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Best Car Wax

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Old 06-08-2006, 05:48 PM
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REJEX
Old 06-08-2006, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dgdoc' post='294833' date='Jun 8 2006, 08:47 PM
Sealant, then wax on top is a fairly popular technique. Most sealants provide protection but lack "depth". Applying a wax on top is supposed to give the best of both worlds.

I did this for a while with the Klasse stuff followed by P21S for the top layer. Recently, I've switched over to Zaino because it seems to be less work to get the same results.
Recently I used Poorboy's EX sealant topped with Pinnacle Souverin Paste wax. I have not yet tried Zaino, but have heard nothing butgood things about this product.
Old 06-08-2006, 07:11 PM
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I have been purchasing my detailing products from a great website.

Top of the Line


They have everything you could possibly need, and they are VERY helpful if you have questions. They also have a nice tips section with Q&A, etc...

Here is a reply from them to a Question:


Question:

I have been detailing for 10 years, both professionally and as a hobby. I recently purchased your Cyclo polisher. I have been able to attain "better than average" finishes on cars. Both compound and polishing processes pose no problems but, I really have trouble with the glaze and sealer drying up, sticking to the finish and smearing causing black blotches. The end result is not pretty. The glaze and sealer are supposed to be idiot proof, so will I ever get past these inconsistencies? I am open to ideas or straight up advice.



Answer:

You are performing too many steps, using too much product on the pads, and using products that are incompatible. Paint preparation and waxing should be a very simple process requiring no more than two steps; three at the most on cars with severe problems. Clean up the process and make it simple. Select products that are formulated to be used together.

1-Step Method for Swirls & Light Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Paint Perfection Glaze one-step cleaner/wax sealant with an orbital polisher and a polishing or cutting pad.

2-Step Method for Light Scratches, Swirls & Moderate Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Light Cut Swirl Remover with an orbital polisher and polishing or cutting pads. Follow with a Paste Wax, Liquid Wax or Wax Sealant by hand, or orbital polisher and a finishing pad.

3-Step Method for Scratches, Acid Rain Etching & Heavy Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Medium Cut or Extreme Cut Paint Leveler with a rotary polisher and a polishing or cutting pad. Follow with Hi-Temp Light Cut using an orbital polisher and a polishing pad. Top off with a Paste Wax, Liquid Wax or Wax Sealant by hand, or with an orbital polisher and a finishing pad.

Their point about keeping your detailing process simple is probably the best advice that anyone can give. I have seen this first-hand. When I first got my E60, I swore to myself that I would take care of the paint as best I could. So I began by washing the car twice a week. Then I would wax it once a month. After about 3 months, I decided it was time to do a big detail job. So I spent a good part of the day working on it.

I started by washing, drying, and then used the clay bar.

Next I used some Light Powercut Leveler with my Cyclo orbital polisher and foam cutting pads. This was to reduce the swirl marks.

I followed this with Klasse All-in-One Polish, applied by hand.

Next I used some Trade Secret carnauba paste wax, applied by hand.


When I finished the car looked great. But the next morning I woke up and noticed the hood had a foggy look to it. I figured it was just morning dew, since I live in Florida and it gets REALLY humid and steamy in my garage. When I drove outside, the hazy look disappeared in the sunlight. However, anytime I parked in the garage.... the paint got that hazy look to it again. It drove me nuts.

Well, I contacted the people at Top of the Line. I told them my process, and they replied to me with nearly the exact same answer to the one listed above. I used too many steps.


They told me to start over, but this time don't use the Klasse. Just do the Leveler and then wax. I followed their advice, and the problem was solved. No more hazy look.


So.... moral of the story is... detailing really should be kept simple for the best results.

Now I just use wax every 2 months, unless I see swirl marks... in which case I use the Leveler and then wax.
Old 06-08-2006, 07:36 PM
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Blitz Wax for durability. P21S for depth of shine but not as durable or long-lasting. Sonax Liquid if you're going to use a machine but you can't get it in the US anymore
Old 06-09-2006, 01:29 AM
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What is the best/cheapest webshop that will ship a bottle of Rejex to Norway?
Old 06-09-2006, 01:50 AM
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What do you guys think about 3M?
Old 06-09-2006, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by PoleApart' post='294674' date='Jun 8 2006, 11:23 PM
Only Autoglym for my babies
bratanki , each to his own, but the same here AutoGlym Heaven! re(minder) post http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=23562
Old 06-09-2006, 02:19 AM
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S100 is the same thing as p21s, but is cheaper and can be found at your local harley or bike shop.
Old 06-09-2006, 02:24 AM
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Monaco Blue is a freaking beast to keep clean. EVERYTHING shows up. I've got a local Autopia detailer who did polish and 2 coats about 4 weeks ago. Water runs off beautifully due to 2 layers he used. I end up using Sonus detailing spritz and my California Duster almost every day and my car looks immaculate. That spritz stuff is simply amazing.
Old 06-09-2006, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rjcastr' post='294706' date='Jun 8 2006, 05:55 PM
Can someone post a link of the article that rates these waxes. I hear that most people who do a 5 step wax detail on their car are wasting their time, that there are a lot of one step wax compounds that are just as great like Meguiars NXT that's just what i have heard, ive also heard that synthetic is not so great for your paint.

Can anyone confirm?
Go to www.autopia.org I'm sure you will find what your looking for if not just ask and some one
will help you out with that or any other detail questions you have.
cheers
vern


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