Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='899682' date='Jun 3 2009, 08:39 PM

I had this same problem and no one helped :thumbsdown: hope you have better luck. But basically you want the light pointing down towards the pockets. If you are wondering which side of the panels have them, then you'll actually see light marks on the insides of the door panels where the lights are meant to go.

Originally Posted by kErb' post='900448' date='Jun 4 2009, 07:01 AM

I assume therefore that the rear door must be the same. Did you fit with the two retaining clips/lugs going from side to side or from top to bottom?

Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='900481' date='Jun 4 2009, 07:32 AM

Top to bottom. You will see that the housing is angle and will actually orient itself only one direction.

Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='900522' date='Jun 4 2009, 08:37 AM

I didn't follow. Any pictures?

Originally Posted by kErb' post='901488' date='Jun 5 2009, 07:38 AM

The front door pocket light holders have one clip / lug to hold them in position, the lug is positioned top to bottom. The hooded part on the front of the holder is at the top to cast the light downwards. The rear doors have two clips / lugs to hold them in position which are positioned side to side (right and left) of the hooded part if I follow the same logic as the fronts. I haven't got any photo's at the minute to upload as I'm at work - I can try to take some tonight if necessary. As well as the main hole, do the markings on the door panels also show where the retaining lugs are positioned? If so I will be able to work it out from looking at then once I can get a panel off the car. Did you do the rear doors on your car or just the fronts?

Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='868904' date='May 5 2009, 09:06 PM

Please read this thread in conjunction with this one http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=61259&hl= because he did it first. I just made it plug and play.

I'll just cover the bits that are missing from that DIY.

There are basically atleast two configuration for the doors.
1. Models with Door Modules.
2. Models without Door Modules.

Both the DIY linked and my car are the later versions without the door modules.

Don't bother putting any resistors in series with the LEDs because the signal is already current limited and adding resistors will just make the LEDs are lot dimmer.

Definately spend money and buy the OEM LEDs because they come in a housing that clicks into the openings and at the correct angle. The OEM LEDs also come with a 2 pin socket housing at the end.

Besides all the parts listed in that other DIY to make EACH door plug and play you need the following parts.

1. 1 x Universal socket housing uncoded 4 POL. 61138380696
2. 1 x Universal pin terminal uncoded 4 POL. 61136925611
3. 8 x Pin-contact 0,2- 0,5MM? 61130005198 - these come with about 1 foot of wire attached (or if you want to crimp things yourself you need 8 x 61131383672)
4. 4 x Bushing contact 0,2- 0,5MM? 61130005197 - these come with about 1 foot of wire attached (or if you want to crimp things yourself you need 4 x 61131383776)
5. 2 x Universal pin terminal uncoded 2 POL. 61138373583

Now you need to make up a junction to split the power from each switch so that you get two new outputs to go to the two new LEDs.

What you are aiming for is a direct connection from the pin terminal uncoded 4 POL. 61136925611 to the socket housing uncoded 4 POL. 61138380696 for the pins you don't need. And a branch out for the two pins you need. These are Ground on pin 2 and +ve is on pin 3 in three doors, but in pin 4 in Driver door. I chose to make these connections on a small vero board and then covered it in heat shrink.

Attachment 78748 Attachment 78749

Take the two output wires for the LEDs and connect them up to four Pin-contact 0,2- 0,5MM? 61130005198. The LED at the bottom door may need some extension wire so that it reaches there.

Put on the two pin terminal uncoded 2 POL. 61138373583 to the pin contacts and then you can plug the LEDs into them.

Making the holes in the doors are a pain, be very very careful when making the holes especially the one near the door handle because your drill bit can go through the handle if you are not careful. Start small and work your way slowly.

It may help to cut off the small catch on the LED exits to make it easier to mount but then you will need some glue to hold those in place.
Attachment 78750
Attachment 78751
Attachment 78752
Attachment 78753

May sure you tape the new wiring carefully to the door and avoid the air bag routes.

Attachment 78755
Attachment 78756

That's it. Doing it this way you can always still remove the door panels and change any of the LEDs if they blow.

Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='902506' date='Jun 6 2009, 02:39 PM

Yes, I think. When you look at the parts it should be very obvious what goes into which. But otherwise the pins go into the pin holders and bushing contacts into the socket holders.