Ticking lifters.
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Initially had my lifters replaced from the dealer under warranty for ticking noise. Ticking came back 3 months after the lifter replacement. Dealer then replaced the entire cylinder head.
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It's post like these that make me think it's actually not normal and needs attention. I wouldn't think the dealer would change out something so you don't have to hear the noise anymore. I think they would change out an entire head because it could potentially lead to serious problems eh? Just my opinion.
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My Ride: 2006 525i Msport Professional
Same issue with 2006 525i just one lifter and only sometimes. Oil Changed every 10000 km. Put in 200ml Auto fluid in engine. Noise gone in 1 day. Came back 6 weeks later added another 200ML Noise gone. Waited another 2 weeks and changed oil. Lots of small crap held in suspension on oil being drained. Changed oil and no noise – need to wait and see if it comes back. I think ATK high in detergent and dispersant so it cleans and holds crap in suspension so it can be drained / flushed out.
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My Ride: 2007 BMW 530xi, 3.0L I6, 6-spd Automatic, 255 hp; 2011 Chevy Camaro 3.6L V6, Direct Injection, 6-spd Automatic, 312 hp
I looked on another forum and they said adding Hyperlube ZRA (Zinc Replacement Additive) (there is no zinc in it, its a replacement, its only a Polymer Ester polar molecule oil additive) fixed the tick in the N52 engine. So I tried it and it worked.!! I was getting consistent repeated ticking but not after putting just a half-dose (half bottle) in the oil.
Other fixes that others have reported have been LiquiMoly MOS2 additive, just using Castrol 0w-30 or 0w-40, Gunk 5-Minute Motor Flush before an oil change. (One BMW owner said he thought Mobil1 0w-40 did NOT cure the ticking.)
All the above is easy to do, and in my case just throwing in a half-bottle of Hyperlube ZRA means no more ticking for me. I haven't heard it again in about 10 startups now, and it was ticking almost all the time before.
From the BMW TSB on the ticking issue with the N52 engine:
CAUSE
In these situations, the HVA elements may not yet have been supplied with sufficient amounts of air-free oil. This condition will not cause any damage to the engine, and usually remedies itself with a longer driving distance or operating times at full operating temperature.
This is a load, annoying embarassment to BMW, who tries to make the best engines around. Car buyers paying $50,000 plus for a car don't want to hear it. I think it might slightly damage the wear surfaces since the lifters position the rockers.
Its aeration foaming, just a slight amount thats doing it, with maybe some slight varnish or gunk build-up. Not sure.
Maybe not just any BMW LL-01 oil. Some have said Castrol 0w-30 or Castrol 0w-40 (5-quart jugs for cheap at Walmart) cure it, but M1 0w-40 does not. I'd consider Redline 0w-30. I like my Hyperlube ZRA additive fix. Probably getting less start-up wear enhancing the polar clinginess of the molecules in the oil anyway.
Other fixes that others have reported have been LiquiMoly MOS2 additive, just using Castrol 0w-30 or 0w-40, Gunk 5-Minute Motor Flush before an oil change. (One BMW owner said he thought Mobil1 0w-40 did NOT cure the ticking.)
All the above is easy to do, and in my case just throwing in a half-bottle of Hyperlube ZRA means no more ticking for me. I haven't heard it again in about 10 startups now, and it was ticking almost all the time before.
From the BMW TSB on the ticking issue with the N52 engine:
CAUSE
In these situations, the HVA elements may not yet have been supplied with sufficient amounts of air-free oil. This condition will not cause any damage to the engine, and usually remedies itself with a longer driving distance or operating times at full operating temperature.
This is a load, annoying embarassment to BMW, who tries to make the best engines around. Car buyers paying $50,000 plus for a car don't want to hear it. I think it might slightly damage the wear surfaces since the lifters position the rockers.
Its aeration foaming, just a slight amount thats doing it, with maybe some slight varnish or gunk build-up. Not sure.
Maybe not just any BMW LL-01 oil. Some have said Castrol 0w-30 or Castrol 0w-40 (5-quart jugs for cheap at Walmart) cure it, but M1 0w-40 does not. I'd consider Redline 0w-30. I like my Hyperlube ZRA additive fix. Probably getting less start-up wear enhancing the polar clinginess of the molecules in the oil anyway.
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