ccr0ss

Hey guys,

I am still new to the site and getting a hang on it, but I wanted to write a kind of build log and DIY guide for a retrofit I am currently working on. I did the CIC retrofit on my 09 535iX about two years ago (I paid more than 2k for it), but grew tired of the same old functions and limitations of the retrofit. After all, we don't get much other than a slightly faster head unit, and better software aesthetics. So, I decided to install a computer on my car to run as a main head unit for navigation, audio, phone integration and to add a couple of handy features to my car. I bought the parts and build the computer myself, and I will try to be as clear as possible so anyone can try this mod if they are up for the challenge.

Now, to the bone.

The new head unit is going to be a Windows-based (or maybe Linux down the road) computer with the following capabilities:
1. Touchscreen display
2. Complete voice control
3. Phone integration (Bluetooth calling, music streaming, message-reading/replying by voice)
4. On-board diagnostics (JB4 software, BMW Ediabas, and a simple diagnostic app)
6. Video playback and recording
7. Audio processing and playback; fully functional auxiliary input
8. GPS-enabled navigation (I have tried Microsoft Maps and it works good so far, but I might try other software to compare)
9. WIFI (for connecting to hotspot, I do not want my car to turn into a hotspot)
10. Rear-view camera (I believe you can install several cameras and program them to work depending on what you do on the vehicle, i.e. backing up, turning left/right, turning on engine, etc., but a couple of devices are needed in order to achieve all that)
11. Steering wheel controls
12. Any other feature I could make a computer do, I should be able to do on my car (like gaming, office productivity, image/video editing, even diagnostics for another vehicle). The sky is the limit.

This is the hardware I decided to go with, but you can accommodate some of the parts and save money. I'll help you guys the best I can to choose good parts:

Infotainment Computer

• Case: Mini-Box M350 Mini-ITX case $40
• Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI $114 (I chose this one because I have had good experience with Gigabyte and because it had an Gen3 m.2 port for the hard drive)
• Processor: Intel i3-6100 $125 (I think this processor is powerful enough to handle all the task most people would run on a car flawlessly. You can go higher/lower depending on your budget/needs).
• Memory: 8GB DD4-2400 G.SKILL NS 8GB F4-2400C15S-8GNS $32 (I chose this memory because of the programs I might be running on my computer, but the lower the size the faster it will wake up from sleep--not a canonical law since the hard drive plays a very important role on boot and wake-up times).
• Hard Drive: Samsung SM951 AHCI 512GB Solid-State Drive $280 (I went way overboard with this one in terms of size, but I already had one laying around; so, no problem. Now, the two fastest consumer-grade solid-state drives in the market right now are the Samsung 950 Pro and the Samsung SM951 NVMe. You can get the first one for about $188 ( 256GB ) and the second one for $100 ( 128GB ). I doubt anything higher than 100GB is necessary on a car, maybe half of that is more than enough, but these are the best you can get for any car.
• Power Supply: M4-ATX 250w DC-DC power supply $85

Total $676. You Could save anywhere from $100 to $200 depending on the hard drive you choose. So, you could build a fast infotainment computer for about $475 or even less.

Infotainment Screen

• Screen Panel: AUO B101UAN02.1 10.1" 1920x1200 IPS screen panel $40
• Controller Board: M.NT68676.2A $40
• Touchscreen Digitizer: 228x149mm 4-wire Resistive Touchscreen Digitizer $40
• Power Regulator: 12v-to-5v DC-DC Converter/Regulator $5

Total $125

Audio Processing
You could tap into the factory AMP, but it might require some cutting and tapping into the wiring harness depending on how you choose to do it. You could get a small amplifier from like the JoyCon CPJ D-AMP 90 4.1-5.1 Channel AMP (and I mean, really small), or just get the JBL MS-8 sound processor or something like Pyle PLMRA830BT for about $220 on Amazon. You can also get the Helix 8-Channel DSP (very affordable on eBay) and you can have all audio EQ settings displayed in your computer for adjustment (just better CarComputer Infotainment integration if you want to). I decided to go with the MS-8 since I already had one for the main speakers and another amplifier for the subs, but you can be creative here. I also got an extra amplifier for the subs.
Total is up to you

Peripherals

• CSR8645 CSR 4.0 Bluetooth Audio Receiver $20. You can find cheaper USB receiver/transmitters in eBay (like $8 or so). I decided to go with this one because it has a very good sound processing/noise cancelling chip.
• DC-DC Converter/Regulator $5
• Andrea Electronics DA350 Multi-Element Array Microphone $32-$50. You do not need an array microphone to make this setup work, but an array microphone will help with echo and voice clarity. I will be using this mic for both the computer and the bluetooth module.
• OBD2 Splicer Male to Dual Female Extension $7 + Bracket $6. The computer will always be connected to the OBD2 for data log and funny stuff, but I need an extra port to be open just in case I need to connect an external device to it.
• GlobalSat BU353-S4 USB GPS Receiver $30
• USB HD Camera $20-60. Choose the one you want, even a webcam, just consider the capture range (preferably 170 degree), good infrared/night vision capabilities and weatherproof
• JoyCon Ex(c/d/x) $60-100. This will allow you to use the steering wheel controls with the computer and control the presentation of the rear-view camera on the main display. I believe it is possible to add more than one JoyCon Ex to the car in order to control stuff such as extra cameras (i.e. side cameras, front cameras) and physical controls such as the iDrive controller.
• CMOS 170° Angle Night Vision Rear-View Camera $11. You can get different styles of cameras on eBay anywhere from $11 to $50. I chose to drill a whole in the trunk to make it look better, but that is completely optional.
• Easycap USB 2.0 Capture Card $9. The reason you need this is to avoid having to buy an USB camera (needed for the JoyCon to properly control rear-view), which is going to be considerably more expensive than the RCA/AV alternatives.

Total $200-298

Cables, connectors and miscellaneous
I will update this section as soon as I finish the installation, but I calculate this is going to cost anywhere from $100-$300

Software
I will also update this section as soon as I start testing everything, but so far I am using Windows 10, AIMP (for music), MPC (Media Player Classic, for videos), Maps (for navigation). There is an application I use for phone integration that seems to be working fine so far, but it is installed on the car computer and I am using my desktop. I will let you guys know as soon as I finish the install

The grand total for this operation is anywhere between $900 to $1399 plus anything you expend on the audio system and software.

ccr0ss

Here is the general diagram for the project. I will later upload a diagram for item locations and cable routing

UPDATE: I added some information on the rear-view setup to the diagram. Now, I am using an USB capture card to connect the camera to the computer, making it easier to choose a rear-view camera (since you can use any RCA/AV camera)

bapeforceone

Great work so far, subbed.

ccr0ss

Thanks, man. I will soon be posting a diagram for the location of each of the parts in the diagram and after that I will start uploading the pics of what I have done so far.

BostonJon

very cool concept. looking forward to watching your progress.

ccr0ss

Thanks. I will be uploading pictures of my progress so far later this week. I have routed most of the wires/cables already (except for the SMA antenna cables for the WIFI and the wires for rear speakers. Most of the wires for the front speakers are already done, but I have not finished connecting those wires to the connector in the front doors (I lost my 90 degree screwdriver, and you need it to take the connector out )

judahzlion

Hello, how is the progress this last month??

ccr0ss

Hey, guys. I am sorry I took so long to update the thread, finishing research project is taking me too much time. Anyways, I am uploading a proposed location diagram for the parts in this build. So far I have been able to complete most of the wiring (except for soldering 4 pins and running a remote cable from the PC power supply to the JBL MS-8, which I am going to complete in the next two weeks).

ccr0ss

INFOTAINMENT COMPUTER

This is the computer already assembled on the case without the top lid.


With the motherboard power cables already on it




I had to drill a bigger whole to make space for the 24 + 4 wires for the power cables and the 2 wires for the power switch and cut a section of the left wall of the whole for the wires. I used grommets from AutoZone to protect the wires from getting damaged by the metal wall of the whole. I also cut a little bit of the grommet in order to introduce the cables into it. I put the main cable (24-pin) into the bigger whole and drilled a bigger whole for the secondary power wire (4-pin) and the power switch wires (2-pin, black connector).


I cut the 4-pin cable and the 2-pin power switch wire and in order to pass them through the whole and later weld them together and used some heat shrinks to protect the welded spots.




After inserting the cables into the grommet, I turned the grommet about 180 degrees to conceal the cut in the grommet.


I also added a 2-pin connector for the power switch (black connector).

judahzlion

ccrOss,

Thanks for the update. I am sure several E60 or similar car owners will attempt to build one like you. It sounds like an exciting and new design.
Once done I need to build one just like yours. Great job please continue updating your progress and good luck.