DIY ZF 6HP19Z Transmission Drain & Refill
#181
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My Ride: 2006 BMW 550i
5.5 seems the be what comes out if you remove the pan. That's over 50% and great. I'm wondering if you don't remove the pan approximately how much comes out. If it's 3 liters, that's 1/3 of the fluid and not so great (3 changes would get about 65% fluid change). Or if anyone who's done this has an estimate of how much is left in the pan when you drop it down, that would help.
also, if your car is older, and has a lot of miles, chances are your pan may be seeping some fluid. if you have a lot of miles, and your fluid was never changed, i'd get a new pan, and from then on just do semi-frequent fluid changes.
if you want to be cheap, amazon sells the pan/filter for 100 shipped.
#182
if you follow ZF instruction on refilling it, you don't really need to be so concern with exactly how much you drained out. Just empty the pan, the fill it up when cold, run the engine for whatever until it reaches the desired temperature, between 35-50 Celsius, and fill it up again until it start dripping/streaming from the fill plug. Of course it's always nice to have some sort of idea on how much it came out to compare. In my case, I had the minor leakage prior so it didn't matter much as long I put in more than what came out.
#183
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Just did my 525Xi over the weekend and used the ctsc oil change kit for 6HP19/21 @ 238.03.
Just a few comments...
1) If you have a Xi/AWD you will need to remove the front drive shaft. The fill plug is directly behind the shaft. Make sure you get the drain plug free before you drop the pan. The easiest way to do this is to remove the 4 bolts closest to the front as you cant get the ones in the back without rotating the shaft. Once the 4 front bolts are removed you can rotate the shaft for easy access to the back 4 bolts.
2) Be VERY careful in torquing the pan bolts as then will strip, don't ask how I know
3) If you can drive the car up on ramps or something before hand and give the pan bolts a good dose of break-free a few day before you plan to do the DYI, the bolts will should be easier to remove. Some of the blots go through the tran case and if you bend the tube of the break-free you can actually get some in this spot.
4) It took about 5.5 bottles of the LifeGuard6 to fill it back up and that was about how much came out.
5) I actually bought the Sealing sleeve from ctsc but did not replace it as it was not leaking.
Now a question??? I have 105k miles on my 525Xi and this is the first trans oil/filter change. My pan and trans mechatronic had a coating of the fine dust you see on the pan magnets. I mean a VERY thin coating, but noticeable if you ran you finger over the mechatronic. Has anyone else noticed this? Is this a sign that my trans is going soon? The trans seems to be running fine and seems to shift well.
Just a few comments...
1) If you have a Xi/AWD you will need to remove the front drive shaft. The fill plug is directly behind the shaft. Make sure you get the drain plug free before you drop the pan. The easiest way to do this is to remove the 4 bolts closest to the front as you cant get the ones in the back without rotating the shaft. Once the 4 front bolts are removed you can rotate the shaft for easy access to the back 4 bolts.
2) Be VERY careful in torquing the pan bolts as then will strip, don't ask how I know
3) If you can drive the car up on ramps or something before hand and give the pan bolts a good dose of break-free a few day before you plan to do the DYI, the bolts will should be easier to remove. Some of the blots go through the tran case and if you bend the tube of the break-free you can actually get some in this spot.
4) It took about 5.5 bottles of the LifeGuard6 to fill it back up and that was about how much came out.
5) I actually bought the Sealing sleeve from ctsc but did not replace it as it was not leaking.
Now a question??? I have 105k miles on my 525Xi and this is the first trans oil/filter change. My pan and trans mechatronic had a coating of the fine dust you see on the pan magnets. I mean a VERY thin coating, but noticeable if you ran you finger over the mechatronic. Has anyone else noticed this? Is this a sign that my trans is going soon? The trans seems to be running fine and seems to shift well.
#185
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.....
Now a question??? I have 105k miles on my 525Xi and this is the first trans oil/filter change. My pan and trans mechatronic had a coating of the fine dust you see on the pan magnets. I mean a VERY thin coating, but noticeable if you ran you finger over the mechatronic. Has anyone else noticed this? Is this a sign that my trans is going soon? The trans seems to be running fine and seems to shift well.
Now a question??? I have 105k miles on my 525Xi and this is the first trans oil/filter change. My pan and trans mechatronic had a coating of the fine dust you see on the pan magnets. I mean a VERY thin coating, but noticeable if you ran you finger over the mechatronic. Has anyone else noticed this? Is this a sign that my trans is going soon? The trans seems to be running fine and seems to shift well.
how dark was your old fluid?
#186
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The reason I was concerned is because I did not see this when I changed my trans oil/filter last year on my 328i. Its a gm trans with 95k and the oil was still brownish. I guess its due to different trans different ware patterns.
#187
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My Ride: 2000 323i (Sport Wagon)
2007 530i
My main concern was simplicity and not having to worry about the dealer claiming I screwed up the transmission if anything went (it's still on CPO) as I tried to get the dealer to change the fluid before I bought the car and they refused citing warranty issues. Yeah, I'm partially being cheap but figured if I could get a good amount out, just draining the plug would be an easy way to get some benefit. I'm thinking I should just pony up the $$, get the full kit, and do it. I just hate dealing with auto transmissions.
my guess is that around 1 liter remains in the pan, so you probably drain 4.5 liters. the only bad thing though is that with the design of the pan, the drain is not in the lowest spot, and you wont get out any particles floating on the bottom of the pan.
also, if your car is older, and has a lot of miles, chances are your pan may be seeping some fluid. if you have a lot of miles, and your fluid was never changed, i'd get a new pan, and from then on just do semi-frequent fluid changes.
if you want to be cheap, amazon sells the pan/filter for 100 shipped.
also, if your car is older, and has a lot of miles, chances are your pan may be seeping some fluid. if you have a lot of miles, and your fluid was never changed, i'd get a new pan, and from then on just do semi-frequent fluid changes.
if you want to be cheap, amazon sells the pan/filter for 100 shipped.
if you follow ZF instruction on refilling it, you don't really need to be so concern with exactly how much you drained out. Just empty the pan, the fill it up when cold, run the engine for whatever until it reaches the desired temperature, between 35-50 Celsius, and fill it up again until it start dripping/streaming from the fill plug. Of course it's always nice to have some sort of idea on how much it came out to compare. In my case, I had the minor leakage prior so it didn't matter much as long I put in more than what came out.
#188
My main concern was simplicity and not having to worry about the dealer claiming I screwed up the transmission if anything went (it's still on CPO) as I tried to get the dealer to change the fluid before I bought the car and they refused citing warranty issues. Yeah, I'm partially being cheap but figured if I could get a good amount out, just draining the plug would be an easy way to get some benefit. I'm thinking I should just pony up the $$, get the full kit, and do it. I just hate dealing with auto transmissions.
Just drain it when the engine is slightly warm, either measure how much drained out and put back the same amount or until it start dripping from the fill plug. I was able to put back slightly more than 2.5 liter it was cold.
GL