M tech bumper install some pics to help
10-14-2007, 02:15 PM
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Hi Just to help out, as Andy545 and others posts have helped me. here's some info on the Mtech bumper swap ive just done
will try and PDF these some time.
A warning however my car is a UK 06 Diesel Auto, there are few differences between models, E.g mine has an intercooler and gearbox oil cooler.
Feel free to post and errors or differences, as aways at your own risk. The BMW PDF on this site is usefull only for cutting direction. This was my way im not suggesting its the best of 100% by the book.
The SE bumper is held by five bolts at the top in the pics below, four in the lower grill area and some bolts and catches at the side. I left the chrome kidney grills in till it was removed as the catches are prone to snapping - it was a Sunday. this easier with ramps, id imported some rhino ramps that work with cars with wide tyres.
Step one
Remove the black weather strip from the top of the bumper - it pulls out as shown
This reveals 5 torx bolts remove them the top will then be able to move a little.
Step two
Remove the centre lower SE air grill - it clips off with care sides firsr then centre bar
Then working from below, looking upwards remove the four torx bolts that point upwards in the foglight grill area, two in the centre, one beside each fog light
Step three the sides
From each side remove the upward pointing 10mm bolt at the tip of bumper in the wheel arch
As you work down outside edge of the bumper to wheel arch liner there are two 8mm bolts to remove.
At this point the only thing holding the bumper is actually the wing to bumper clips - these are very strong !!
Step four
Try to push the out edge of the bumper back and clip outward the tip - not easy
Then with thin flat blade or plastic trim tool push down the three black locking tabs shown - Try not to damage your wing (fender) or break the catches, this isnt easy
once the bumper comes outwards nothing else is holding it - Time for that second person !!
Step 5
Once the bumper is off, pointing downwards onto some cloths
Remove both fog light wires and the PDC connector - square one on RH of bumper.
the bumper is then free of the car
Unclip the PDC harness if you have one and gently remove the chrome kidney grills - these go on the Mtech bumper.
Stage 2 in next post
will try and PDF these some time.
A warning however my car is a UK 06 Diesel Auto, there are few differences between models, E.g mine has an intercooler and gearbox oil cooler.
Feel free to post and errors or differences, as aways at your own risk. The BMW PDF on this site is usefull only for cutting direction. This was my way im not suggesting its the best of 100% by the book.
The SE bumper is held by five bolts at the top in the pics below, four in the lower grill area and some bolts and catches at the side. I left the chrome kidney grills in till it was removed as the catches are prone to snapping - it was a Sunday. this easier with ramps, id imported some rhino ramps that work with cars with wide tyres.
Step one
Remove the black weather strip from the top of the bumper - it pulls out as shown
This reveals 5 torx bolts remove them the top will then be able to move a little.
Step two
Remove the centre lower SE air grill - it clips off with care sides firsr then centre bar
Then working from below, looking upwards remove the four torx bolts that point upwards in the foglight grill area, two in the centre, one beside each fog light
Step three the sides
From each side remove the upward pointing 10mm bolt at the tip of bumper in the wheel arch
As you work down outside edge of the bumper to wheel arch liner there are two 8mm bolts to remove.
At this point the only thing holding the bumper is actually the wing to bumper clips - these are very strong !!
Step four
Try to push the out edge of the bumper back and clip outward the tip - not easy
Then with thin flat blade or plastic trim tool push down the three black locking tabs shown - Try not to damage your wing (fender) or break the catches, this isnt easy
once the bumper comes outwards nothing else is holding it - Time for that second person !!
Step 5
Once the bumper is off, pointing downwards onto some cloths
Remove both fog light wires and the PDC connector - square one on RH of bumper.
the bumper is then free of the car
Unclip the PDC harness if you have one and gently remove the chrome kidney grills - these go on the Mtech bumper.
Stage 2 in next post
10-14-2007, 03:45 PM
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Stage 2 Preparing your Mtech bumper
Not many pics on this im afraid
Its pretty obvious luckly, clip in the new mtech foglights from the back ( different from the SE ones) Held by speed nuts and two bolts from the front
then add the black sleave/ cover from the front - they just clip in.
From the back of the bumper, clip in your centre grill from the back there are number of catches take your time not to snap them !
add the clip in the square blanking plates. or if you have the option active cruise or night vision plates -the ones with holes in them
Gently add the PDC sensors and wiring loom back into the bumper holes and clips - Take care as they only fit one position, the wiring loom ducks down below the headlight washer flaps. Add the flaps covers of course as well.
from the back, plug on the Mtech air tubes to the back of the grill, they only go one way again, and bend towards the brake cooling ducts on the car .
Optional step 2
The Mtech bumper shock absorber foam pieces are thicker and different than the SE ones - Maybe you don't need to change them, but I did
they clip out but you must remove the outside temporature loom to do this - its easy.
Clip in the Mtech ones if you are doing this step all the Mtech bit are marked MP for "M Paket".
Step 3 Air guides round radiators
NOTE BMW supply a number of different air guides with the Mtech kit, mines a diesel, and I have kind neighbour with a 530D M sport next door to refer to so it was easy ! Petrol cars use different guides as the air intake is on the other side.
Remove the 8mm screws holding upright airguide side panels to the car,
unclip the bottom piece of the airguide - the part with temp sensor in it, then remove the sensor
Very carefully twist out the old side parts of the airguide box, leaving the small top part as it is - it doesnt change.
There is risk of catching your radiator fins with this so take care.
On one side, opposite the air intake area, there is a blanking plate for the "other side air intake" remove it and clip it on the new part.
As they say assembly is the reverse of removal, so clip in the side panels add the speed nuts first - These panels are a little larger than the SE ones careful of the radiatior and the two cross bars in the air duct are a pain. Put the 8 mm bolts back in
Once in and cliped to the top guide, put the temporature sensor into the new larger lower MP duct panel.
clip the new lower MP duct panel in place on to the new side panels, reconnect the temporature sensor wiring.
bolt on the two metal extender clips that move the torx bolt mount forward. ther air box is now finished
Step 3 LH/RH closer panels
Remove the Right hand and left hand filler/closing panels - The ones that are between the wheel arch liner, and the front corners of the bumper
leave the engine belly pan however. These are removed with two 8mm bolts from the bottom edge of the wheel arch liner, plus two high speed cross point screws at the edge of the bellypan. These closing pieces also clip into the brake aircooler at its bottom.
Add the Mtech ones slightly different shape, but same attachment method, add a third speed nut on the outer edges - you will see where it goes.
Now the trickly bit !!
Step 4 Cutting the liner no pics
Cut the liner as per the BMW PDF file, I used some tin snips and a dremel with mini cutting disk, choose you own method. You are removing the curved part (13mm) then taking off a bit more 30mm as you get to the bottom. - its really difficult to do this neatly, as you don't have bumper on the car to refer to.
Once done you will see where the hole for the extra speed nut on the black filler panels need to go drill an 8mm hole to line up with it
NOTE : CAREFULL of those tyres - it dont drill or dremel them !
Step 5 Fitting the Mtech bumper
This is surprisingly easy as you've done the reverse.
With that second person offer up the bumper, reconnect the fog light wires and PDC connection. Move the bumper closer starting at the top with some gentle moving it will lie over the bumper bar as designed, check the brake airguides are lined up, at this point I stuck bolt in the top bonnet (hood) area in the centre area to stop it falling off
Check the wheel arch liner filler pieces are inside the lower lip of the Mtech bumper. At this point the front area should be pretty much there
Clip in the side of the bumper to the black plastic three prong clips on the wing edges - The one that were a pain on removal, The bumper should look almost finished at this point. Add the 10mm bolts back in the top corners of the liner/wing bumper tip areas.
Line up the top edge of the bumper with the headlights and holes add the five top torx bolts from your SE bumper, I closed the bonnet and made sure the gaps where even, theres a little adjustment possible push in the the original bonnet (hood) weather strip.
Add the two centre torx bolts from the new wide grill area to the extender clips you bolted on - The other two foglight areas one I couldnt fit ??
Add all the 8mm bolts in the wheel arch areas these should tighen up the bumper edges quite well.
Lastly there is a plastic strip with a rubber seal on it, it lines up with and goes "between" the lower lip of the mtech bumper and the fibre belly pan
there are speed nuts and some moulded stops to locate it - Screw this just inside the bumpers lower edge - you could fit this in advance either.
In the UK we need the licence plate holder centre it, and sadly screw to the bumper as show - it was getting dark
Also remember some double sided adhesive tabs for you licence plate - I forgot
Test you fog lights and PDC work ok
Get a well earned coffee or beer..admire you car and how much you saved over letting the dealer do it.
Hope this helps, also please excuse the odd typo
MAE60D
Not many pics on this im afraid
Its pretty obvious luckly, clip in the new mtech foglights from the back ( different from the SE ones) Held by speed nuts and two bolts from the front
then add the black sleave/ cover from the front - they just clip in.
From the back of the bumper, clip in your centre grill from the back there are number of catches take your time not to snap them !
add the clip in the square blanking plates. or if you have the option active cruise or night vision plates -the ones with holes in them
Gently add the PDC sensors and wiring loom back into the bumper holes and clips - Take care as they only fit one position, the wiring loom ducks down below the headlight washer flaps. Add the flaps covers of course as well.
from the back, plug on the Mtech air tubes to the back of the grill, they only go one way again, and bend towards the brake cooling ducts on the car .
Optional step 2
The Mtech bumper shock absorber foam pieces are thicker and different than the SE ones - Maybe you don't need to change them, but I did
they clip out but you must remove the outside temporature loom to do this - its easy.
Clip in the Mtech ones if you are doing this step all the Mtech bit are marked MP for "M Paket".
Step 3 Air guides round radiators
NOTE BMW supply a number of different air guides with the Mtech kit, mines a diesel, and I have kind neighbour with a 530D M sport next door to refer to so it was easy ! Petrol cars use different guides as the air intake is on the other side.
Remove the 8mm screws holding upright airguide side panels to the car,
unclip the bottom piece of the airguide - the part with temp sensor in it, then remove the sensor
Very carefully twist out the old side parts of the airguide box, leaving the small top part as it is - it doesnt change.
There is risk of catching your radiator fins with this so take care.
On one side, opposite the air intake area, there is a blanking plate for the "other side air intake" remove it and clip it on the new part.
As they say assembly is the reverse of removal, so clip in the side panels add the speed nuts first - These panels are a little larger than the SE ones careful of the radiatior and the two cross bars in the air duct are a pain. Put the 8 mm bolts back in
Once in and cliped to the top guide, put the temporature sensor into the new larger lower MP duct panel.
clip the new lower MP duct panel in place on to the new side panels, reconnect the temporature sensor wiring.
bolt on the two metal extender clips that move the torx bolt mount forward. ther air box is now finished
Step 3 LH/RH closer panels
Remove the Right hand and left hand filler/closing panels - The ones that are between the wheel arch liner, and the front corners of the bumper
leave the engine belly pan however. These are removed with two 8mm bolts from the bottom edge of the wheel arch liner, plus two high speed cross point screws at the edge of the bellypan. These closing pieces also clip into the brake aircooler at its bottom.
Add the Mtech ones slightly different shape, but same attachment method, add a third speed nut on the outer edges - you will see where it goes.
Now the trickly bit !!
Step 4 Cutting the liner no pics
Cut the liner as per the BMW PDF file, I used some tin snips and a dremel with mini cutting disk, choose you own method. You are removing the curved part (13mm) then taking off a bit more 30mm as you get to the bottom. - its really difficult to do this neatly, as you don't have bumper on the car to refer to.
Once done you will see where the hole for the extra speed nut on the black filler panels need to go drill an 8mm hole to line up with it
NOTE : CAREFULL of those tyres - it dont drill or dremel them !
Step 5 Fitting the Mtech bumper
This is surprisingly easy as you've done the reverse.
With that second person offer up the bumper, reconnect the fog light wires and PDC connection. Move the bumper closer starting at the top with some gentle moving it will lie over the bumper bar as designed, check the brake airguides are lined up, at this point I stuck bolt in the top bonnet (hood) area in the centre area to stop it falling off
Check the wheel arch liner filler pieces are inside the lower lip of the Mtech bumper. At this point the front area should be pretty much there
Clip in the side of the bumper to the black plastic three prong clips on the wing edges - The one that were a pain on removal, The bumper should look almost finished at this point. Add the 10mm bolts back in the top corners of the liner/wing bumper tip areas.
Line up the top edge of the bumper with the headlights and holes add the five top torx bolts from your SE bumper, I closed the bonnet and made sure the gaps where even, theres a little adjustment possible push in the the original bonnet (hood) weather strip.
Add the two centre torx bolts from the new wide grill area to the extender clips you bolted on - The other two foglight areas one I couldnt fit ??
Add all the 8mm bolts in the wheel arch areas these should tighen up the bumper edges quite well.
Lastly there is a plastic strip with a rubber seal on it, it lines up with and goes "between" the lower lip of the mtech bumper and the fibre belly pan
there are speed nuts and some moulded stops to locate it - Screw this just inside the bumpers lower edge - you could fit this in advance either.
In the UK we need the licence plate holder centre it, and sadly screw to the bumper as show - it was getting dark
Also remember some double sided adhesive tabs for you licence plate - I forgot
Test you fog lights and PDC work ok
Get a well earned coffee or beer..admire you car and how much you saved over letting the dealer do it.
Hope this helps, also please excuse the odd typo
MAE60D
10-15-2007, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by elyk' post='481630' date='Oct 15 2007, 05:19 AM
great DIY! and hows the fittment?
Transforms the car plus unlike other cars e.g my E46, the parts seem to line up very well due the fixing method BMW use
Takes a while but worth it, I got the full kit from the dealer -discounted, better then some ebay damaged one once you add up the cost of brackets etc. I've also got the rare 125 style 19" alloys which go well with it I think
MAE60D
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