banglenot

Sorry for the bad experience, but clearly you know your repairs. Everything you identified are known problems.

Worst is oil cooler leaks>>contaminated belt slips sideways on idler pulley>>belt drops off at speed and winds around the crank pulley >>gets ingested into pan>>clogs oil intake >> extensive damage. This problem is called out on pg 17 of "So you just bought an E60" in the top sticky.

Make sure you completely clean all oil passages from the sucked belt, including all top end areas and anywhere else oil migrates. With pan off, flush up into cylinders to remove crap.

"The same mechanic that gave it a good bill of health also services her other cars." Effer should be ashamed of himself. Flat out lied to you about a major engine problem that anyone who claims to be a pro should have seen. Didn't see a sucked belt, eh? Sure he didn't....

Grace him with an accurate Google, Yelp and any other review site you can.

Good luck.

Ryengoth

I was trying to avoid dropping the windage tray.. *sigh* I guess I might as well double-check for shreds on the rods too. I have like 6" of clearance from my chest under this car. It's on stands at a "safe" height. Anyone wanna help fund a frame lift? LOL

The severely dirty oil filter had zero belt matter so I suspect the pickup screen clogged before any made it to the pump. The pump inlet is clean and I don't see any bits on the timing path and when it was running I did not notice any timing issue so I think it's all good. Are you suggesting I pull the valve cover too (oil passages up top)?

I'm just filming bits and pieces as I can. I have a pinched nerve in my neck right now and I can manage 10-15mins at best under it every hour or so of what free time I have.

http://youtube.com/user/ryengoth

banglenot

Yeah, regret to say I'd pop the valve cover. Not too hard to do (certainly easier than the oil pan) and a good "just in case" item under the circumstances (that pic of the oil intake is pretty horrifying). If it's clean up there that's a real positive sign.

I'd at least poke a borescope up into the crank area to see if further exposure is needed. The USB ones are cheap on Amazon.

Good news is that if there's no damage you have a very nice engine there with some solid grunt.

Ryengoth

Ok.. yet another freaking gasket to order and wait for from fcpeuro.
I have a pic/video storage boroscope. If it's used to inspect or rebuild an engine, it's somewhere in the garage.
I'll just drop the tray and look.

I'm pondering pulling a main cap to check a bearing shell for starvation. That said, if it's got starvation wear I'm not rebuilding this engine anyway. I'll probably scrap the car.

banglenot

Or find a scrappy kid who wants to drop a used engine in it for $2-3K

Ryengoth

I just love the super deep 10mm ground studs on the valve cover. Now, I have to wait for a 100mm long socket to get the cover off. What else "special" am I in for with this engine? I now own a BMW front seal tool, oil filter socket and wheel nut socket and now a super long 10mm deep 6-point socket coming.

donpb

I had to buy one of those for my n52 engine. If you know someone who has access to BMW TIS, then you'll know what tools are required. The long reach 10mm should be the only special socket required. Oh, wait, mine required an 11mm, are you sure you need 10mm?

Ryengoth

I have the full laptop suite. I guess I'm too lazy to dig through all of the useless special tools to find the ones I actually have to buy. I'm pretty sure it's a 10mm on the N54. If it's an 11 I'll be grinding some sockets down and plugging in the MIG. That is either A) an electrical after-thought or a service labor and special tool revenue generator.

Ryengoth

Windage tray screws, barely hand tight... I have a mind to install 316 screws with thread sealant.. this is BS engineering.

Ryengoth

BTW, the VC grounding studs are 10mm on the N54. A deep well skinny will fit if you use an extension and "just put the tip in". And the VC screws are steel but the windage tray and oil pan screws are aluminum.. Again.. WTF BMW?