I think it would be a good idea for board members to share their past mechanical problems along with repair experiences in order to help other members avoid them.
My battery experience leading to the starter failing : http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=80878 One other thing I changed on my vehicle as it hit the 100k mark was the radiator expansion tank and the upper vent hose , also the top radiator hose. The expansion tanks tend to crack leading to a severe leak and possible over heating. If your car has 70k or higher you might want swap this out. My mechanic also informed me that the top vent hose of the expansion box is in bad shape. When I took my car into the BMW dealer for service they informed me that the top radiator hose was collapsed when the car is sitting for long periods of time. When you guys start your car in the morning take a look at your top radiator hose , if you notice that it's flat rather than holding the round firm shape it should have , you have a problem. The hose over time loses it's integrity or backbone and will start to become softer and weaker , leading to a collapsed state when pressure from the water is not running through it. If you have anything to share please contribute! Good Looking out! |
Originally Posted by .:reza:.' post='935598' date='Jul 7 2009, 06:01 PM
I think it would be a good idea for board members to share their past mechanical problems along with repair experiences in order to help other members avoid them.
My battery experience leading to the starter failing : http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=80878 One other thing I changed on my vehicle as it hit the 100k mark was the radiator expansion tank and the upper vent hose , also the top radiator hose. The expansion tanks tend to crack leading to a severe leak and possible over heating. If your car has 70k or higher you might want swap this out. My mechanic also informed me that the top vent hose of the expansion box is in bad shape. When I took my car into the BMW dealer for service they informed me that the top radiator hose was collapsed when the car is sitting for long periods of time. When you guys start your car in the morning take a look at your top radiator hose , if you notice that it's flat rather than holding the round firm shape it should have , you have a problem. The hose over time loses it's integrity or backbone and will start to become softer and weaker , leading to a collapsed state when pressure from the water is not running through it. If you have anything to share please contribute! Good Looking out! |
BTW I think people should post their specific models and production/model years
2006 530Xi here -The radiator hose was replaced at about 46k miles -Both front control arms replaced at about 48k mi -Few odd things, like the rear left window threw the "anti-trap diabled" error, but I reset it with (THANK YOU, RUDY!!!) the instructions from this forum and so far its ok, though it sounds like the motor has something stuck in it - I'll be doing a project on the door trim, so I'll get into that then and try to figure it out on my own. -Sunroof seals had to be replaced @ 46k miles what else? :think: I'll add if I remember anything else, but I think this is about it. In general, its a pretty reliable car, I'd say :thumbsup: |
This concerns many of diesel powered BMW's: Swirl flaps
Shortly: - Swirl flaps locate in an intake manifold - Swirl flaps are little flaps that remain closed <2000rpms, and open >2000rpms - The flaps may broke and be sucked into engine --> major malfunction obviously :getlost: - They can be removed before they brake - Removing will affect the emissions on low rpms, but this will not show up in annual MOT test - No other side effects are known (except the risk of breaking off) |
2005 545i
- lower radiator hose replaced due to leak @ ~40K miles - door seals on driver and passenger replaced @ ~40K (there was major tears in them from previous owner, i just replaced them under warranty) I think all hoses in the engine bay should be checked regularly and dressed with some protectant to keep them from cracking, etc. along with the door seals @ V_therussian: What happened to your control arms? I've been getting a slight vibration in my car on highways. I've had it checked out and I know for a fact that two of my wheels have ever-so-slight bends in them, but in the back of my mind I keep thinking about the upper & lower control arms |
2003 530 d, had to have a whole new rear window at 50k, the heater element was interfering with the radio
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2004 530i
Nothing major here, but I had a cracked wheel with run-flats. I think I bought my car with this crack, even though it is CPO. I only noticed when I got a new winter setup, and washed my wheels from inside for the first time ever. So - check your wheels with run-flats when possible! |
Originally Posted by kaiten408' post='935954' date='Jul 8 2009, 02:20 AM
@ V_therussian: What happened to your control arms? I've been getting a slight vibration in my car on highways. I've had it checked out and I know for a fact that two of my wheels have ever-so-slight bends in them, but in the back of my mind I keep thinking about the upper & lower control arms
+1 I'd like to know as well - I've been fighting a shimmy since the day I drove my 550i home from the dealership. To date - both front rotors replaced, 2 bent/cracked rims replaced, Front passenger side tire replaced (30+lbs out on the road force) and STILL have a shimmy at around 72mph. It goes back in on Friday for transmission slam (3rd trip, going to push for a new transmission), sunroof seal (2nd trip they said it was "normal" now I'm getting condensation on the inside), and the front end shimmy (5th? 6th? trip I've had trying to get it fixed). |
On all the E39 5's I've owned I've always had a slight shimmy and after replacing control arm bushings amongst other things the result has always been the same. The tires absolutely have to be road force balanced. If this is done (costs more than a regular balance - places like discount tire and the dealer should have it), it should fix the problem - it has each time for me. If this was already done and the problem persists, then there may be something else to cause it.
Keep in mind if you have a shimmy which is related directly to speed - it happens only at 60 or 70 mph, but not 50 or 80, then it is a wheel balance issue. If a suspension component has failed the shimmy should occur either always or more so at higher speeds etc. |
Originally Posted by kaiten408' post='935954
(Post 936131)
On all the E39 5's I've owned I've always had a slight shimmy and after replacing control arm bushings amongst other things the result has always been the same. The tires absolutely have to be road force balanced. If this is done (costs more than a regular balance - places like discount tire and the dealer should have it), it should fix the problem - it has each time for me. If this was already done and the problem persists, then there may be something else to cause it.
Keep in mind if you have a shimmy which is related directly to speed - it happens only at 60 or 70 mph, but not 50 or 80, then it is a wheel balance issue. If a suspension component has failed the shimmy should occur either always or more so at higher speeds etc. |
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