OEM Hi-Fi Amplifier retrofit after CIC retrofit
 

Finally installed the OEM Hi-Fi amp in the car today. Part number 65129166176.

You will also need the plug for the new amp.

Covering cap - 61138364862
Socket housing, black - 61138364882
Socket housing, grey - 61138364884

You need a bunch of contacts.
61136913612 - for the power and subwoofer wires
61138377162 - for all other wires

Don't bother buying the new amp bracket. The old Hi-Fi bracket works fine, you just use the centre mounting slots of the amp.

BMW changed the way the Hi-Fi system worked when they introduced the CIC. The Hi-Fi amp now powers all the speakers.

I built a small conversion cable to allow me to use all the pins on the old amp plug into the new amp.

To minimise new cable runs, I took some short cuts!
1. I used the old subwoofer inputs as the rear inputs.
2. I went from the amp directly to the rear speakers via the boot - easy!
3. I then used the old rear speaker wires as the front inputs, and then brought those back to the amp.
4. Then all that was left was to run 4 wires from the amp to the front speakers. Ofcourse I didn't go to the front speaker directly, I just went to the back of the CIC and connected them up there.

Hi.
I have just upgraded from ccc to cic in my e60 550i lci. I have 676 hifi sound system with a ccc amp in the trunk. After the retrofit, I had a problem with the sound just like others. I did the subwoofer fix by changing the locations of some wires but the sound is still not that good. I read that an oem hifi cic amp would solve the problem. So, I bought one with the connector but the problem is that I don’t know how to install it because my current amp connector is different from the one I bought. I wonder if you could help me with that. Attached is a picture of the amp I bought from an e60 with a factory cic sound system.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...b86aa9516.jpeg

I made a PDF that outlines the changes between the E60 CCC Quad-Lock and Sub Amp Connectors to the E60 CIC Quad-Lock and HK Hi-Fi Amp Connectors.

The Gist of this retrofit (installing the newer amp noted by the original poster), is:

• Understanding that the CCC Quadlock has a single set of low-level line outputs to the amp that then powers the subs.
  • The 8-pins that have speaker level outputs are powered by the CCC/CCC M-ASK.
• However, the CIC QuadLock has only full-range line-level inputs on the 8-pins that each need to go to the HK Hi-Fi Amp.
  • The amp filters ranges and outputs to the 6 speaker channels (FL, FR, RL, RR, SWL, SWR).

Hence:

1. The original poster took advantage of the sub level inputs from the CCC to the Sub Amp, and used them as the rear channel inputs to the amp.
2. He could have used the Rear Channel speaker outputs to create the front channel inputs to the amp - but these guage wires are better used for the HK Hi-Fi amp outputs to connect to the front speakers (they need to be spliced to the front speaker outputs behind the quadlock).
3. From this point one would need to run the line level inputs for the front channel(s), 4-wires, from the CIC quadlock to the HK Hi-Fi Amp.
4. Finish up by running speaker outputs from the amp directly to the rear speakers. The sub woofer outputs from the amp already exist - just reuse them.

Also, If you simply grab yourself a 2007+ (CIC) HK HI-Fi amp that comes with the pigtail -> you'll undoubtably have all the connectors you need, and can simply splice sections of the ends of the wires. Make sure you cut off the rear speaker connectors to splice them into new runs directly from the amp.

It's a mess of a retrofit if you don't have an understanding of what is there - and so I took quite a bit of time to understand what each system provided and then discerned how to best execute the retrofit.

The Quad-Lock Connector Pin Out:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...31c46b4e9a.png
The Amp Connector Pinouts:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...8ad496346c.png

I'll eventually do my own write up, if I'm not too lazy when the time comes (it's cold right now). So, until then - I've made some nifty diagrams to outline the E60 system's pin-outs; which are ridiculously hard to find - and when you do they are so spread thin and in such various forms. I'll provide both PNGs of each page, and both pages in PDF form.

Enjoy!

Thanks for sharing! :twoup:

@kirvedx
Great effort, respect for that.
Just a slight correction on your pinout plan for the 42 connector.
The signal input and the signal outputs regarding front and rear speaker should be reversed.

Thank you for saying something - I did notice that myself [at the time] too; I was quite exasperated at the time because I trusted my own investigation enough to go as far as zipping everything back together. I have a corrected version. but had never gotten around to updating it - I'll try to get that done before I forget again.

It would be fantastic if you update the insteuction to correct version. Im going to upgrade audio in my e61 from 2009 to hifi. I have CIC, and i've already bought every neccesery pieces SO nowbi need only free time and your help (updating insteuctions). By the way, BIG THANK YOU.

Thank you,

The wiring is mostly correct, just with regards to right and left, on front and rear - they are reversed. Not sure how I managed that mistake in the document; but after hooking up I ended up having to swap the wires. I found my document and have my 5-series charging. I just wanted to confirm exactly what I had wrong because from what I remember it was left/right (not front and rear) that I had wrong, but it's possible it was a combination. I'll also take a couple pictures of some parts of the install (specifically: 1. How I reused the rear shelf speaker's outputs from the old CCC Mask to both power the rear shelf speakers, and 2. The front speakers, and 3. Where I ran the 4 new lines to the front to provide the line-levels to the amp). Finally, I'll add a pic of the connector into the newer amp (which came with it, cut) and show how I reused it.

The sound difference was night and day from the old system; a huge improvement! You couldn't even call the state you're in before it "functional", let alone the temporary fix of sharing the rear-shelf's outputs from the CIC as "bearable".

I'll get that up sometime today or early tomorrow morning. It's a simple LibreOffice Draw document - but I just want to confirm everything as I said.

I will be retrofitting on sunday from pre lci hifi system to lci hifi system.
I will report back here once finished.

I have another situation. My current system is the lowest one-basic (without tweeters). So i have to build all necessery wiring and i dont have any old wires which i can use- despite from 6 speakers which are connect to the front of car (radio) however its not much helpful. BTW I've created this account only for this one issue, and im so glad and suprised there are so many replies. And sorry for my English, its not my native language.

So we finished the rewiring of the old hifi system to the newer version.
There is one problem occuring.
The the old sub outs were were pinned into the accordingplaces (pin3 , pin 4 & pin 22,pin23)
However there is no sound coming from the subs.
Also we noticed that the rear sound is much louder than the front sound.
Is there anything to be known regarding cic coding or else?

There could be some miscommunication due to a difference in my wording and your understanding. Let me clarify some things, and you can confirm for me if each is the case for you:

1. The Quad-Lock Connector on the CCC had only speaker outputs intended to go directly to the speakers, except for the case of the subwoofers.
   1. In the case of the subwoofers, the CCC quadlock connector had only line-level outputs intended for the small amplifier.
   2. The small amplifier sent the speaker level outputs to the subwoofers instead.
2. The Quad-Lock connector on the CIC has only line-level outputs that can function for the speakers (inappropriately), but which are each intended for the larger amplifier.
   1. There are 4 line-level input channels on the amplifier, coming from the CIC quad-lock: Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, and Rear Right.
3. The larger amplifier has 6 channel outputs: Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, Rear Right, Sub Left, and Sub Right

You should have performed the following process (which I did),

PLEASE NOTE YOU MUST PAY ATTENTION TO THE LOCATION OF THE PINS ON THE CCC QUAD-LOCK VS THE CIC QUAD-LOCK AS THE SPEAKERS MOVED

1. REMOVE PINS 1 through 8
   1. The wire connected to these pin locations are connected directly to speakers for the CCC, but are now only line-level outputs for the CIC that should go directly to the large amplifier; we must replace them.
   2. Label them as you remove them. You may cut them off, because the speaker-wires won't need the pins - so unless you have new pins to crimp onto the new wire(s), it works just as well to cut them and splice new wire into the pin-leads from the original wires left after cutting.
      1. Cut them a few inches behind the male pins, so that you will be able to splice new wire into them ( you'll label the new wire you splice into them by the CIC diagram, but remember to label the old existing remaining wire by the CCC diagram as you go).
   3. When you remove the rear speaker's wires from the quad-lock, go ahead and pull the pins right out (you'll still need to cut them off to splice the rear speaker's wires into the front speaker's wires).
      1. You will be using the sub-woofer's line-level channel outputs from the CCC quadlock and moving them to the rear speaker pin positions. You won't need to cut those, they can be removed and pushed right back into the quad-lock at the rear speaker's locations (sub-left to rear-left and sub-right to rear-right).
2. REMOVE PINS 31, 32, 37, 38
   1. These wires are the sub-woofer's line-level outputs to the small amplifier. We will re-purpose them (as mentioned in 1.3.1) as the rear channel line-level outputs to the larger amp (they have thicker insulation, better to remove noise).
   2. Label these as you remove them
3. MOVE old wire+pin 31 (sub-left + by CCC) to pin location 4 (rear-left + by CIC), and wire+pin 38 (sub-left - by CCC) to pin location 8 (rear-left - by CIC)
4. MOVE old wire+pin 32 (sub-right + by CCC) to pin location 1 (rear-right + by CIC), and wire+pin 37 (sub-right - by CCC) to pin location 5 (rear-right - by CIC)
5. SPLICE old wire from pin location 7 (rear-left -) to old wire from pin location 8 (front-left -), and old wire from pin location 3 (rear-left +) to old wire from pin location 4 (front-left +). The rear left speaker now is spliced into the front left speaker (this is correct!).
6. SPLICE old wire from pin location 6 (rear-right -) to old wire from pin location 5 (front-right -), and old wire from pin location 2 (rear-right +) to old wire from pin location 1 (front-right +). The rear right speaker now is spliced into the front right speaker (this is correct!).
7. SPLICE new wire onto old wire+pin in pin location 7 (front-left - by CIC), and another onto old wire+pin in pin location 3 (front-left + by CIC). This is your new front-left line-level output to run to the new larger amplifier.
8. SPLICE new wire onto old wire+pin in pin location 6 (front-right - by CIC), and another onto old wire+pin in pin location 2 (front-right + by CIC). This is your new front-right line-level output to run to the new larger amplifier.
9. RUN the 4 new wires behind the CIC, above the panel under the steering wheel and along the main wiring harness as it runs to the driver's side, entering the floor molding back by the LMA and running it all the way back by the rear seat. Leave some feet of slack (you could actually run this wire from the trunk, up to the CIC - as I did).
10. You are now done in the Quad-Lock Connector
    1. Verify you have moved any other pins needed such as power, ground, remote, video/tv, etc.
    2. When done, close up the CIC, put dash back together. I highly recommend soldering your wires and using heat shrink tubing. Make professional splices!
11. POP the molding on the floor side of the driver's side rear seat, to expose the main wiring harness before it enters into the wire guard that brings it into the trunk.
    1. NOTE: IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU TAKE YOUR TIME TO FIND THE RIGHT WIRES. PLEASE EXAMINE THE WIRES CONNECTING TO THE SPEAKERS ON THE REAR SHELF FIRST - NOTE THE COLORS
    2. Locate the wires you noted were connected to the rear speakers, all 4 of them (left +/-, right +/-) and, looking at the rear seats length from seat back to seat front, cut them at the mid-way point (label them!).
    3. Run 8 new wires from the trunk to the mid-way point along-side the rear seat where you cut the rear speaker wires and splice the new wires into them. label them in the trunk:
       1. ​​​​​​​4 will connect to the remainder that goes to behind the CIC, and will become the front speaker wires (left and right +/-).
       2. 4 will connect to the remainder that goes to the rear speakers in the rear shelf (left and right +/-).
       3. In both cases, the 8 new wires will connect directly to the new amplifier.
12. ​​​​​​​I bought a used newer larger amplifier that still had its main connector with a 6-inch lead of a pig-tail left. I then spliced every wire I ran back according to the diagram:​​​​​​​
    1. ​​​​​​​The wires prepped in steps 3 and 4 became the Rear Channel Inputs on the new amplifier
    2. The wires prepped in steps 7 through 9 became the Front Channel Inputs on the new amplifier
    3. The wires prepped in 10.3.2 were connected to the Rear Channel Outputs on the new amplifier
    4. The wires prepped in step 10.3.1 were connected to the Front Channel Outputs on the new amplifier
    5. I moved the wires that went directly to the subwoofers from the old amp connector to the right places on the new amp connector:
       1. CUT wire at pin location ​​​​​​​8 (sub-left + by CCC amp) and SPLICE it into wire+pin at pin location 4 on gray connector (sub-left + by CIC amp)
       2. CUT wire at pin location 18 (sub-left - by CCC amp) and SPLICE it into wire+pin at pin location 3 on gray connector (sub-left - by CIC amp)
       3. CUT wire at pin location 6 (sub-right + by CCC amp) and SPLICE it into wire+pin at pin location 22/1 on black connector (sub-right + by CIC amp)
       4. CUT wire at pin location 16 (sub-right - by CCC amp) and SPLICE it into wire+pin at pin location 23/2 on black connector (sub-right - by CIC amp)
13. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​You are now done.

Let me know if you are at this same point. I am sorry I didnt upload the changes yet, I do remember that I had to swap left to right on the front and/or back - and its quite possible that I had a input/output pair in reverse as well;

I have my 530xi opened up so I can see the system, I'll try to verify the connections (I labelled everything using heat shrink tubing) at the connectors to ensure positions and get that uploaded today with some pictures.

Thank you for the detailed write up.

I understood the concept of this retrofit using the pre existing wiring.

Knowing my way around wiring diagrams this was not hard to do.

Unfortunately, mistakes here and there happen.

Long and behold i managed to get it working. I had mistakenly left front speakers connected to cic instead of connecting them to the 4 wires i had drawn from the amp output to the front which lead to a poor soundstage.

Instead i had connected the the 4 wires to the rear input signal which created a loop canceling out the subs. So basically i had front output connected to rear input.

As the solution i pulled the front speaker wires out the cic and connected them to the 4 output wires and put the rear in wires back to the cic so it delivered the pre amp signal to the amp.
Now everything works as it should.Fader and Balance adjustments were confirming the correct connection of all wiring.

So if you made it according to instructions and you find there are some mistakes and you solved it - can you finaly share with me which wires were connected wrong and how it should be? I mean for example front right in cic AMP is at pin 8 not 6, or something like that. Im going to do it next week

In case you did not retrofit it up to now.
The wiring plan provided by kirvedx is accurate but only front l+r Input has to be switched with front l+r output.
Just chnge the IN with OUT.
The mistakes i made were due to my own misreading of the plan. I rechecked and noticed the that i did not wire it like in the plan.
So if you change the mentioned error and tick to kirvedx plan you ll be fine.

Thank you by Fast answer. So the last question, despite its logical, but lets make it 100% easy to understand for my and for another People who will be doing it with this instruction in the future- i have to change input and output in amplifer (both side of front speakers). So left should be still left however Just change in with out (+ and - are correct) and the same in the other side?

If i understand it correct Just answer Yes, Thank you again

Yes, you got it right.
In this thread there is also a picture of the original ssp for the hifi amp.
If you recheck kirvedx plan with the original plan and focus on the front in & out you ll notice the error.

Hi, one more question. Do you know where are connected wires from subwoofers in base audio system in e61 with CIC? If i have cic a see that there are only 8 outputs from cic to speakers- front and rear. Whats with subwoofers?

The subwoofers are filtered off of the Low Level Line Input by the amp. The same Low Level Line Inputs feed the rear speakers and the subwoofers; so the output to the rear speakers and the subwoofers are from the amplifier - not the CIC itself. The CIC only outputs Line Level outputs that serve as inputs to the amplifier - that then filters them into the lows mids and highs that the amp needs and powers the signals to the appropriate speakers.

Thank you, but you didnt understand me. Currently i have the original cic with basic audio. There are speakers in the front, rear and subwoofers and Currently all of them are connected to radio. The issue is that i see in your picture that there are only 8 outputs from cic (i know that your picture is correct for hifi system level, and that they are connected to amplifer which separate it to all speakers- front rear and subs). But my question is- do you maybr know where are connected subs in my current audio system- basic? Are there in the same place as in ccc- 31 32 37 and 38 or in some other place ar maybe they are connected to another speakers (as tweeters)?

If you have factory subwoofers installed you don't have a basic audio system, you have either HiFi, Top HiFi or Personal M Audio System.

Basic is only front and rear speakers, HiFi is basic on old enough American E series, but it's still considered HiFi and differentiated from basic or Top HiFi.

So when programmed for the codes that indicate basic, the CIC will power the 4 basic speakers directly, but if you have a factory subwoofer and the newer HiFi amp - you don't want it coded for that. In any other coding the CIC outputs 2 line level channels via 8 wires and does not power any speakers directly. The outputs ironically can still power the front speakers and the rear shelves, but if you can't tell, you're not getting very good sound...they are only line level outputs.

In the older E Series CCC HiFi (i.e. American "basic") system the CCC powers the front and rears directly, including the tweeters (the crossover is built into the speakers), but has a tiny little amplifier mounted in the trunk that powers the subwoofers, the outputs for the line level that goes to the amp in one of the smaller connectors coming out of the quad-lock. You can see that in my diagram.

In Top HiFi and in the CIC for any system with factory subwoofers, there's an amp that powers all speakers, so those 8 wires are just the line outputs to the amp, the speakers are then powered from the amp, the subwoofers included; the subwoofers are filtered via crossover in the amp from the rear channel CIC line outputs, the rear shelf speakers are on a higher frequency filtered off of the same rear channel CIC line output, the fronts are unfiltered from the front channel CIC line output.

So no matter how you look at it, there's never wires going from the CIC to the subwoofers, if you are coming from a CCC that was a non-american basic system there were no subwoofers, but because you're using a CIC now you don't need the subwoofer line outs anyways because the subwoofers are powered by the amp as always - and take their input from the rear channel the same as the amp does for the rear shelf speakers. If you had a factory subwoofer with your CCC and upgraded to a CIC, you don't have a use for the subwoofer output from the quad-lock other than to repurpose them as line outputs or as the connecting portions to the front speakers from the amp. You will need to buy the proper newer HiFi amp to power all speakers, subs included.

If you had a basic CIC and added subwoofers and want to power them, you need the amp to do it properly, though there is a way to do it with the old amp by splicing them into the rear channel outputs - you can easily find that guide by searching for "subwoofer fix CCC to CIC retrofit"

I can be more precise with explaining your current situation if you specify what you had before the CIC, and why you're configuring it as basic now. Unfortunately, without the original CCC HIFI amp, you'll hardly get anything out of the subs even crossing the outputs with the rear speakers due to a lack of power to drive them - and they will get distorted and sound almost inaudible due to the inclusion of higher frequencies. You can get some basic functionality out of them if you have the older amp, but it's nothing compared to when you properly retrofit the newer HiFi amp.

Ok, so im gonna to describe everything.

I bought the car from 2009. Its e61. Its the European version- i live in Europe. Acording to my knowledge it has the basic audio. Why? It has no tweeters in front and rear of car. My car has cic and its factory - original. I have no amplifer in the left back side of my car. Whats more im sure it has subwoffers under front seat but to be honest i didnt check it because i was sure they are there- now im confused.

I attached the Photo of used complete hifi wires to CCC which i bought and which is modiffed by me. I prepeard it to instal to cic- i bought every necesery pieces and make it ready to fit to new hifi cic AMP which i also bought.

Whats more i bought hifi speakers (blue rear wrap) and i change them in the back (roof) and front doors.

Now i only have to instal wires and amplifer. However i was sure there are subwoffers and i didnt know how are they connected because the are not enough outputs in my cic. If there arent subwoffers everything is fine and correct i Just need to modiffe my wires and add some cables because i dont have cables from cic to subs.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...6eb98a6643.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...74e9d90bd5.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...bcd75eb58c.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...e8da18a1d9.jpg

I checked it and Yes i have subwoofer under seat, ale acording to VIN code i dont have any additional audio versions so its basic. So there are probably diffrences beacouse of europe/US version

The only possibly way that you could have sub-woofers installed from factory, while all the remaining speakers are connected and powered directly to/by the CIC, are if you somehow had the CCC subwoofer amp installed due to the year-model of the car (it was late enough in 2009 to come with CIC, but wasn't LCI and still was candidate for CCC components). In such a case, there must be an amplifier for the subwoofer mounted under the panel covering the left wall adjacent to the tail lights in your trunk space. It would be mounted against the body of the car. It will look like a heat sink the size of a pack of cigarettes (it's really very small). It's possible (I'm not familiar with RHD nor do I know if they reverse some things when they produce LHD variants; but if so, it is possible yours is mounted on the rear right side as on my American LHD model it is mounted on the side of the steering wheel, the driver's side, or the left side). It would receive its low-pass line-level audio signal from quad-lock wires 31 32 37 and 38.

However, from what I understand about the E-Series and the CCC/CIC configurations - the CIC did not ship with the CCC sub-woofer amp. Furthermore, if it's not American, there're no tweeters, and the speakers are driven by the unit directly - it is definitely the basic audio system and is definitely the system that does not come with sub-woofers. This does not mean that someone did not install them before you bought the car; and you would have to trace from the speakers to see how they are hooked up, if they are at all hooked up. If hooked up by OEM means then somebody installed the amp somewhere, and wired it from the appropriate wires in the quad-lock (31 32 37 and 38), ideally.

It is very easy to believe that a BMW audio system has sub-woofers installed; even from the Basic system - which does not have sub-woofers. You would have unmistakable certainty from feeling your butt thumping in your driver's seat; same for the passenger. Furthermore, if you put your hand on the passenger's seat while playing something that thumps, you'd have unmistakable proof from feeling the hit on your palm. You can try to go full rear in audio settings, crank bass, and turn it up; if you feel direct hitting from the seat tops in the front; there are likely subs and you might need to trace from them if you do not see lines in quad-lock 31 32 37 and 38. It's possible someone spliced into the rears by the rear seat or somewhere along the line, pulled line signals from them using a converter, and installed their own amp (sorry if so, that's very tacky...). It's possible someone line converted at the back and installed an amp properly... etc, etc.

The most surefire way to know is to check under one of the front seats. With no amp in the back, and no wires coming from 31 32 37 and 38, you certainly do not have sub-woofers from factory; not with a basic audio system.

Here's how they were configured:

Basic
Front Door and Rear Shelf speakers, no tweeters, powered by CCC/CIC; No sub-woofers.

HiFi (American Basic)
Front window tweeters, Front door speakers, Rear Shelf Speakers with tweeters included. Sub-woofers under front seats.Top HiFi
CCC/CIC This is the Logic7 sound system. All audio signals are digital and are provided to the rear amplifier, which powers all 10 speakers, via the MOST bus.

M-Personal Audio
The hail mary of factory sound systems. It's DSP (same as Top HiFi) but has a much better amp, much better speakers, much better sound.

I did all manner of research on this historically and I don't recall there being sub-woofers on the basic version. Someone must have installed them after production - or I'm mistaken, but I'd bet on the former. Are you the original owner?

If the subs were not retrofit via CCC subwoofer amp, you'll just have to trace from the woofers unfortunately and see how they're installed.

There are other audio applications in these vehicles - TV systems, etc. There might have been other options that got you the sub-woofers than just the CCC/CIC systems; but I did not research very thoroughly there (only a little bit in troubleshooting my reverse camera on my 09 E70 post CIC install). I did my research, and the documents, for my 2006 E60.

I checked it, when i turn off the rear speakers subs play however when i turn of front speakers they dont play. So its Little more job than i thought because i have to check end eventualy eliminate mistakes made by someone

@Tomurka did you solve the issue with the subs? I didn't had a look yet at my car, but I'm pretty confident that I read everywhere that the basic audio system has installed 6 speakers: two in the doors, two in the rear and two sub below the seats. Nonetheless I couldn't find any wiring diagram for that particular configuration.

Any additional tips?

I'm looking forward to also install hifi completely from scratch, but I'm still collecting information where to put all the cables etc.

Hi! Yes i finished it a few months ago. Now everything is fine. Every diagram and necessery things are here so Just read and you will know everything.

What can i say more? Acording to my car, there are diffrences usa/Europe. I dont know were are you from but most People here are from USA, hovewer im from Poland (Europe) . I checked my cars VIN and i have basic audio. Hovewer in my car i had 6 stock speakers as a basic audio. I have stock CIC (my car is 2009 e61). Whats interesting cic have of course 4 pairs of outputs to speakers (+ and - which gives 8 single wires). 2 of them are for back speakers, and 2 of them (stock, much bigger wire) were in my car to front speakers and subs. As you can see there are some diffrences. I solved everything- from basic audio with cic and 6 speakers (2 front, 2 back, 2 subs, no amplifer) to full hifi after lifting (big HK amplifer, 4 speakers at front, 4 speakers at back, and 2 subs- all speakers from hifi version, with blue sticker.

​​​​​ I also made all what i can to make it as close to stock as its posibble. Its a lot of job however now it Look like made by bmw

I attached some photos which i made while working with my bmw. Maybe some of them will be helpful to you.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...8f0e7294d1.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...eee3fc1cec.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...c9510a4c7d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/5series...8efeb3f07a.jpg
​​​​​​

Thanks for the quick response! My car is also a european version. According to VIN check mine matches your (audio) configuration.

Finally someone with an E61 - I have one question that no one could ever answer me. Maybe you can help out. Where do the wires run for the rear speakers (in the roof)? I'm asking myself if the wire runs at the roof to the front, down at the A-pillar - or e.g. down at C-Pillar and then at the bottom/side of the car to the front.
Resp. what's the best place to pick them up so that I can connect the speakers to the amp without splicing the rear's speaker cables very close to the CIC.

So on this one:

So how does the wire run? First from CIC to front speaker, connecting to the door's connector (I think it's X257 on the driver's site) and from there moving on the subs? Or is that a y-cable anyways (one moving from CIC to front and the other to the sub)?

--- Thank you!