Dvirg10

Tried again with car today, reseated plug, (couldn't access to see if any pins were pushed back, was a quart low on fluid (guess I quit the first time when a couple drops came out but may have been pumping too fast) car actually ran really good for the first 12 miles. Pulled in my yard and went from neutral to drive then neutral to reverse a few times, it started jerking when in drive and reverse with the foot on the brake. Then the drive was rough like I experienced after the first time I thought it was fixed (bad jerking/shifting, slipping causing rpm to Rev before going into gear) finally transmission malfunction came on, locking it in park, restarted car and it let me drive it down my driveway. I'll post all the inpa codes, which are new since I cleared them today. A new code was cylinder 5 misfire,, first time for that. Any chance crankshaft position sensor could cause problems like this? The dsc codes came from wheels spinning while on jack stands and I know battery sensor codes due to me disconnecting mine but here is all of them

E60Japanese

Any more success?

Dvirg10

I haven't had time to try anything else since my last post. Really frustrated and not sure what direction to go. Considering dropping the pan and valve body to inspect the plug pins, figure that might be easier than dropping the exhaust and rear tranny mount.

Dvirg10

Update, I had it towed to a reputable indy European car mechanic, car will run pretty good if you take it easy but if you accelerate fast it starts jerking which snowballs into more jerking. The mechanic blames the valve body/tcu. Since car has 150k miles he suggests a new rebuilt tranny from zf which would cost around 5k, he said I could change just the valve body and it would fix it but it would likely be a temporary fix. I don't want to spend 5k on a car that's only worth 7k so I'm unsure which route to go.

E60Japanese

Are you in America?

E60Japanese

Send a mail to seanjordan20 and he can help you with advice on a repair center for valve bodies

We have both repaired our valve bodies and had no trouble since

And all for under $1,000

Dvirg10

OK so I finally installed a sonnax zip kit to go along with everything else I've done. I didn't reset adaptations because I had driven less than 70 miles since the first reset First day car ran fine I was driving it like a grandma, taking it very easy. 2nd day drove it back and forth to work with no problems (about 40 miles round trip). 3rd day car was running fine then stopped at a light and noticed the clicking sound under the gear shift knob then whatever gear shows on cluster D at the time started flashing as the clicking went on. Got home put it in park the the clicking got worse now with the P on the cluster flashing. So I went back to inpa the next day and reset adaptations again. Once again car ran smooth somewhat following driving procedure for after a reset. At the end of the day the car started that clicking and flashing again the makes the car jerk pretty bad. I'm going to try and post a video of the clicking I'm talking about, at this point I just need to get the car running right so I can take it to auction to unload it

jtbgonesailing

Dvirg10

https://youtu.be/3QEwN897CAs

Dvirg10

I've done that multiple times, they are posted above but I can do it again tomorrow