I am in the middle of replacing both front upper control arms (tension struts). However, I could not get the strut to lower to 1 inch for taking out old control arm (ball joint side). The most I could lower is about 0.5 inches. I did not clamp the spring. Is that necessary to clamp it down to get the extra 0,5 inch of room ?

Several DIY in this forum did not clamp the spring and some did, which way to go ?

Thanks.

Ching-Ho Cheng

 

It's a lot easier to just remove the entire strut assembly. Three nuts at the top, one big pinch bolt at the bottom. Just be careful not to mar the fenders when removing the strut assembly. I've seen it done with the 'compressing the spring' method, but to me that's much more of a pain in the neck way of doing it. remember to replace all strut mounting hardware with new per BMW, all those fasteners are one time use.

good luck.

 

I got it done this morning. I was thinking about renting spring compress but it turned out not needed. I used a longer/bigger chisel to get the strut clamp open more. I could move the steering knuckle up/down by hand along the strut. Then I just pushed top of the brake rotor toward to wheel well and at then same time pushing it down. I got the 1 inch clearance immediately. Working on the passenger then became a much more easy job by using this trick.

Thanks.

 

There is also a socket that is designed to open the strut clamp. It has an oblong-shaped extrusion that is put into slot of the clamp along the long axis. When it is turned using a socket, it goes to the wide axis and opens the slot sufficiently to move the clamp up and down on the strut.

 

That tool is BMW special tool to open up strut clamp. I saw that in Bentley manual.

 

It's a pretty common socket.

 

That is great information. It comes with 2 sizes, which one is for E60 strut clamp ? Also,
is that common to have alignment done after upper control arm replacement ? My car exhibit a small left drift after the replacement. I am going to have alignment done soon.

 

I don't know which size it is (anymore). Usually alignments are done after most suspension work. Note that the alignment has to be done in the same manner as the torquing of the control and thrust arm bolts - ie with hte weighting in the front and back seats, and trunk.

 

I don't think any alignment shop event dealer would put weight on front, rear and trunk to perform the task. My 530i had alignment done in alignment shop before and it was fine after all these years. No weights were used on front/rear/trunk.

 

I like to use a simple crowbar/cats foot type nail puller. It is very strong and has a perfect wedge at the end where you would pry under a nail. Tap the wedge into the slot and it opens up nice and easy.