That battery has 110 amp hours. So it will drain @ 10 amps for 11 hours.. or 5 for 22, etc..
You dropped 0.7 volts overnight, lets call it 12 hours. This is roughly 6% of the battery's capacity.
So over 12 hours you lost 6%, or 6.6 amps. This means you were losing 0.55 amps per hour.

So, long answer to this:
start with a high setting in your meter and go down. I bet you'll have to get it down around 50 milli to see what is causing it. Then start pulling fuses until you see the load drop off...

See here for some background:
How do i know it is in sleep mode? E60 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Fill in some gaps here if you want:
How to Find and Stop Car Battery Drains – DIY Car Battery Drain - Popular Mechanics

 

Oh - and yes, I would wait until it is in sleep mode when the light goes off.

But.... will it goto sleep with the hood open?

 

Thanks, .55 amps is not that bad i think. I will carry out the draw test once I get home. I will keep the trunk and door open in order to get access to the glove box fuses and trunk fuses, and keep the hood for last since you question whether it will go to sleep or not.

I also have a picture of DIS showing me errors when the car had the battery before this new replacement (when it was dying/died). Maybe this can help in pinpointing anything.



This is stressful for me and I am no where near experienced to diagnose this type of issue, sorry for bugging and thanks for the support!

 

image ru

 

Dunno - just changing the battery could throw a few faults I think.

Did you clear them all? Anything now?

 

I will check once I get home if it is not too late, I do not want to connect the car to the battery for too long because it seems to keep killing it. Will let you know when i can, Thanks!

 

You can open the truck and take a screw driver and release the switch to make the car think it is closed. Can you do the same with the hood?

 

Hey guys, so a little update.

The car is still eating the new battery. I checked with a multimeter and the amp draw was spiking and not stable . anywhre from 2-5 Amps which is terrible. I heard a relay clicking in the glovebox and when it clicked the amp's increased. I also unplugged the IBS cable, no change.

DIS also does not throw any obvious errors just under/overvoltage and shorts to battery when I disconnect/reconnect it.

I think I might have found my problem though. When the engine is off and car is in sleep mode (orange led near shifter is off) There is a buzzing noise under the hood. After close inspection, It is coming from the ICV (Idle Air Control Valve) When I unplug it, the buzzing stops, it also stops after I remove the corresponding fuse, and the amps drop to .08-1.4 after that. The DISA Valve also has a ticking noise at random times, but after removal of it, The flap is sturdy and works fine.

My questions now is, What are symptoms of a bad ICV? Why won't it stop buzzing, could it be electrical and where would I start looking, replacing relays or what?

Also, when I say the car goes to sleep, the orange led next to shifter goes off, but the Green led on the door panel for Window lock stays on and never seems to shut off. (Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be or something else is causing this)

Someone please help me on this. I am not sure whether the ICV needs replacement or its an electrical issue/relay that's preventing it from shutting down/buzzing.

Thank you so much.

This is the ICV that is buzzing.

 

I dont think the ICV is supposed to be alive when the engine isnt running...

Where are you located? Maybe swap it out with someone elses and see?

After a while when my 04 goes to sleep, I hear a motor noise from under the hood.. Don't know what it is, but if I push the unlock button I hear it again and again... Never investigated.. Maybe it is ICV closing or doing something? I cant imagine why.

 

Check out this thread, btw;
https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...-video-125992/