masanca

ok guys lets see the car was fine until few weeks ago, I was driving sport mode and got the half engine icon on dash board and also engine malfunction reduce speed in the iDrive, park the car right away shut off the engine and after a few mins turn it back on with out any messages, next day again on sport manual mode happen again, so research online and change the 2 vacuum line in front of the engine, the ones that pass next to the oil filter but the same problem so I took the car to my bmw tech 3rd party service and after a couple of days they called and says that diagnostics confirmed, smoked engine one valve confirmed to have a bad seal, common rate fail and recommend replacing both converters to address the issue and then reassess which was $636 and some cents and I agree to also they run another smoke test and found no more leaks , so I pick up the car the next day and with a couple of days drove the car on manual mode and got the message again. so here I'am trying to find a solution to my problem, now if I drive the car in manual mode at not high RPM's the car will be fine with no messages at all, funny thing is that if I drive the car and D i can floored and drive as crazy with no problems whatsoever. any ideas? I'm also wondering if there is a computer glitch, I don't belied my turbos are the problem but if they are then I can get them for 485 a piece brand new from my local BMW

KyleB

holy run-on sentence batman!

masanca

What??

E60I

No Robin, we just need to turn down the frequency a couple knots. j/k :-)

For some crazy reasons, the subject line got me thinking it was a $30 OFF Coupon to Harbor Freight... :-(

OP: Disconnect the negative battery cable, let it sit for about 15 minutes, reconnect it and see if that would reset the ECU. Hopefully, that will get the car to run normal again.

Good luck!

masanca

I own a CRP123 scanner and i can delete the code with no problem, why should I disconnect the battery?? Im new not his issues

Booyaazaa

OP what is the mileage and year of your 535i? Disconnecting the battery has nothing to do with this code. You should check all of your vacuum lines which our there are about 13' of lines. At about 65k I replaced all my lines and found the lines to the vacuum tanks from the solenoids were all cracked and slipped off. Since the wg's are vacuum controlled this is usually one of the culprits of 30ff.

masanca

2008 535xi just turn 100000, and like I mention before they run a smoke test and found the seals as a issue fix it but still have the problem at higher RPM on manual mode ONLY

Booyaazaa

Ok 30ff is basically your car's dme seeing boost levels not hitting targets. There are usually 3 things that cause this fault code. 1) vacuum lines have degraded, cracking and/or collapsing under vacuum conditions. This will lead to wastegate's not fully actuating to divert exhaust gases to the snails. Also this could cause an issue with your DV's too. 2) a air leak on the charge side of the plumbing. If your mechanic did a smoke test of the piping between the turbo and Intake, you should be good. 3) the worst case scenario would be if you have the original turbos your WG are probably rattling which is a sign that either the actuator arm mounting point is elongating causing the rattling noise or the WG's are warped badly.

I had the same issues like I said and started with the vacuum lines since it was only $20 for the lines and 1 hour of my time. It worked for a couple of months however with 60k hard miles my WG were very badly warped and luckily they were replaced under warranty.

plowery21

Booyaazaa,
My 535 at idle has a rattling sound like a tin can. 67K miles. I have brought it up to the dealer under CPO and they said that was normal. Gave me the impression it was a heat shield rattling under the car. What type of rattle will I be looking for to diagnose the WG…if I can catch it before 100K i will make sure it gets fixed.
Thanks

Chad McCan

FYI, I'm facing the exact same situation as you, right now. I've ordered new boost solenoids and will replace them tomorrow. I'll let you know if it helps me. My vacuum lines weren't cracked at all, but I still replaced them.

Isn't it frustrating to have a BMW tech throw your money at parts "hoping" that solves the problem? The guessing game these dealers play has to stop. There are tests for almost everything. Just do the damn tests...