Best Car Wax
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REJEX
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From: Seattle, Wa.
My Ride: 2006 550i Titanium Silver Metallic, Black Dakota Leather, Anthracite Maple Wood Trim, Cold Weather Package, Premium Sound Package, Sport Package, Steptronic, Navigation, Electric Rear Sunshades, Heated Rear Seats, Sirius Radio
Originally Posted by dgdoc' post='294833' date='Jun 8 2006, 08:47 PM
Sealant, then wax on top is a fairly popular technique. Most sealants provide protection but lack "depth". Applying a wax on top is supposed to give the best of both worlds.
I did this for a while with the Klasse stuff followed by P21S for the top layer. Recently, I've switched over to Zaino because it seems to be less work to get the same results.
I did this for a while with the Klasse stuff followed by P21S for the top layer. Recently, I've switched over to Zaino because it seems to be less work to get the same results.
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From: Winter Park, FL
My Ride: 2005 545i (SMG)
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I have been purchasing my detailing products from a great website.
Top of the Line
They have everything you could possibly need, and they are VERY helpful if you have questions. They also have a nice tips section with Q&A, etc...
Here is a reply from them to a Question:
Their point about keeping your detailing process simple is probably the best advice that anyone can give. I have seen this first-hand. When I first got my E60, I swore to myself that I would take care of the paint as best I could. So I began by washing the car twice a week. Then I would wax it once a month. After about 3 months, I decided it was time to do a big detail job. So I spent a good part of the day working on it.
I started by washing, drying, and then used the clay bar.
Next I used some Light Powercut Leveler with my Cyclo orbital polisher and foam cutting pads. This was to reduce the swirl marks.
I followed this with Klasse All-in-One Polish, applied by hand.
Next I used some Trade Secret carnauba paste wax, applied by hand.
When I finished the car looked great. But the next morning I woke up and noticed the hood had a foggy look to it. I figured it was just morning dew, since I live in Florida and it gets REALLY humid and steamy in my garage. When I drove outside, the hazy look disappeared in the sunlight. However, anytime I parked in the garage.... the paint got that hazy look to it again. It drove me nuts.
Well, I contacted the people at Top of the Line. I told them my process, and they replied to me with nearly the exact same answer to the one listed above. I used too many steps.
They told me to start over, but this time don't use the Klasse. Just do the Leveler and then wax. I followed their advice, and the problem was solved. No more hazy look.
So.... moral of the story is... detailing really should be kept simple for the best results.
Now I just use wax every 2 months, unless I see swirl marks... in which case I use the Leveler and then wax.
Top of the Line
They have everything you could possibly need, and they are VERY helpful if you have questions. They also have a nice tips section with Q&A, etc...
Here is a reply from them to a Question:
Question:
I have been detailing for 10 years, both professionally and as a hobby. I recently purchased your Cyclo polisher. I have been able to attain "better than average" finishes on cars. Both compound and polishing processes pose no problems but, I really have trouble with the glaze and sealer drying up, sticking to the finish and smearing causing black blotches. The end result is not pretty. The glaze and sealer are supposed to be idiot proof, so will I ever get past these inconsistencies? I am open to ideas or straight up advice.
Answer:
You are performing too many steps, using too much product on the pads, and using products that are incompatible. Paint preparation and waxing should be a very simple process requiring no more than two steps; three at the most on cars with severe problems. Clean up the process and make it simple. Select products that are formulated to be used together.
1-Step Method for Swirls & Light Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Paint Perfection Glaze one-step cleaner/wax sealant with an orbital polisher and a polishing or cutting pad.
2-Step Method for Light Scratches, Swirls & Moderate Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Light Cut Swirl Remover with an orbital polisher and polishing or cutting pads. Follow with a Paste Wax, Liquid Wax or Wax Sealant by hand, or orbital polisher and a finishing pad.
3-Step Method for Scratches, Acid Rain Etching & Heavy Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Medium Cut or Extreme Cut Paint Leveler with a rotary polisher and a polishing or cutting pad. Follow with Hi-Temp Light Cut using an orbital polisher and a polishing pad. Top off with a Paste Wax, Liquid Wax or Wax Sealant by hand, or with an orbital polisher and a finishing pad.
I have been detailing for 10 years, both professionally and as a hobby. I recently purchased your Cyclo polisher. I have been able to attain "better than average" finishes on cars. Both compound and polishing processes pose no problems but, I really have trouble with the glaze and sealer drying up, sticking to the finish and smearing causing black blotches. The end result is not pretty. The glaze and sealer are supposed to be idiot proof, so will I ever get past these inconsistencies? I am open to ideas or straight up advice.
Answer:
You are performing too many steps, using too much product on the pads, and using products that are incompatible. Paint preparation and waxing should be a very simple process requiring no more than two steps; three at the most on cars with severe problems. Clean up the process and make it simple. Select products that are formulated to be used together.
1-Step Method for Swirls & Light Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Paint Perfection Glaze one-step cleaner/wax sealant with an orbital polisher and a polishing or cutting pad.
2-Step Method for Light Scratches, Swirls & Moderate Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Light Cut Swirl Remover with an orbital polisher and polishing or cutting pads. Follow with a Paste Wax, Liquid Wax or Wax Sealant by hand, or orbital polisher and a finishing pad.
3-Step Method for Scratches, Acid Rain Etching & Heavy Oxidation: Apply Hi-Temp Medium Cut or Extreme Cut Paint Leveler with a rotary polisher and a polishing or cutting pad. Follow with Hi-Temp Light Cut using an orbital polisher and a polishing pad. Top off with a Paste Wax, Liquid Wax or Wax Sealant by hand, or with an orbital polisher and a finishing pad.
Their point about keeping your detailing process simple is probably the best advice that anyone can give. I have seen this first-hand. When I first got my E60, I swore to myself that I would take care of the paint as best I could. So I began by washing the car twice a week. Then I would wax it once a month. After about 3 months, I decided it was time to do a big detail job. So I spent a good part of the day working on it.
I started by washing, drying, and then used the clay bar.
Next I used some Light Powercut Leveler with my Cyclo orbital polisher and foam cutting pads. This was to reduce the swirl marks.
I followed this with Klasse All-in-One Polish, applied by hand.
Next I used some Trade Secret carnauba paste wax, applied by hand.
When I finished the car looked great. But the next morning I woke up and noticed the hood had a foggy look to it. I figured it was just morning dew, since I live in Florida and it gets REALLY humid and steamy in my garage. When I drove outside, the hazy look disappeared in the sunlight. However, anytime I parked in the garage.... the paint got that hazy look to it again. It drove me nuts.
Well, I contacted the people at Top of the Line. I told them my process, and they replied to me with nearly the exact same answer to the one listed above. I used too many steps.
They told me to start over, but this time don't use the Klasse. Just do the Leveler and then wax. I followed their advice, and the problem was solved. No more hazy look.
So.... moral of the story is... detailing really should be kept simple for the best results.
Now I just use wax every 2 months, unless I see swirl marks... in which case I use the Leveler and then wax.
Contributors
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,102
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From: Northern NJ, USA
My Ride: 2011 M3 Convertible, Alpine White/black, 6 speed
2011 535xi Tasmin Green, Venetian Beige
Blitz Wax for durability. P21S for depth of shine but not as durable or long-lasting. Sonax Liquid if you're going to use a machine but you can't get it in the US anymore 
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From: MIAMI B*CH
My Ride: MY RIDE is DA real .-) HAMANN 5 aka BLACK MAMBA born on 16/06/2005/delivered on 05/08/2005 as following:
530dA (steptronic), Black II (JET), leather Dakota auburn black, mapple trim, head-up display, dynamic drive, active steering, adaptive xenon headlights (auto levelling) with headlight washers, alarm, comfort seats with massage function, advanced A/C, big compartment armrest, aux-in, MP3, Logic 7, Radio PRO, CD in-dash+cd changer, power rear sunshades, rear airbags, park distance control, auto dimming folding mirrors, smoking package, shiny shadow line (individual), fold down rear seats, ski bag, sport suspension, run flats on �116-style� rims (Good Year NCT5+), cup holders, debadged, fire extinguishers, additional permanent power outlet, BMW coat hanger, trunk release button (installed by Hobi), GPS tracking device and a big thx 2 Iceman.
Mods done:
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10.5 J x 20 only RA Item No.: 91 207 625
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Still to do list;-):
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� Individual leather interior (auburn+auburn alcantara)... and drive with sheer drivin' pleasure ... until 2009/2010 F10 comes or E60 possibly a 540d V8 diesel early in 2009 badly juiced!
Originally Posted by PoleApart' post='294674' date='Jun 8 2006, 11:23 PM
Only Autoglym for my babies 
, each to his own, but the same here AutoGlym Heaven! re(minder) post http://forums.e60.net/index.php?showtopic=23562
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From: Alexandria, VA
My Ride: Currently: (3/1/06) 2002 530i black on black prem, sport, cold, xenon.
Monaco Blue is a freaking beast to keep clean. EVERYTHING shows up. I've got a local Autopia detailer who did polish and 2 coats about 4 weeks ago. Water runs off beautifully due to 2 layers he used. I end up using Sonus detailing spritz and my California Duster almost every day and my car looks immaculate. That spritz stuff is simply amazing.
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My Ride: 2001 BMW330ci, Steel Gray, Black leather, Steptronic, PP, SP, PDC, Heated seats, Xenon head lights, HK, 6 disk changer, OEM alarm, OEM clears,Iice white fog lights ,Universal trasnciver, 17 inch Michelin Pilot Sport Tires
2005 530i Titanium Gray,Black leather, Nav.,HUD,PP,CWP,SP,PDC,Xenon lights,Steptronic,Logic 7 sound system,,Fold down read seats,Power shades
ON ORDER
Originally Posted by rjcastr' post='294706' date='Jun 8 2006, 05:55 PM
Can someone post a link of the article that rates these waxes. I hear that most people who do a 5 step wax detail on their car are wasting their time, that there are a lot of one step wax compounds that are just as great like Meguiars NXT that's just what i have heard, ive also heard that synthetic is not so great for your paint.
Can anyone confirm?
Can anyone confirm?
will help you out with that or any other detail questions you have.
cheers
vern