off the extra conector and color match the three wires to the engine harnesses 3 colored wires, after you cut off the damaged connector. You can purchase butt connectors that have shrink tubing in place.
Example of heatshrink butt connectors: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...03?recordNum=1
"Do you think they would have to replace the engine wiring harness assembly?"
No, you shouldn't have to replace the engine wireing harness, $300 + item. When I said, are you up to it on replacing just the connecter, I was referring to disassembling the broken connector, identifying where each of the 3 wires would go in the new connector. The hard part is IDing the 2 outer wires, without a reference to the keyway orientation. Where with the pigtail assembly, you just cut off the extra conector and color match the three wires to the engine harnesses 3 colored wires, after you cut off the damaged connector. You can purchase butt connectors that have shrink tubing in place.
Example of heatshrink butt connectors: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...03?recordNum=1
Last edited by jtbgonesailing; 04-06-2017 at 12:28 PM.
04-08-2017, 02:13 PM
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I believe the connector broke when you tried to force it in without having the proper keyway orientation. The proverbial square peg in a round hole, without the proper orientation.
"Do you think they would have to replace the engine wiring harness assembly?"
No, you shouldn't have to replace the engine wireing harness, $300 + item. When I said, are you up to it on replacing just the connecter, I was referring to disassembling the broken connector, identifying where each of the 3 wires would go in the new connector. The hard part is IDing the 2 outer wires, without a reference to the keyway orientation. Where with the pigtail assembly, you just cut off the extra conector and color match the three wires to the engine harnesses 3 colored wires, after you cut off the damaged connector. You can purchase butt connectors that have shrink tubing in place.
Example of heatshrink butt connectors: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...03?recordNum=1
"Do you think they would have to replace the engine wiring harness assembly?"
No, you shouldn't have to replace the engine wireing harness, $300 + item. When I said, are you up to it on replacing just the connecter, I was referring to disassembling the broken connector, identifying where each of the 3 wires would go in the new connector. The hard part is IDing the 2 outer wires, without a reference to the keyway orientation. Where with the pigtail assembly, you just cut off the extra conector and color match the three wires to the engine harnesses 3 colored wires, after you cut off the damaged connector. You can purchase butt connectors that have shrink tubing in place.
Example of heatshrink butt connectors: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...03?recordNum=1
04-09-2017, 11:28 AM
#27
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My Ride: 530i base model
Model Year: 2006
@dakest thank you for the reply. Do you have the same car by any chance? (525i 2007 - E60)
The reason I am asking is because I tried to plug the connector/adapter back to the crankshaft sensor this weekend but it got broken (it was bent already). It was actually pain in the ass to find the crankshaft sensor in the first place.
Anyways, I found this connector on different websites https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...517567686.html and the connector looks identical to what I have it broken, but for some reason it says it doesn't fit my vehicle. When I called BMW, they told me that this time is not required for my vehicle. I'm completely confused. I mean, the connector is there hanging and should be plugged to the sensor.
Some pics I took - https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...D7DfIWuBNS0Mmp
I wonder if you know anything about it.
Thanks a lot again, I truly appreciate it
The reason I am asking is because I tried to plug the connector/adapter back to the crankshaft sensor this weekend but it got broken (it was bent already). It was actually pain in the ass to find the crankshaft sensor in the first place.
Anyways, I found this connector on different websites https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...517567686.html and the connector looks identical to what I have it broken, but for some reason it says it doesn't fit my vehicle. When I called BMW, they told me that this time is not required for my vehicle. I'm completely confused. I mean, the connector is there hanging and should be plugged to the sensor.
Some pics I took - https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...D7DfIWuBNS0Mmp
I wonder if you know anything about it.
Thanks a lot again, I truly appreciate it
If the connector on the engine broke just change the sensor, if it was the plug you could probably splice a new one, sorry I don't remember what it looks like.
04-30-2017, 05:25 AM
#28
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Just an update.
The car is fixed
So I bought that connector and my friend (he had all the equipment) cut off the old one and spliced the new one. We messed up the colors the first time and I already thought the crankshaft sensor was not a problem. Then he brought his code reader and it gave us the crank shaft sensor error code so we cut it off again and got the colors right.
It worked!!! the transmission error message disappeared and the car drives smoothly.
Thank you again!
Now, I need to get my steering angle sensor fixed. It should be less challenging to replace but more challenging to find a new one.
The car is fixed
So I bought that connector and my friend (he had all the equipment) cut off the old one and spliced the new one. We messed up the colors the first time and I already thought the crankshaft sensor was not a problem. Then he brought his code reader and it gave us the crank shaft sensor error code so we cut it off again and got the colors right.
It worked!!! the transmission error message disappeared and the car drives smoothly.
Thank you again!
Now, I need to get my steering angle sensor fixed. It should be less challenging to replace but more challenging to find a new one.
I believe the connector broke when you tried to force it in without having the proper keyway orientation. The proverbial square peg in a round hole, without the proper orientation.
"Do you think they would have to replace the engine wiring harness assembly?"
No, you shouldn't have to replace the engine wireing harness, $300 + item. When I said, are you up to it on replacing just the connecter, I was referring to disassembling the broken connector, identifying where each of the 3 wires would go in the new connector. The hard part is IDing the 2 outer wires, without a reference to the keyway orientation. Where with the pigtail assembly, you just cut off the extra conector and color match the three wires to the engine harnesses 3 colored wires, after you cut off the damaged connector. You can purchase butt connectors that have shrink tubing in place.
Example of heatshrink butt connectors: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...03?recordNum=1
"Do you think they would have to replace the engine wiring harness assembly?"
No, you shouldn't have to replace the engine wireing harness, $300 + item. When I said, are you up to it on replacing just the connecter, I was referring to disassembling the broken connector, identifying where each of the 3 wires would go in the new connector. The hard part is IDing the 2 outer wires, without a reference to the keyway orientation. Where with the pigtail assembly, you just cut off the extra conector and color match the three wires to the engine harnesses 3 colored wires, after you cut off the damaged connector. You can purchase butt connectors that have shrink tubing in place.
Example of heatshrink butt connectors: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...03?recordNum=1
04-30-2017, 05:27 AM
#29
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No worries. We fixed it. It was the crankshaft sensor. We actually managed to brake those CCV hoses as well. Got a new one and it was pain in the ass to plug them back in.
Thank you,
Thank you,
Sorry for replying so late, I've been swamped at work, I have a 06 530i, I don't know much about the connector as I had to get a small mirror to plug the thing back in, it got dark for me cause it was a real pain! I broke some CCV hoses too, I hope you didn't.
If the connector on the engine broke just change the sensor, if it was the plug you could probably splice a new one, sorry I don't remember what it looks like.
If the connector on the engine broke just change the sensor, if it was the plug you could probably splice a new one, sorry I don't remember what it looks like.
04-30-2017, 11:19 AM
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My Ride: ,retro sport button,comfort seats,m5 front and rear swaybars,pullbars,550 brakes kit with slotted and drilled rotors,upper strut brace,lower 2pt brace,3im,power box,m5 eom wheels,m5 rep bumper and skirts.
Model Year: 2007
Good stuff, my steering sensor went also, I looked into this, try cleaning it first as it gets dirty, clean with alcohol and reset. I ended up having the lock replaced as it wasn't the sensor. I found out that changing the whole column is the last resort. :
