Strange electronic problem
01-28-2015, 07:43 AM
#11
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My Ride: 2010 535 xi - M Sport Pkg & other goodies
Great that you solved the problem. Related to the "high" voltage on your battery. That is the reason why you MUST code the new battery to the car. All the charging electronics need to know that there is a new battery and its amps characteristics in order to correctly charge and adjust settings. I would drive by a BMW dealer and ask for it to be coded. It is not more than 15 min of work.
But a new battery that's the same size and specs (lead vs. AGM) as the original does NOT need coding. Registration is not the same as coding. As I said above, you can even register a new battery using an iPhone with an app for it.Coding is need when you're changing the specs of the battery or going from lead to AGM.
01-28-2015, 12:22 PM
#12
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My Ride: E61 525i 2005, F11 528i 2012
Model Year: 2012
Not to get caught up on semantics... But a new battery that's the same size and specs (lead vs. AGM) as the original does NOT need coding. Registration is not the same as coding. As I said above, you can even register a new battery using an iPhone with an app for it.
Coding is need when you're changing the specs of the battery or going from lead to AGM.
But a new battery that's the same size and specs (lead vs. AGM) as the original does NOT need coding. Registration is not the same as coding. As I said above, you can even register a new battery using an iPhone with an app for it.Coding is need when you're changing the specs of the battery or going from lead to AGM.
01-28-2015, 08:33 PM
#13
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My Ride: 520D E61 LCI 11/2007
Well for the moment I did not have time yet to really look at the coding/registration issue.
And new problems are rising again....
Since last week I have been getting the warning for the DPF again.
The car had this problem when I bought it last year, probably should have had a longer testdrive...
But after some long highway drives the problem went away.
Last week I have been doing allot of short distances and since the computer was most of the time in funky mode (see last problem) it probably never had the chance to regenerate.
But that is not my biggest problem...
Today when driving to work (after 30 min of driving when turning up the highway) I noticed that I had a pretty big gab in my powercurve.
From 3rd gear and up I get from about 1900-2100 rpm a power drop(rpm keeps rising but allot slower), then a short rise followed by another drop in which the rpm steadily rises till 2500-2600 rpm and then all the power coms back.
When I am in that 2nd gab (2200-2600rpm) I can put my gas pedal in in any position (floor it) that does not change anything.
So even when I'm starting from 1500rpm and floor it,
it always keeps the same curve:
normal rise til about 2000rpm,
first short drop,
small rise in power,
2nd drop and slow acceleration until 2600rpm,
and then normal power again.
Could this be related to the DPF fault?
I can't remember the car doing this the last time I had the fault.
Thanks in advance!
And new problems are rising again....
Since last week I have been getting the warning for the DPF again.
The car had this problem when I bought it last year, probably should have had a longer testdrive...
But after some long highway drives the problem went away.
Last week I have been doing allot of short distances and since the computer was most of the time in funky mode (see last problem) it probably never had the chance to regenerate.
But that is not my biggest problem...
Today when driving to work (after 30 min of driving when turning up the highway) I noticed that I had a pretty big gab in my powercurve.
From 3rd gear and up I get from about 1900-2100 rpm a power drop(rpm keeps rising but allot slower), then a short rise followed by another drop in which the rpm steadily rises till 2500-2600 rpm and then all the power coms back.
When I am in that 2nd gab (2200-2600rpm) I can put my gas pedal in in any position (floor it) that does not change anything.
So even when I'm starting from 1500rpm and floor it,
it always keeps the same curve:
normal rise til about 2000rpm,
first short drop,
small rise in power,
2nd drop and slow acceleration until 2600rpm,
and then normal power again.
Could this be related to the DPF fault?
I can't remember the car doing this the last time I had the fault.
Thanks in advance!
01-28-2015, 08:37 PM
#14
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My Ride: 520D E61 LCI 11/2007
Not to get caught up on semantics... But a new battery that's the same size and specs (lead vs. AGM) as the original does NOT need coding. Registration is not the same as coding. As I said above, you can even register a new battery using an iPhone with an app for it.
Coding is need when you're changing the specs of the battery or going from lead to AGM.
But a new battery that's the same size and specs (lead vs. AGM) as the original does NOT need coding. Registration is not the same as coding. As I said above, you can even register a new battery using an iPhone with an app for it.Coding is need when you're changing the specs of the battery or going from lead to AGM.
I have been looking at the BMWhat app thingy and it looks pretty nice.
Can Anyone confirm you can also force a regeneration of the dpf this way?
Last year I bought the software and cable from BMcables.com but I can' t get it to connect to my car
01-29-2015, 09:40 AM
#16
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My Ride: 520D E61 LCI 11/2007
I will do that Lotus thx
But meanwhile the saga continues,
while searching the net I was going to start the troubleshooting by cheking the MAP sensor, but really have not been having time today.
For the DPF I 'm looking for a good additive to try to get it a little cleaner, "Forte" keeps coming back in allot of thread's.
Any experience with that product here?
But looking at all those tread's gave me some factors that need to be fulfilled before the car will even try to regenerate on his own.
These include: -fueltank should be above 25%
-continious (higher) speed for a certain time (highway cruise I guess)
-engine watertemp has to be above 80 I believe
The first two are not a problem, the 3rd I had to check.
So Before I headed home from work I activated the hidden menu and put the watertemp on.
Result: on a 1 hour drive with mixed small roads, allot of traffic and some highway stretches the never got over 70°
When I was cruising at 125kmph it even dropped to 59°
So I know suspect the thermostat to be the cause of the car not regenerating, causing the DPF to clog which may be related to the cause of the power loss...
Am I loosing it or is this a plausable plot?
And if it is the thermostat, I assume it is this one:
http://www.leebmann24.de/thermostat-...517805192.html
But meanwhile the saga continues,
while searching the net I was going to start the troubleshooting by cheking the MAP sensor, but really have not been having time today.
For the DPF I 'm looking for a good additive to try to get it a little cleaner, "Forte" keeps coming back in allot of thread's.
Any experience with that product here?
But looking at all those tread's gave me some factors that need to be fulfilled before the car will even try to regenerate on his own.
These include: -fueltank should be above 25%
-continious (higher) speed for a certain time (highway cruise I guess)
-engine watertemp has to be above 80 I believe
The first two are not a problem, the 3rd I had to check.
So Before I headed home from work I activated the hidden menu and put the watertemp on.
Result: on a 1 hour drive with mixed small roads, allot of traffic and some highway stretches the never got over 70°
When I was cruising at 125kmph it even dropped to 59°
So I know suspect the thermostat to be the cause of the car not regenerating, causing the DPF to clog which may be related to the cause of the power loss...
Am I loosing it or is this a plausable plot?
And if it is the thermostat, I assume it is this one:
http://www.leebmann24.de/thermostat-...517805192.html
Last edited by Kawa86; 01-29-2015 at 09:50 AM.
01-29-2015, 10:21 PM
#18
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My Ride: 520D E61 LCI 11/2007
But I have the newer model with the cat and dpf combined, any idea if you can use the same procedure without damaging the cat?
02-17-2015, 12:20 AM
#20
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My Ride: Silver 530D SE
I have a similar problem.
After car wash or overnight heavy rain, and within 20 seconds of driving off, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen goes dark, headlights go off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero
I disconnected the Intelligent Battery Sensor and the car ran fine for about 10 days, however there wasn’t any really heavy rain nor did I use the car wash. With the IBS disconnected, the startup sequence (all lights going out on dash from initial turn of ignition key) seems to be about 2 seconds quicker.
During the 10 days, I started the car before the DSC and within 20 seconds of driving off, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. This was after a dry night.
Yesterday I went to the car wash and overnight heavy rain and guess what, same problem, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. I’ve checked the boot and its bone dry.
This is driving me crazy. L
After car wash or overnight heavy rain, and within 20 seconds of driving off, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen goes dark, headlights go off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero
I disconnected the Intelligent Battery Sensor and the car ran fine for about 10 days, however there wasn’t any really heavy rain nor did I use the car wash. With the IBS disconnected, the startup sequence (all lights going out on dash from initial turn of ignition key) seems to be about 2 seconds quicker.
During the 10 days, I started the car before the DSC and within 20 seconds of driving off, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. This was after a dry night.
Yesterday I went to the car wash and overnight heavy rain and guess what, same problem, all of the lights on the dash lit up, the idrive screen went dark, headlights went off, DSC failure, window trap failure, run flat failure and the speedo dropped to zero. I’ve checked the boot and its bone dry.
This is driving me crazy. L
