Desert525i

I spent $650 thru Matt Cilwa at World Wide Specialty Parts on Ebay, With a true lifetime warranty it's worth it. He's customer service, no doubt about it. Will help out before and after. Due to me being out of town I requested they wait to send it back so I would be here to get it. It took a week from AZ and they waited till the return would coincide with my return so about 3 weeks total. They may have quicker service, ask Matt about it. They replace parts in the valvebody that usually don't get done and bigger valves too. you can't go wrong. I couldn't get the mechatronics sleeve back in due to my large hands and arms so the indy had to clean up after me but it runs like I never believed it would, Hope this helps you out. Drop Matt an email and ask what he can do. His ebay name is worldwidespecialtypartsvbx. Here's a number also;
Matt Cilwa
World Wide SP
1-888-511-7369
(513)886-1215
Good luck!

TeflonDon

Thanks - I actually spoke with Matt around 5pm EST, Thanks again. I'll be doing the job in 2 - 3 weeks and post back results /pictures...

mkv

Hey everyone,

Would some of you kind people please post up what your adaption values are of your 5 clutch/brake mechanisms in your 6HP19's?

Mine are
Clutch A: 170mbar, 24ms
Clutch B: -200mbar, 40ms
Brake C: 160mbar, 92ms
Brake D: -90mbar, 0ms
Clutch E: -250mbar, 0ms
(apparently D and E are always 0ms for rapid fill time)

In consulation with my local ZF agency, they say that my rapid fill times are way out. They say that they (and official ZF agency) has a limit of +25ms...
The ZF workbook that floats around on the net has much bigger limits than this, and puts my values within spec.
My local ZF agent with their diagnosis as these values being out, wants to start stripping my box at considerable cost... Which I understand is somewhat of their usual response.

Hence I'd like to see what other peoples are in other decent working transmissions?

They are under measure blocks 73 thru 77 (clutch A is 73, clutch E is 77)

I have a slight shift bump going into 2nd, either up from 1st or down from 3rd. But otherwise the box is smooth in all gears. Thinking about doing solenoids.

Kind Regards
Mark V

mkv

An update:

I contacted ZF Germany via their website, and asked them directly if my quick fill times were out. They said they were fine... In stark contrast to our local ZF agents.
They did say though that my pressure adaptions were a little low on some clutches, but that it's within range...

I'd still like to see what other people have though? Would be nice to compare.

ericono

Desert525i,

Just to make sure I am on the same page, and referencing TeflonDon's parts list, does the work that World Wide SP do replace all the parts circled in red? Leaving the last 2 line items to be added during reinstallation?



Thanks,

Eric

gmak

I'm following the DIY at the start of this thread on a 2006 530XI with 5HP19X transmission. I've drained the ATF, removed the old pan / filter, removed the sleeve for the electronics coupling, and taken out the mechatronic valve body. I am puzzled / confused / stuck on a couple of things and I'm hoping that the vast experience here can help me.

1. The unlocking lever seems to be stuck in the down position and gently trying to push it back up (with the Mechatronic valve body out of the car) is meeting with some resistance. I don't want to force it because it seems quite fragile and I don't relish paying $3000 for a new mechatronic just for that unlocking level. Is there a trick to this?

2. The sleeve from the electronic coupler seems to be a bit big to be able to remove it from the space between the transmission and the transfer casing support. Is there a way to get it out - or is my only option to take off the heat shield (maybe even part of the exhaust system) to get at that part of the transfer casing and try to remove the bracket (I'm not sure if it is even a separate piece at this stage)? Even if I get it out without removing any more hardware- it might be with damage to the sleeve, suggesting that the new one wouldn't be possible to get back up there. Is there a way to tell if the sleeve is still adequate to do its job - i.e. would it be ok to reuse it?

Thanks for any help.

KyleB

why are you trying to push it back in? yes it is fragile. leave in the down position if you can.

Quote:

2. The sleeve from the electronic coupler seems to be a bit big to be able to remove it from the space between the transmission and the transfer casing support. Is there a way to get it out - or is my only option to take off the heat shield (maybe even part of the exhaust system) to get at that part of the transfer casing and try to remove the bracket (I'm not sure if it is even a separate piece at this stage)? Even if I get it out without removing any more hardware- it might be with damage to the sleeve, suggesting that the new one wouldn't be possible to get back up there. Is there a way to tell if the sleeve is still adequate to do its job - i.e. would it be ok to reuse it?

Thanks for any help.

I never did this job on an Xi, but yes it might be necessary to remove some things. It's hard to say without seeing photos. even with everything out of the way, yes it is a PITA to get the sleeve out of that opening and an even bigger PITA to get it set in place and fully seated against the transmission casing, which is why I recommended lubing it up with some vaseline. take your time and you'll be fine. you could always have the dealer do it too, vaseline will also be required for this.

gmak

Thanks for the reply Kyle. It has to be in the lock position to hold the sleeve in place, no? I just wanted to see how much effort I would need while the whole thing is out of the car. If it isn't locked in place then the wiring won't couple properly because the sleeve will pull out as the plug is screwed on. I'm going to take a closer look at the whole lock mechanism. Others say that it needs a bit more force initially. We'll see.

For the sleeve itself, I'm going to look at taking off the o-rings and pushing it through the hole into the tranny, where it should just drop down and out - because the sleeve does fit completely inside that opening. If that looks like it works, then I'll do the reverse to get the new one in place - remove the o-rings, push the sleeve through the opening into that little place between the tranny and transfer case, and then put the rings back on.

I'll take pictures of whatever I do to provide more info and explanation for the next one to do this on an XI.

gmak

Here is a bit of information from thectsc.com: Apparently, some earlier zf 6hp transmissions didn't have the foam strip (like mine, which confused me no end). It was added to reduce contaminants getting into the valve body via the solenoids.

Meanwhile, I was also told on another site that the sleeve lock won't move into place without the sleeve - which presses on two small metal points in the plug in order to allow the lock to move back up. I've tried this outside of the car and [update] I got it to work. i.e. I can close the lock when the sleeve is pressed into the socket of the TCM (Tranny control module).

gmak

I'm waiting for my foam strip to show up still. This got me to thinking. Does anyone ever run some brake cleaner through the valve body (spray in via the solenoid hole) and then use compressed air to dry it out and push sediment "out". Is this even possible? Would it do any good? Would it cause any harm?