07 550i, Engine Stall, Running on less than 8
07-06-2012, 09:36 AM
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Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for some input. I searched high and low and can't seem to find any answers. I have an 07 550i, 6spd, with 76k. Yesterday it stalled at a traffic light, AC running, about 90 degrees outside. After a minute or two it started back up, and ran fine, aside a stutter or two. Today, driving in to work, after 20 minutes or so, it showed a significant loss in power, and was clearly running on less than 8 cylinders. It would intermittently start running normal. I was able to limp her home, and there she sits. Any thoughts?
I'm looking for some input. I searched high and low and can't seem to find any answers. I have an 07 550i, 6spd, with 76k. Yesterday it stalled at a traffic light, AC running, about 90 degrees outside. After a minute or two it started back up, and ran fine, aside a stutter or two. Today, driving in to work, after 20 minutes or so, it showed a significant loss in power, and was clearly running on less than 8 cylinders. It would intermittently start running normal. I was able to limp her home, and there she sits. Any thoughts?
07-06-2012, 10:08 AM
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Thanks.
I am going to try and read the codes this evening. And yes, the check engine light did come on.
I believe i have seen methods to clean the MAF.....will search and see if that is something I can take a look at.
I was also think fuel filter, but it doesn't seem a lot of people have has issues with this?
I am going to try and read the codes this evening. And yes, the check engine light did come on.
I believe i have seen methods to clean the MAF.....will search and see if that is something I can take a look at.
I was also think fuel filter, but it doesn't seem a lot of people have has issues with this?
07-06-2012, 11:02 AM
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Disconnect the MAF and see if it improves the idle any. I know I'm on a different engine (07 530xi 6spd), but my MAF is bad and the engine would stall without constantly revving it to keep it running. Disconnected the MAF and it fires up without stalling and idles a lot more stable instead of the fluctuations I was getting before. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, and although that improved it tons, the sensor is actually bad and needs to be replaced.
07-07-2012, 05:12 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I read the codes today, and got a p0335, crankshaft position sensor. After doing a little more digging on this, I just wasn't convinced that this was a true failure. And then I started thinking about the original battery in my trunk, and how it can cause wierd symptoms with the car when starting to go bad. I decided to go ahead and replace the battery, and lo and behold, the car seems to be better, atleast so far. I'll take her out tomorrow and see if the symptoms come back. I cleared the code, and it hasn't come back yet. I'm cautiously optimistic.....
I went with the Duralast Gold 95R-DLG from Autozone. It was an exact drop in. Specs matched perfectly on the OEM battery coming out.
Go Alonso!
I went with the Duralast Gold 95R-DLG from Autozone. It was an exact drop in. Specs matched perfectly on the OEM battery coming out.
Go Alonso!
07-09-2012, 06:53 AM
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My Ride: 545i 2004, SMG, Sport, Nav, Logic-7, Bluetooth phone retrofit
You're supposed to do a battery "registration". Practically, I don't know what it will do to the life of the new battery, but that's what "they" say.
07-12-2012, 05:52 AM
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Battery Registration - a few days after seemingly fixing my issues, the car needed a jump start, and on one other occasion would not start, and then did start 5 minutes later, I could hear the starter click, but no turn over. It seems as if the battery is not getting adequately charged, and/or alternator is bad. I have checked for codes several times since the new battery was installed, and nothing. So, now I am hoping a registration will cure my issues.
On a side note, I called Bavarian Performance Group in Winchester, MA, and they will not register a non OEM battery, seems silly to me. I already got grossly over-charged there once before, not thinking I will go back there again. Anyone know of another shop in the Boston area that would register a non-OEM battery?
On a side note, I called Bavarian Performance Group in Winchester, MA, and they will not register a non OEM battery, seems silly to me. I already got grossly over-charged there once before, not thinking I will go back there again. Anyone know of another shop in the Boston area that would register a non-OEM battery?
07-12-2012, 04:15 PM
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Battery Registration - a few days after seemingly fixing my issues, the car needed a jump start, and on one other occasion would not start, and then did start 5 minutes later, I could hear the starter click, but no turn over. It seems as if the battery is not getting adequately charged, and/or alternator is bad. I have checked for codes several times since the new battery was installed, and nothing. So, now I am hoping a registration will cure my issues.
On a side note, I called Bavarian Performance Group in Winchester, MA, and they will not register a non OEM battery, seems silly to me. I already got grossly over-charged there once before, not thinking I will go back there again. Anyone know of another shop in the Boston area that would register a non-OEM battery?
On a side note, I called Bavarian Performance Group in Winchester, MA, and they will not register a non OEM battery, seems silly to me. I already got grossly over-charged there once before, not thinking I will go back there again. Anyone know of another shop in the Boston area that would register a non-OEM battery?
Peter
07-12-2012, 04:22 PM
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My Ride: 05 E60 N62, DINAN AIR BOX, THROTTLE BODY, EXHAUST, STAGE THREE SOFTWARE.....19" MAYA STK 5 SPOKE W/PS2 255/35 19 AND 295/30 19, BMW REAR SPOILER(M TECH FRONT AND REAR APRONS COMING SOON) FACTORY EJECT BOX FOR IPONE 3GS, IPOD INTERFACE(OF DARN NO CD CHANGER ANYMORE) NAV, I DRIVE(I LOVE IT) JUST DID THE ILLUMINATED DOOR SILLS(2.5 HOURS MY AZZ) AND THE M FOOTREST, DINANA MATS, ADJ KONIS FRONT STANDARD REAR, JUST ORDER DINAN STRUT BRACES, NEXT MONO BALL AND CAMBER PLATES AND THEN OFF TO THE TRACK
From what i have been told, as the battery ages, the alternator starts to charge at a higher rate, to compensate for loss of charge as the battery ages. You need to have the new battery reqistered so that the alternator starts the cycle over again of not over charging the new battery
07-14-2012, 01:52 AM
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My Ride: 2004 E60 520i SE 2.2 Auto
From what i have been told, as the battery ages, the alternator starts to charge at a higher rate, to compensate for loss of charge as the battery ages. You need to have the new battery reqistered so that the alternator starts the cycle over again of not over charging the new battery
1) it has the exact details as the original/previous battery
2) wanted to program it given all the advice in this forum
Well, in the end BMW did not program it. Apparently the white batteries do not need programming, the car is not programmed to do anything about those simple batteries.
I called 2 other garages in London and I got the same story.
Watch this space.