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Quote:

Originally Posted by seanjordan20 (Post 1622577)

Your DME ZB should be 7623397 from what you provided. LM is 9203082, body module: 9176069, ALC 6934837, KOMBI: 9194887

Please post a pic of what you're seeing. I can't help just by reading because you're missing things I would use to search with.

Managed to get all modules programmed with my VIN except for the CCC ALC and Body Module were not found. One oddity is my CDC (CD changer) is no longer shown, and look at my LM. I cannot update it with WINPFK to fix it because the ZUSB is missing numbers.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...5fbe1d17d6.png

Did you input the ZB I gave you for the LM? That one will work and if not flash in expert mode.

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanjordan20 (Post 1622584)

Did you input the ZB I gave you for the LM? That one will work and if not flash in expert mode.

Yes, in fact that is the same number I already had programmed into it. When I go to re-program it, it is saying that it's supposed to be 7 digits and it won't update it because the current programming is missing the rest of the numbers. Instead of 9203082, if you look at my UIF, it is 9******. I will try and flash it in expert mode once the rain stops outside today.

I have never flashed in expert mode before, can you please let me know how to do that? Until now, Comfort Mode has always worked with WinPFK.

I am trying all of your suggestions, I plugged in every number you gave me. You made me feel better, because my numbers for LMA and DME were a match.

Quick thing: My K+DCAN cable mysteriously came back to life. I had it on COM 1, Max baud rate, latency 1 and I always check it. But it is working with BMW Standard Tools and ISTA-P again. Unfortunately, it is doing the same thing as my Super ICOM Pro N3+. It will read the car, read through all the modules, then a popup appears and the gist of it says "Hardware not detected, please hook up closest to the MOST connector" (basically it's looking for a ICOM B). I am using ISTA-P 3.72, I managed to find 2.55, which ironically is what ISTA-P is reporting as what my car was last treated with.

I will report back later, if I can get ISTA-P to work, my troubles may be over. If not, I will have to purchase a ICOM A+B so I have the correct hardware for my car. I have heard of people using a K+DCAN with E60 and even flashing things on the MOST ring with it using ISTA-P. So I have hopes an older ISTA-P may work.

I hope I'm understanding you correctly. You are using ISTA/P and not ISTA+ correct? Do you have ISTA+, if so can you post a pic of the tree. Also can you send me the screenshot in INPA F2 (Indent). Having a hard time figuring out your trans ZB. CCC doesn't get VIN

Hello,

I took the kids Trick Or Treating and the weather was pretty wet and cold, so I will get those screenshots for you tomorrow morning.

Yes, I have ISTA+ and ISTA-P. ISTA+ cannot flash E series unfortunately, because it reads my modules without issue. I will take a screenshot of my tree and F2 (full list) in INPA tomorrow. Trans ZB SHOULD be GKE211 AFAIK.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RS_06_530i (Post 1622588)

Looks to me like the CCC needs to be reflashed as it's in abort mode. Was it flashed with cable? 63 is a no no on cable. If there's anymore flash errors I'd have to see what the error list is so I can decipher it. Other wise it makes sense the CDC is red due to CCC/MMI in abort mode.

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanjordan20 (Post 1622613)

I flashed it using the Super ICOM N3+, I guess because there is no ICOM B hooked up to the MOST it failed. I was able to program and flash all modules except the CCC itself, 4 out of 5.

My ICOM A2 + B should be here soon, so i should be able to fix up the CCC using either ISTA-P or Standard Tools.

My bigger concern is my LM. The ZUSB somehow got messed up and instead of showing the number, it is showing 9*******, I have attempted to re-flash it with WinKFP, but it gives me an error saying it is missing digits. I guess I will have to find out how to reflash it in expert mode to fix it. I can still code it to factory settings with Bimmercode on my Android, so it is working right but just cannot be re-programmed due to the messed up ZUSB number. Not sure what caused that, I a have steady 13.4-13.9 volts with my power supply at all times whether I am flashing or coding my car.

First try with enabling force flash in comfort mode in settings. If that doesn't work then I'll let you know how to do it in expert mode. There's a lot of steps so forcing is the easiest way. I gave you the correct ZB previously. Let me know if it works out or not.

I'm not understanding the super ICOM. Did it come with a ICOM B option? If not, it just seems like a glorified K/D CAN cable. You can take 63 out of boot mode with just the cable and flash it. I just don't want to tell you how because of the possibility of bricking it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanjordan20 (Post 1622617)

First try with enabling force flash in comfort mode in settings. If that doesn't work then I'll let you know how to do it in expert mode. There's a lot of steps so forcing is the easiest way. I have you the correct ZB previously. Let me know if it works out or not.

I'm not understanding the super ICOM. Did it come with a ICOM B option? If not it just seems like a glorified K/D CAN cable. You can take 63 out of boot mode with just the cable and flash it I just don't want to tell you how because of the possibility of bricking it.

I have tried force programming in comfort mode, tried just picking "Update ZUSB" without choosing a number. It gives an error that there are not enough characters and that the "Parameter is erroneous". So I believe Expert mode is the only way at this point.

Super ICOM Pro N3+ is not a glorified cable, it is an ICOM clone that is fast, cooled well (has a cooling fan), and is the equal to an ICOM A, A2, or Next (actually, allegedly it is faster), Unfortunately, despite having a USB slot, you cannot hook up a ICOM B to it. It actually uses USB from itself to a laptop, PC, or tablet, and that is the network cable. It shows up as a Realtek Network controller, then you set the IPV4 to make it work. You can also hook into it using WIFI and still use all of the BMW tools. Hooked up, it acts as it's own network device and has proven to be much faster and very stable, so it works well. For example, it flashed my other four MOST modules without issues, my K+DCAN took almost an hour and failed on them.

It was simply made for newer BMW cars and older ones without a MOST bus, You can even hold in a button and use it as a device for Audi, Mercedes, etc. It can be used as a J2534 Pass-thru device for ODIS, HDS, TIS, GDS2, SDD, etc. You can also use it with Bimmerlink and Bimmercode, so it is pretty versatile.

I have heard all these tales of people using K+DCAN cables with E series and ISTA-P, so I was not aware that an ICOM B is required for it. Or I would have never owned it and went straight to a ICOM A2+B.