OUCH!!
10-01-2008, 11:42 PM
#1
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Canada/ Ottawa
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, Got my porter cable 7424!! 
I was already nervous enough to start correcting the paint imperfections on my car. Now im really biting my nails. I assembled the kit I got which came with a white foam pad (No clue what its used for?) 
Anywho...turned this thing on and started to play with the variable speeds. As smart as my gf thinks I am I went and put my hand on the white pad while spinning on setting No.3 to see how soft it was. FU%$ING HELL!!! I burnt my finers!!! 
I know alot of people say it is hard to burn your clear coat but im having some second thoughts about the heat that this machine causes. All i wanted to do was correct marring + swirll marks that a local detailer caused. Anyone have ANY advice for me?? Also was wondering if anyone knows the optium temperature that buffing+polishing+ waxing a car would be best. The reason I ask is that I am wondering if it is too late for me over here in Canada; the temperature drops down to 5c at night and alot of condensation covers the car at night and this job might take 3 days long. Would this ruin my work?
I was already nervous enough to start correcting the paint imperfections on my car. Now im really biting my nails. I assembled the kit I got which came with a white foam pad (No clue what its used for?) Anywho...turned this thing on and started to play with the variable speeds. As smart as my gf thinks I am I went and put my hand on the white pad while spinning on setting No.3 to see how soft it was. FU%$ING HELL!!! I burnt my finers!!! I know alot of people say it is hard to burn your clear coat but im having some second thoughts about the heat that this machine causes. All i wanted to do was correct marring + swirll marks that a local detailer caused. Anyone have ANY advice for me?? Also was wondering if anyone knows the optium temperature that buffing+polishing+ waxing a car would be best. The reason I ask is that I am wondering if it is too late for me over here in Canada; the temperature drops down to 5c at night and alot of condensation covers the car at night and this job might take 3 days long. Would this ruin my work?
10-02-2008, 12:57 AM
#2
Contributors
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Milton Keynes, United Kingdom
Posts: 733
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: 535d M-Sport '06 Plate - Carbon Black - Black Leather - Pro Sat Nav - Logic 7 - HUD - Bluetooth - Privacy Glass - 172M 19" Alloys - Heated Seats - PDC - Adaptive Headlights - Extended Voice Control - Paintshield Extended - M5 Boot Finisher - Bright White LED Internal Lighting - Dension Gateway 500 Ipod/USB/Aux Integration
Haha! Luckily BMW paint is alot harder than the thin, fleshy pads of your fingertips!! You won't do that again.
I used THIS INFORMATION when starting out doing paint correction. Along with help from fellow E60.net member keith_84_uk.
It'll be worth spending a bit of time reading through the guides on the site above and even having a long look through the many threads on there too. It's a great site and the members on there are really friendly and offer help whenever you need it. Many of them are professional detailers so any question you throw out there will always get an answer.
The best advice I found when starting was, "Just relax!" If you're relaxed then you'll enjoy the process alot more and less likely to make a mistake.
Good Luck and let us know how you get on.
Marc
I used THIS INFORMATION when starting out doing paint correction. Along with help from fellow E60.net member keith_84_uk.
It'll be worth spending a bit of time reading through the guides on the site above and even having a long look through the many threads on there too. It's a great site and the members on there are really friendly and offer help whenever you need it. Many of them are professional detailers so any question you throw out there will always get an answer.
The best advice I found when starting was, "Just relax!" If you're relaxed then you'll enjoy the process alot more and less likely to make a mistake.
Good Luck and let us know how you get on.
Marc
10-02-2008, 03:32 AM
#3
Senior Members
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Queens/Long Island NY
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: 2006 550i Black Saphire/Black Dakota Leather- Loaded- M5 Appearance Package, Sport Package, Pro logic 7 Premium Sound, Navigation, Cold Weather Package, Comfort Package, Heads-up Display, park Distance Control, Bluetooth, Active Steering, Electric Rear Sunshade, Rear Folding Seats, Front/Rear Heated Seats, Xenon lights, Satelite Radio- Extended Maintenance, CPO (Considering Tire/Wheel Insurance)
That was a very sweet answer...
10-02-2008, 03:39 AM
#4
Contributors
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 14,646
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: 2008 Silverstone II E60 M5 2012 E70 AW X5 50i Sport w/ LCI Aero Kit and Rocker Panels
What other pads did you buy? I use Orange, Grey and Blue. These are light cutting pads to final finishing pads. This is what removes the swirls and returns the high gloss to your paints finish.
10-02-2008, 11:57 AM
#5
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Canada/ Ottawa
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by C's Bimmer' post='683474' date='Oct 2 2008, 07:39 AM
What other pads did you buy? I use Orange, Grey and Blue. These are light cutting pads to final finishing pads. This is what removes the swirls and returns the high gloss to your paints finish.
Im using ccs white pad, ccs orange pad. With Menzerna Intensive Polish PO 91E 32 and Menzerna PO 106FA . I plan on using IP with the orange pad followed by 106 with the white pad, but im still worried about the teperature over here. Its too damm cold!! Will this sc`rew everything applied over night because of the condensaion?
10-07-2008, 02:10 PM
#6
Members
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Portland, OR : USA
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: '89 BMW E34 525i M20
Okay, first of all the Porter Cable 7424 only spins under no load, once you have it on the paint with minimal pressure it no longer spins, only oscillates with zero forceful rotation. There is very, very little heat produced by the 7424, even with an orange pad. (Which IMHO is the best pad to use for the minimal amount of correction that can be achieved with a porter cable.)
So basically, unless you lift off the paint, let the machine spin, and just abrely touch the edge of the pad to the paint for a long time, you won't be burning it with the PC. Even then, I've never seen that happen. A forced rotation rotary is a different story, though.
Second, Menzerna is particularly finicky in cold, extra hot, as well as humid weather - but I still rely on it as my number one choice for paintwork correction.
Get the car in a garage and have a heater running. Please, an indoor-safe space heater, don't kill yourself.
Personally, I prefer SIP instead of 91IP, and 106FF/FA will not fully be taken advantage of by a PC, consider it's diminishing abrasive and the PC lacks the power to create the smooth, constant friction that a rotary can which gives that perfect level gloss. Yes, 106 may improve the finish, but the PC can finish IP or SIP without marring or holograms, yet you give up the stronger cut that could be potentially achieved if you were to use the same SIP or IP compounds on a rotary with the same white pad.
Lastly, what are you worried about removing? What is your procedure for polishing, what about waxing? You should be removing the polishes immediately after you finish a section. I usually work in half panels, remove, other half, then remove.
With waxes or sealants, it depends on what you are using. Some require time to cute, but most are wax and remove, and they will cure after you remove excess.
If you have wiped everything down before you leave it, I don't see a problem because it's not like the wax will flake off because it's cold. Yes, it's longevity may be compromised if it is extremely hot or if it is exposed to constant rain, but not if it's cold.
So basically, unless you lift off the paint, let the machine spin, and just abrely touch the edge of the pad to the paint for a long time, you won't be burning it with the PC. Even then, I've never seen that happen. A forced rotation rotary is a different story, though.
Second, Menzerna is particularly finicky in cold, extra hot, as well as humid weather - but I still rely on it as my number one choice for paintwork correction.
Get the car in a garage and have a heater running. Please, an indoor-safe space heater, don't kill yourself.
Personally, I prefer SIP instead of 91IP, and 106FF/FA will not fully be taken advantage of by a PC, consider it's diminishing abrasive and the PC lacks the power to create the smooth, constant friction that a rotary can which gives that perfect level gloss. Yes, 106 may improve the finish, but the PC can finish IP or SIP without marring or holograms, yet you give up the stronger cut that could be potentially achieved if you were to use the same SIP or IP compounds on a rotary with the same white pad.
Lastly, what are you worried about removing? What is your procedure for polishing, what about waxing? You should be removing the polishes immediately after you finish a section. I usually work in half panels, remove, other half, then remove.
With waxes or sealants, it depends on what you are using. Some require time to cute, but most are wax and remove, and they will cure after you remove excess.
If you have wiped everything down before you leave it, I don't see a problem because it's not like the wax will flake off because it's cold. Yes, it's longevity may be compromised if it is extremely hot or if it is exposed to constant rain, but not if it's cold.