2008 E60 N54 Sport - Electrical issues
04-02-2021, 07:40 AM
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My Ride: 2008 E60 N54 Sport - 103k miles
2008 E60 N54 Sport - Electrical issues
Hey guys, I just wrapped up a job - fixing a serpentine belt ingestion through front-main due to OFHG leak. Removed valve cover, front seal, oil pan(lowered subframe), removed all debris from engine & pickup, then re-installed everything properly. Now having electrical issue that I 'believe' is unrelated to this job. The engine runs great, perfectly with no leaks. But I'm having the Christmas tree brake/ChkEng/DSC.. and transmission malfunction & limp mode. Also will not shift INTO park.
Codes I was getting:
5016 - EGS: Sensor supply voltage
2E7C - BSD data bus communications fault
5D60 – ARS Oil level switch
A0B1 – CAS input selector level position implausible
So I switched out the IBS, that seems to have cleared the BSD comm fault, but others remain. I also get
2E97 – Alternator.
Whether IBS is connected or not, it seems I'm getting voltage drop/drain somewhere as battery voltage quickly drops toward 11.8v after being connected and then the battery dies. If I start the car soon after installation, starts fine and alt charges in a range of 13.6-15.5v, or 14.00v with BSD unplugged. I've tried the different batteries, same results. I'm about to change the voltage regulator on the Alt as it seems likely. But this alternator was fine before the belt ingestion. Could I have fried the old IBS and Voltage reg somehow by jump starting the car at the battery? (No access to front of garage) If I did that, I'm ok with fixing my f**k up but I'm starting to get confused. That's not exactly the end of it. Last test drive it threw codes:
604E - RDC System
6057 - Wheel electronics rear right
So I was happy to see these codes as the sensor could be causing the trans malfunction, and checked the WS/ABS sensor rear right. There was a lot of dried up mud on the box and into the connector, which was also a nice find. I switched out sensor with used one from a junk car. Same faults after clearing codes. I THINK THESE TWO ISSUES ARE UNRELATED? The trans/wheelsensor issue and the electrical/alternator/oilsensor issue.
Back to troubleshooting the rear right wheel electronics – trying to measure supply voltage to the car side blue connector for wheel sensor. Key on, engine off. Getting nothing (0.2v max on each pin.) So I go test the same pins in front right wheelwell. Same, no reading both pins. So I think, does engine have to be running for supply to these sensors? So I try to start engine, but can't turn it over because this battery is at 11.8v again. I can put another battery on and start it, but I think I'm frying my batteries by doing this. And I'm not even sure engine has to be running for supply voltage at wheel sensors. I Want to get this thing back on the road. It does drive amazing when everything's working. Just looking for a little advice from an electrical boss around here. I just want to test the wheel sensors' supply voltage properly.
1) Other mentionable things. When first starting the car with old IBS and topping coolant reservoir, decent amounts did splash out while purging system with cap off. I noticed that right next to and below the reservoir is a pea sized hole that goes directly into the wiring junction box to the ABS Module, which is where the wires from wheel sensors feed into and connect. Not sure if coolant got in there but very possible.
2) When putting car back together, noticed that the brown ground wire from water pump plug was hanging disconnected. Pretty sure I didn't do that and it was like that for the whole year I was driving it. I just don't remember taking that ground off. I could be mistaken, I guess. But before belt job I could never get an oil level reading on idrive, and after job, I can. But have oil sensor code now and this battery/alternator voltage problem. I'm very confused..
Can someone point me in the right direction for properly checking supply voltage on these wheel sensors? Thanks in advance. I've been trying to figure out this mess for 5 days now.
-103k miles very clean garaged no corrosion-
Codes I was getting:
5016 - EGS: Sensor supply voltage
2E7C - BSD data bus communications fault
5D60 – ARS Oil level switch
A0B1 – CAS input selector level position implausible
So I switched out the IBS, that seems to have cleared the BSD comm fault, but others remain. I also get
2E97 – Alternator.
Whether IBS is connected or not, it seems I'm getting voltage drop/drain somewhere as battery voltage quickly drops toward 11.8v after being connected and then the battery dies. If I start the car soon after installation, starts fine and alt charges in a range of 13.6-15.5v, or 14.00v with BSD unplugged. I've tried the different batteries, same results. I'm about to change the voltage regulator on the Alt as it seems likely. But this alternator was fine before the belt ingestion. Could I have fried the old IBS and Voltage reg somehow by jump starting the car at the battery? (No access to front of garage) If I did that, I'm ok with fixing my f**k up but I'm starting to get confused. That's not exactly the end of it. Last test drive it threw codes:
604E - RDC System
6057 - Wheel electronics rear right
So I was happy to see these codes as the sensor could be causing the trans malfunction, and checked the WS/ABS sensor rear right. There was a lot of dried up mud on the box and into the connector, which was also a nice find. I switched out sensor with used one from a junk car. Same faults after clearing codes. I THINK THESE TWO ISSUES ARE UNRELATED? The trans/wheelsensor issue and the electrical/alternator/oilsensor issue.
Back to troubleshooting the rear right wheel electronics – trying to measure supply voltage to the car side blue connector for wheel sensor. Key on, engine off. Getting nothing (0.2v max on each pin.) So I go test the same pins in front right wheelwell. Same, no reading both pins. So I think, does engine have to be running for supply to these sensors? So I try to start engine, but can't turn it over because this battery is at 11.8v again. I can put another battery on and start it, but I think I'm frying my batteries by doing this. And I'm not even sure engine has to be running for supply voltage at wheel sensors. I Want to get this thing back on the road. It does drive amazing when everything's working. Just looking for a little advice from an electrical boss around here. I just want to test the wheel sensors' supply voltage properly.
1) Other mentionable things. When first starting the car with old IBS and topping coolant reservoir, decent amounts did splash out while purging system with cap off. I noticed that right next to and below the reservoir is a pea sized hole that goes directly into the wiring junction box to the ABS Module, which is where the wires from wheel sensors feed into and connect. Not sure if coolant got in there but very possible.
2) When putting car back together, noticed that the brown ground wire from water pump plug was hanging disconnected. Pretty sure I didn't do that and it was like that for the whole year I was driving it. I just don't remember taking that ground off. I could be mistaken, I guess. But before belt job I could never get an oil level reading on idrive, and after job, I can. But have oil sensor code now and this battery/alternator voltage problem. I'm very confused..
Can someone point me in the right direction for properly checking supply voltage on these wheel sensors? Thanks in advance. I've been trying to figure out this mess for 5 days now.
-103k miles very clean garaged no corrosion-
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