gcalo

Yes I checked very thoroughly.

I called dealer and parts person gave me the P/N for the springs = 31 33 6 761 325 for Msport.

I then went to the shock catalog and located the Boge/Sachs P/N's that correclate to those springs as I stated

KyleB

I just entered that part number in realoem.com and nothing populated.

Not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to help and ensure you're getting the right parts. I'm sure you know what happens if you put a standard shock on a car with a lowered suspension.

Anyhow, good luck with the car. I'm about to order new shocks too. It's time.

gcalo

I have a 2006 530i.

I checked those shock numbers 6 ways to Sunday and that's how I cam up with these P/N's.

bobbyggx

Hey guys, here is another DYI regarding the shock removal.

FRONT
REAR

gcalo

I did finally get a chance to get all the parts together to get the shocks ready for install. I have been extremely busy with a new venture, and had no time before this to get to the project.

I decided to build up the shocks with everything new since I could feel the front springs had gotten weak. So I puchased all the parts including the springs, and then purchased a great spring compressor

I also decided that since this was the 1st time for working on BMW struts that I would do it as 2 step process: a) get the struts fully ready, and b) next day install the struts.

I am very glad I did that, and tomorrow I will detail the process and indicate what I found out about the spring compressor I purchased.

I have also come up with current info from Boge-Sachs that I will scan and then make a .pdf to post here.

It was an invaluable find with BMW Xref numbers so you are sure you ahve the right shocks.

I will also detail the vendors from whom I purchased everything.

Help from others on this site has been invaluable.

gcalo

Certainly the 1st part of this project deals with spring compressors. As is well established compressing springs can be a very dangerous endeavor.

Most spring compressors are two (2) piece and come in variants. Those scared me a bit, as slippage was a concern and uneven pressures was possible. I just was not sold on most designs.

Two piece units do, however, put pressure on both sides of the spring which is good.

I just did not find any in general that I liked (until after I had purchased mine!), although there are many comments here about various 2-piece units.

One I subsequently found that I thought would be an excellent two-piece model is made by Specialty Products. It is their model #40260. Easy to find on the net. 40260 - Universal Spring Compressor - Specialty Products -

It has a very clever lock system and each compressor has a central internal thread mechanism. This would be a very safe compressor based upon what I found.

So fearing the worst from 2-piece units I ultimately saw the KT Tools unit on the Bav Auto youtube. It looked like what I would want, but I was not crazy about spending $300.00 for a compressor I may use only a few times.

I sourced eBay and found one from econosuperstore. http://econosuperstore.com/. They are actually in City of Industry, CA (626) 810-6662).

Their unit emulates the KT Tools model but for much less money. It has three sets of spring jaws for springs with outside dimensions of 65-125 mm OD, 88 - 160 mm OD, and 126 - 212 mm.

The KT unit has jaws for springs outside dimensions of 75-110 mm OD, 110 - 140 mm OD, and 140 - 190 mm.

So clearly the KT unit is more closely sized to BMW springs, and, as I discovered, caused a minor concern. The econosuperstore unit is more generic in nature where the KT Tools unit is more "foreign" car spring sized applicable.

I wanted to compress the spring with the steel spring pocket attached. The spring pocket is a few thousandths large in OD that is the interior of the Black jaw set! This is where the KT unit is actually better sized.

The Bav Auto video emphasizes that the "lip" on the jaws should firmly catch the insides of the sping turns. I could not get this with the Black jaw, and the silver jaw was just to big to use for the steel spring cup end.

So I used the Black jaw for one end and the Silver jaw for the other. This worked great.

I also used a file and put a bit of an angle on the outside endge of the steel spring cup so the spring cup would seat OK into the Black jaw.

It worked great. I did use a woven strap on the exterior around the the end of the Black jaw just to be sure the spring cup would not move out of the Black jaw under pressure.

Pressure was uniform, and the compression went smoothly. Took maybe 15 minutes max per stut assembly!

The assembly from econosuperstore is a good one, and Kevin is checking to see if his supplier has a Black jaw that might be closer in size to the 110 - 140 mm OD of the KT model.

Good unit, very sturdy, and does the job very well.

Next is the parts and suppliers

An important note about securing the top shock nut and the tools to do that.

KC Tool sells the ideal Torx bit to stabilize the shock rod. www.kctoolco.com

It is their P/N: WR066939, and it was $10.66 including postage.

http://www.kctoolco.com/Wera-867-2-Z-T40-x-100mm-Torx-Bit-5-16-Drive-p/wr066939.htm

As to the socket, I purchased a 13/16" plug unit. I had to use a rattail file inside to slightly open the hole for the Torx bit to enter and turn easily.

A 21 mm socket would fit the nut more completely if you can find one.

And definitely tighten that nut by use of hand tools!

gcalo

KyleB,

The shocks were the correct ones. I gave my VIN to a BMW dealer and he confirmed the BMW P/N. I then Xref'd that on the chart I have and bingo they were the ones.

I have a new Xref of Boge-Sachs shocks with the BMW Xref which I will post shortly.

The install went fine. Only prob was compressing the spring enough to get the assembly out of the wheel well.

I used my spring compressor as herein detailed to reduce the spring heighht about 1/2". If one has a 2" wide ratchet strap as pictured earlier here that should work as well.

I used a 1/2" wide steel chisel/wedge to gradually spead the clamp assembly after removing the 16 mm short bolt and the 18 mm long bolt.

I also sprayed a bit of WD-40 around the unit. Came loose easily.

Before inserting the new strut I put a bit of anti-seize compound on the bottom part of the shock housing and w/in the clamp to make certain that shock was fully seated!

Removed the chisel and the strut was in place tight.

Tightened up everything and verified the torque values, and whop di do!

I am very pleased that I decided to replace my springs. It has made a huge difference!

An important note about the 55 mm washer (31306763966) that sits on top of the steel spring pocket.

One side of that washer is beveled and the other side is flat.

The beveled side must face upward towards the top bearing guide assembly (31336760943).

If it does not face towards the bearing assembly the assembly will not turn freely.

Pay attention to this fact.

The Bav Auto video does not even point out this fact.

It is critical!

Thanks to all contributors here.

This was easier than I had assumed.

Parts detail and sources to follow.

gcalo

Two more installation points:

1) Seating The New Shock Assembly-

Make certain the new strut is fully seated into the clamp mechanism or the car will ride high.

I used the heavy duty chisel as I had indicated to slightly open the clamp. This allowed me to ensure that the strut was seated fully. Once I removed the chisel knowing the strut was completely seated, the clamp grabbed onto the strut by itself.

2) Placement Of Spring Bottom On The Shock Base -

I have attached a photo of where the spring should seat when releasing the spring compressor. This info comes from Boge-Sachs.

Very important to follow to ensure the spring is fully supported..

gcalo

When replacing the struts check the lower front control arm bushings!

The OEM are rubber that don't last. The rubber OEM's are no good.

After putting in the new struts/springs I felt a slight sponginess in the front end which I quickly recognized as bad control arm bushings.

I had an earlier 7 series in which I replaced those bushings 3X's in 2 years!

Put eurethane bushings in there only.

I found them at Problem Solving Polyurethane PSB Bushings | Armstrong Distributors

John there was fantastic and he shipped them very quickly.

He has all types of bushings for all makes.

Highly recommended

Quarta2six

Did you re-use the flimsy dust cover that sits in between the bottom of the mount and the washer your referring too? jus curious I was unsure whether I needed to put that back on.