Slight engine rattle
01-19-2014, 12:20 PM
#21
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My Ride: 530i SMG
Same problem here, `04 530i smg with 160 000 km.
I changed the valve cover gasket yesterday and i saw that the timing chain was loose.
I`m thinking that would be the problem since the noise comes from that area.
Did anyone with this problem changed the timing chain?
I changed the valve cover gasket yesterday and i saw that the timing chain was loose.
I`m thinking that would be the problem since the noise comes from that area.
Did anyone with this problem changed the timing chain?
03-03-2015, 09:16 AM
#22
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My Ride: 2004 545i Sport Package 6-Speed Manual
New to the e60 realm, came from a few e46's. I have an 04' 545i 80k and have a very similar issue to o.p.. Searched here...searched bimmerforums, bimmerfest, the British one...Nothing definitive. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but it seems that no one has posted any solutions to these specific symptoms.
My car has an idle rattle which at first sounds like it is coming from the passenger side valve cover/vacuum pump area. The best way I can describe the rattle is a heat shield rattle/diesel motor chatter. It happens at cold start-up, but not right away, only when the RPM's level down to ~600. When warm, the rattle will still be there, but it disappears for one second, comes back for two. If I really get on the throttle for a bit, the idle rattle will usually disappear. However, the rattle will return when I am stationary at idle and am turning the wheel (hot or cold motor) Also, the rattle will get louder when I begin to engage the clutch (start-off), but then will completely disappear once past 800 RPM or clutch fully engaged. Finally, the rattle will completely disappear when I turn the A/C on (even stopped turning or clutch feathering doesn't bring it back). Some previous posters talked about their RPM's rising due to A/C being on, thus masking the sound, but my RPM's are right around 6-650, A/C on, or off.
Giving bringing RPM's up to ~700/750 makes the rattle go away. Other than this rattle, she is a real peach to drive. NO CODES, no stored codes, not current codes.
I took a homemade stethoscope (a wooden shovel handle) and poked around different components looking for the source and I seemed to have narrowed it down to being the A/C compressor. I know that I can cut the A/C drive belt (from what I hear they're near impossible to get off) and see if the noise subsides, but I don't want to pu$$y-foot around wasting time on replacing unnecessary parts. If it is the A/C, I want to do it all at once.
I am curious to know if anyone has had this problem and ACTUALLY FOUND A SOLUTION FOR IT. I want to help those out there that are in the same position as I am. I also heard of an exhaust bracket by the tranny mounts that tends to loosen/break over time and this could be the source of the rattle too.
Non-Applicable Suggested Possibile Causes:
CVV/Vacuum leaks - Does not seem to have this problem - no smoke, no codes, no oil loss, no "whistle", no oil leaks.
Water Pump - Noise not coming from that area
Vanos - Noise not coming from that area.
Last tank of gas had a bottle of Techron in it. Didn't do anything, as expected because there was loss of performance, lags, hesitation, eml, loss of mpg's, etc. before the Techron.
I appreciate any help. I am planning to get her on the lift this weekend to inspect the exhaust, but to me it doesn't make sense why an exhaust rattle would stop with the A/C on...
Also seems just as strange that if the A/C pulley bearing was going, that engaging the magnetic clutch by turning the A/C on would make the bearing noise go away..
-Brendan
My car has an idle rattle which at first sounds like it is coming from the passenger side valve cover/vacuum pump area. The best way I can describe the rattle is a heat shield rattle/diesel motor chatter. It happens at cold start-up, but not right away, only when the RPM's level down to ~600. When warm, the rattle will still be there, but it disappears for one second, comes back for two. If I really get on the throttle for a bit, the idle rattle will usually disappear. However, the rattle will return when I am stationary at idle and am turning the wheel (hot or cold motor) Also, the rattle will get louder when I begin to engage the clutch (start-off), but then will completely disappear once past 800 RPM or clutch fully engaged. Finally, the rattle will completely disappear when I turn the A/C on (even stopped turning or clutch feathering doesn't bring it back). Some previous posters talked about their RPM's rising due to A/C being on, thus masking the sound, but my RPM's are right around 6-650, A/C on, or off.
Giving bringing RPM's up to ~700/750 makes the rattle go away. Other than this rattle, she is a real peach to drive. NO CODES, no stored codes, not current codes.
I took a homemade stethoscope (a wooden shovel handle) and poked around different components looking for the source and I seemed to have narrowed it down to being the A/C compressor. I know that I can cut the A/C drive belt (from what I hear they're near impossible to get off) and see if the noise subsides, but I don't want to pu$$y-foot around wasting time on replacing unnecessary parts. If it is the A/C, I want to do it all at once.
I am curious to know if anyone has had this problem and ACTUALLY FOUND A SOLUTION FOR IT. I want to help those out there that are in the same position as I am. I also heard of an exhaust bracket by the tranny mounts that tends to loosen/break over time and this could be the source of the rattle too.
Non-Applicable Suggested Possibile Causes:
CVV/Vacuum leaks - Does not seem to have this problem - no smoke, no codes, no oil loss, no "whistle", no oil leaks.
Water Pump - Noise not coming from that area
Vanos - Noise not coming from that area.
Last tank of gas had a bottle of Techron in it. Didn't do anything, as expected because there was loss of performance, lags, hesitation, eml, loss of mpg's, etc. before the Techron.
I appreciate any help. I am planning to get her on the lift this weekend to inspect the exhaust, but to me it doesn't make sense why an exhaust rattle would stop with the A/C on...
Also seems just as strange that if the A/C pulley bearing was going, that engaging the magnetic clutch by turning the A/C on would make the bearing noise go away..
-Brendan
03-03-2015, 06:06 PM
#23
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My Ride: 2004 545i, Mystic Blue, Dark Beige, 138 wheels
2004/545i/138k km. Exact same problem as most people in this thread. I did however open the hood while idling and noticed the ac compressor clutch pulley moving in/out of its center, almost running in and out of belt pulley alignment. The rattling sound, only at idle speed, seemed to synch with the noticeable compressor pulley movement. Once you load the engine, aka step on the gas, the noise goes away.
So I'm convinced that the sound is the compr clutch pulley bad bearings, but my mech said it's not a serviceable part (ie; replacing the clutch pulley) and the compr must be replaced in its entirety. He's convinced this is the source of the idle-only noise as well.
Hope this helps or maybe someone else can confirm this also. Until a g-note falls from the sky for a used compr, I'll just live with it.
So I'm convinced that the sound is the compr clutch pulley bad bearings, but my mech said it's not a serviceable part (ie; replacing the clutch pulley) and the compr must be replaced in its entirety. He's convinced this is the source of the idle-only noise as well.
Hope this helps or maybe someone else can confirm this also. Until a g-note falls from the sky for a used compr, I'll just live with it.
03-04-2015, 03:29 AM
#24
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My Ride: 2004 530i
2004/545i/138k km. Exact same problem as most people in this thread. I did however open the hood while idling and noticed the ac compressor clutch pulley moving in/out of its center, almost running in and out of belt pulley alignment. The rattling sound, only at idle speed, seemed to synch with the noticeable compressor pulley movement. Once you load the engine, aka step on the gas, the noise goes away.
So I'm convinced that the sound is the compr clutch pulley bad bearings, but my mech said it's not a serviceable part (ie; replacing the clutch pulley) and the compr must be replaced in its entirety. He's convinced this is the source of the idle-only noise as well.
Hope this helps or maybe someone else can confirm this also. Until a g-note falls from the sky for a used compr, I'll just live with it.
So I'm convinced that the sound is the compr clutch pulley bad bearings, but my mech said it's not a serviceable part (ie; replacing the clutch pulley) and the compr must be replaced in its entirety. He's convinced this is the source of the idle-only noise as well.
Hope this helps or maybe someone else can confirm this also. Until a g-note falls from the sky for a used compr, I'll just live with it.
03-04-2015, 07:26 AM
#25
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My Ride: 2004 545i Sport Package 6-Speed Manual
2004/545i/138k km. Exact same problem as most people in this thread. I did however open the hood while idling and noticed the ac compressor clutch pulley moving in/out of its center, almost running in and out of belt pulley alignment. The rattling sound, only at idle speed, seemed to synch with the noticeable compressor pulley movement. Once you load the engine, aka step on the gas, the noise goes away.
So I'm convinced that the sound is the compr clutch pulley bad bearings, but my mech said it's not a serviceable part (ie; replacing the clutch pulley) and the compr must be replaced in its entirety. He's convinced this is the source of the idle-only noise as well.
Hope this helps or maybe someone else can confirm this also. Until a g-note falls from the sky for a used compr, I'll just live with it.
So I'm convinced that the sound is the compr clutch pulley bad bearings, but my mech said it's not a serviceable part (ie; replacing the clutch pulley) and the compr must be replaced in its entirety. He's convinced this is the source of the idle-only noise as well.
Hope this helps or maybe someone else can confirm this also. Until a g-note falls from the sky for a used compr, I'll just live with it.
Hopefully there is someone out there that has replaced their compressor due to their rattle issue and it has solved the problem.
03-04-2015, 09:18 AM
#26
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My Ride: 2004 530i
From my research, your mechanic seems to be correct about the pulley not being a serviceable part, you must replace the whole compressor. You can get a compressor for a $1,200 OEM new, but I know you can go with third party for ~$400.
Not sure which e60 you have, but I know that the N62 does not use a A/C belt tensioner. There is just the main pulley, the belt, and the compressor. The belt is "self-tensioning" and "stretches" (barely) to remove/replace.
Hopefully there is someone out there that has replaced their compressor due to their rattle issue and it has solved the problem.
Not sure which e60 you have, but I know that the N62 does not use a A/C belt tensioner. There is just the main pulley, the belt, and the compressor. The belt is "self-tensioning" and "stretches" (barely) to remove/replace.
Hopefully there is someone out there that has replaced their compressor due to their rattle issue and it has solved the problem.
03-08-2015, 09:33 AM
#27
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From my research, your mechanic seems to be correct about the pulley not being a serviceable part, you must replace the whole compressor. You can get a compressor for a $1,200 OEM new, but I know you can go with third party for ~$400.
Not sure which e60 you have, but I know that the N62 does not use a A/C belt tensioner. There is just the main pulley, the belt, and the compressor. The belt is "self-tensioning" and "stretches" (barely) to remove/replace.
Hopefully there is someone out there that has replaced their compressor due to their rattle issue and it has solved the problem.
Not sure which e60 you have, but I know that the N62 does not use a A/C belt tensioner. There is just the main pulley, the belt, and the compressor. The belt is "self-tensioning" and "stretches" (barely) to remove/replace.
Hopefully there is someone out there that has replaced their compressor due to their rattle issue and it has solved the problem.
While the N62 when used in the 545i did not come with an AC belt tensioner, the threaded tensioner mounting holes are in the block for use when the N62 was mounted in the 745i, which did have an AC belt tensioner. Installation of an AC belt tensioner is as simple as buying the tensioner and bolts for mounting, plus a different length non-stretch belt which is also available off the shelf.
The PNs were identified in either this or the other forum and a little searching will locate the thread. RealOEM.com should also show the PNs (745i).
The stretch belt on the 545i is easily removed by slipping a rag between the belt and AC compressor pulley and pulling the belt away from the engine while turning the engine over by hand using the crank bolt. Installation can be done without a special belt starting tool, but the tool makes it much easier to reinstall the stretch belt. If I remember correctly the BMW belt starting tool is around $75 but I purchased another brand for around $20 and it worked fine.
03-12-2015, 11:18 PM
#28
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My Ride: 2004 545i
same problem, when ac is on no noise. previous owner cut the ac belt so the noise would disappear and said the car needed freoun when he sold me it LMAO
03-16-2015, 07:57 AM
#29
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My Ride: Black, sport pkg LA style rims, sun shade on rear passengers and rear glass, 6disc changer,
Hi guys,
After reading multiple posts. I decided to go with the AC compressor replacement. My mechanic confirmed that this was a known issue with the x45 series vehicles. Since the compressor replacement I have not had any more of the rattling sound on the vehicle. I also notice that the fuel consumption has decreased. The car is using less fuel(guess since I dont have to run the AC to quiet the rattling).
After reading multiple posts. I decided to go with the AC compressor replacement. My mechanic confirmed that this was a known issue with the x45 series vehicles. Since the compressor replacement I have not had any more of the rattling sound on the vehicle. I also notice that the fuel consumption has decreased. The car is using less fuel(guess since I dont have to run the AC to quiet the rattling).
03-31-2015, 01:35 PM
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Wow, im going to see if turning on the AC makes a difference in my 545. Its been pretty chilly, since I purchased the car in JAN. Just out of curiosity, and for the sake of finding out if this really is what causes the rattle, would cutting the AC belt, and running it like that stop the rattle? I could do without AC until the weather gets warmer, if I can get rid of this damn noise. Unless that'd be hazardous to the overall welfare of the car...
Whoever described it as an almost diesel engine type noise, EXACTLY describes how mine sounds. No rattle once rpms are over about 700. Its especially noticeable when I'm in a drive-thru or stopped next to another car.
Whoever described it as an almost diesel engine type noise, EXACTLY describes how mine sounds. No rattle once rpms are over about 700. Its especially noticeable when I'm in a drive-thru or stopped next to another car.