norsecarnut

Why did you use the non-insulated connector instead of the insulated version?

I see that with the heat shrink you can cover/protect further, a longer section but that could have been placed over the insulated version too - maybe?

I know nothing about wiring except that connections need to be clean, secure, and then protected.

How was the factory wire gauge determined?

tortoiseracing

I used the non-insulated connector for a number of reasons:

• I've seen the insulation come off of a connector before. Then, you need to either add heat shrink or electrical tape to insulate it.
• The non-insulated connectors are smaller than the insulated ones. Once you put the heat shrink over it, it looks much cleaner.
• You have a better visual of the crimp with non-insulated connectors, to make sure it looks good and secure.

norsecarnut

Thanks. Very good reasons. Did you add any extra length? I suppose it may not be necessary but I was thinking more length could help in better routing so it doesn't happen again in 5 years.

That's how I'll do it when I've finally had enough of seeing the lamp fault and being required to use either the interior button or key fob for trunk release.

tortoiseracing

I added about 12" of length to each wire. That's probably a bit much, but I wanted to make sure there was enough for everything to move freely without binding.

norsecarnut

How long did it take you to do it? Unless you were already very familiar with wiring and removal of interior panels, how long do you think the full job should take?

My dealer quoted about $700 to do this "repair" approach instead of just replacing the whole loom with expensive parts nearly doubling the cost. Considering the "repair" job would be minimal materials costs, that $700 is all labor.

I plan to do it myself but am just curious if the dealer quote seems on track with the time required. Keeping in mind they ought to be more efficient with removing panels and having the wiring and such on hand already.

andystone

After repairing mine I wouldn't entertain paying somebody to do it! Its fiddly but an easy job.

norsecarnut

wonderful opinion but looking for facts such as total time people have needed.

I installed my sway bars and oil catch can which were pretty direct but time consuming in some ways. Still very worth the DIY even if just to become more familiar with the vehicle.

Jax of Marlow

Just read this thread with dismay. My 2010 E61 is in Sytner Maidenhead now. Same issues, failed number plate lights, right fog and reversing lights, centre brake light and failed boot handle. £1000 plus VAT for new loom (and this after being charged £600 earlier this year for wiring repairs on the left hand side impacting the rear de-mister). Arghhhhhhhhh Sytner said they will "talk" to BMW but not hopeful. This car is not five years old yet. Surely there is something wrong in the way these parts are fitted.

gigity1107

I started the work on this myself yesterday. From what I gather, my problem is on the right hinge on the left side of the boot, It was all going swimmingly using the guides posted in here until I got to the actual removal of the loom. I couldn't get the loom free of the black hinge thingy. How do you split them open? Also, to remove the loom, do you just cut the wires that are attached to the connector at the end? I couldn't see how I could remove the loom without cutting it away from the connector.

gigity1107

BTW, it's my demister and rear wiper that are causing my issues.