Parson

I find it very odd that my front thrust arm bushings are worn at just 31k on my 2007 550i, but the dealer just told me they need replacing at a cost of over $800, including an alignment.

So, I need a good source for rebuilt thrust arms I can buy so I don't have to figure out where to take them to get them pressed in. Or, someone help me out with ideas or instructions.

I've done suspension work on my Porsche so I'm not concerned about getting greasy or even bloody knuckles to tackle this one myself and I have the tools.

salaki

For H-Town roads, it could be bad in 31K miles.
In average, people have be replacing them around 50-60K miles.
I guess it's just BMW's crappy rubber meant to break after 50K warranty expires



Thrust arm? That's for E39.

On E60, we only have tension arm or wishbone arm (per BMW)

Which arm? #11 or #16?

If you are replacing the #11's bushing, you have option of just replacing the bushing (you will need press) or just replace the whole arm.
Make sure the balljoint is still in good condition, if not, replace the whole arm.
Meyle HD has the "heavy" duty bushing/whole arm:
http://www.meyleusa.com/improved_bmw.htm
BUT I had a HARD TIME finding vendors who carry the specific E60 application.

If you are replacing #16, there's no bushing replacement for this (you need to get the whole arm)
I used Bilstein wishbone arm when I replaced mine.
https://5series.net/forums/topic/103...1#entry1228785


There is a DIY posted by Toyota2BMW (I think) for #11.
If you've done suspension work on your Porsche then these control arm piece of cake.
Just make sure all suspension are loaded to the ground prior tightening the control arm bolts at the chassis.

I'd get Lemfoerder, Bilstein or Meyle brand.
There's a generic brand sold by FCPgroton w/ lifetime warranty but I don't know whether they will last.

Parson

Thanks for this info. My service advisor called it a "thrust arm" so he must have been applying 3 series parts names to the 5 series suspension.

I've got a sneaky suspicion that the tech was looking for work and the bushing may be in decent condition. I think I'll get the car back and inspect it myself. I hate stealerships and their book rates and thieving ways.

Thank you for all the information though. It will come in handy on the off-chance the tech wasn't lying through his teeth to make big money on a 6 hour book rate job that will only take him 2.5 hours.

I do have one question though... if it's #11, where would I go to have the bushing removed and the new one pressed in?

Parson

Anyone have experience with Dorman control arms?

toyota2bmw

Replacing the arm is a piece of cake. Much easier if you have an after market strut set up tho. If you have the stock struts, you will need to remove the struts in order to get the control arm up and out of the way once it is loosened from the spindle. With some help from a buddy of mine, the job was done in less than 2 hours with 2 beer breaks in between each remove and install.

salaki

Regular shop usually presses it for abt $10-$20 or so if they have the socket that is big enough to press the OEM one.

Or you can just buy cheapo press from harbor freight and buy big socket at SEARS and DIY

Make sure you tell them to copy the EXACT orientation of the OEM bushings. I think the OEM bushing has triangular shape that points into a certain degree. Need to make sure it points the same way after new one pressed in to avoid premature wear.

Also, need to check #11 ball joint too, it's so much easier/bolt on replace the whole thing but pricier.

Not sure on Dorman product:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...B3Ol2Q&cad=rja

carfucious

I just did mine at the insistance of the alignment shop. They claimed that an alignment would be useless if the arms were worn, true if that were the case... I got mine off and they really didn't seem to have much play. I cannot tell the difference between the before and after of this "repair". For reference, my "04" has 89k miles. I have seen other posts regarding the "control arms" and I am now thinking that might have been a better spend of my resources.

If you are replacing"#11" I wouldn't even bother with just the bushing, the ball joint is a wear item as well.

You're going to be in there anyways, you might consider doing all or nothing. With the lack of miles I am truly suspect. BTW, in my situation, I am trying to track down a vibration that I cannot seem to get under control.

AchtungE60

I noticed my driver's side bushing is cracked I'll be doing this during the weekend and I'll take pics and post up a DIY soon. You do not need remove the strut. You will need to compress the spring though. Wait for the DIY. I'll be pressing my own bushings too!

Parson

Just a note on this thread. I found no cracked bushings on inspection and neither did my indy mechanic who did a tech check on the 550i for a high speed driver's education course I enrolled my wife in with the car.

The stealership was attempting to extract $800+ of work out of me that did not need to be performed.

I have since fired my service advisor and the dealership. My buddy's had equally poor service from another Houston area dealership, so I have only two more choices for warranty work, both of which are a half hour away from my house and workplace. Grrr.

The advice given from a friend was good. If the tech cannot or will not show you the worn or broken part on your car, do not pay him to replace it because it may not be broken or worn at all.

Thieves and liars I tell you, thieves and liars!

toyota2bmw

Major fail!!! :thumbsdown: