norsecarnut

My car won't respond at all the the remote key fobs now.... service thinks also in the same rear hatch area.... massive $$$ to investigate and fix.

Any ideas on which wires specifically for the remote key controller?

cbolan

When my remote key fobs stopped working, I replaced the Diversity Antenna to resolve the issue. There's a known problem where water leaks in and corrodes the circuit board.

norsecarnut

oh, that's right, the circuit board. I'm not going to pay the dealer hours to just pull all this stuff apart. I should at least do the digging in to find wires and whatever, splice new wires where obvious per this thread, then see where it stands.

Lotus99

Replacing the diversity module is a piece of cake. I wonder if you buy the part, do the repair, and it's still a problem (perhaps it is your tailgate wires that are the problem), you can return it? If you open up the case, it's easy to spot if there's rust or not. I recall posting up a few pictures when I did mine.

If you do replace it, make sure you seal the edges of the plastic casing that holds it with some Silicone also, to minimize water ingress down the road, and get the foam spacers too.

norsecarnut

Did you post any photos of how/where to access this?

Is it any of these parts like #2 :

2008 BMW 535xi Parts -

Lotus99

Here you go some TSB's. First you remove spoiler, then you get to the module. If you search under my name, you'll probably find my post with some pics I took of mine when I opened it.

norsecarnut

Should this also provide access to the wires I'll need to fix that caused the right rear tail lamp (on the hatch) to go out and the license plate lamps to go out?

mitchgixer6

Have a look a few pages back and you'll see my guide on fixing the wiring looms including how to get into them.

mantraguy

A couple of years ago, I had to replace the diversity module circuit board, but I sealed it up well and used a silicone spray coating over it before installing it, to protect it from corrosion. I haven't had a problem with it since.

I just re-wired all of the right side tailgate wires, most of which lead to the diversity antenna module area. Before re-doing the wires, I had no radio reception and the glass tailgate would pop open upon releasing the brake pedal (weird, right?!). Re-wiring solved all those issues, but now my remote locking / unlocking doesn't work. Tried both key fobs, and nothing. I've also tried re-initializing them with no luck. Anyone have any ideas? All I can think of is that, despite being quite careful, perhaps I touched a couple of wires together while re-doing them (I didn't disconnect the battery while doing it). I've checked the obvious fuses and found no problems.

One other thing that I thought was a bit odd... since doing the re-wiring job, the audio source always resets to FM radio. That is, if I'm listening to anything else (ie iPod through the AUX channel, etc.) and turn off the car, when I get back in and turn the car on, it goes back to FM radio. All the channels are still programmed etc., but it never used to 'default' to FM radio - it would just 'remember' what source I was last listening to. Can't help but think these issues are related - maybe I joined the wrong wires or something?! Like I said, I was really careful so I can't see how I might have done that. Anyone have a wiring schematic or anything?

Zemtem

Hi all
New member
Thanks to all that posted in this thread, just read the whole thing and it helped out with the fix I have started.
An easy way I found to remove the plastic pins that hold the cable guides to the hinge was a small Allen key to push it through, hope this helps.
My problem was a fault on the left number plate bulb, bulb was fine but no voltage on the live. I traced it back to a bodge someone had done in the cable guide as they had used brown tape, so easy to spot. Anyway after a lot of messing around and trying to fix a bodge I ended up running a new live from the right light to the left to fix the problem.
Now all that remains is to fix the error message. I have been trying to fix the cable that was bodged, they had run a new cable from just after cable guide, through the cable guide itself then through rubber grommet and then through grill inside speaker housing then into rest of car and then God knows where! I can only assume it's to another light maybe.
I have traced back the original wire for the left light to the light control module and I cannot get a live from it to the cable, could the original broken wire in the cable guide earthing have damaged the lcm?
And is there a way to trick the lcm into thinking I have a working bulb? By maybe putting the correct number of coils of cable on it to imitate a working bulb?
Any thoughts would be most appreciated
Thanks