Idrive flickering on/off Tons of malfunctions and car wants to die. (Video inside)
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Idrive flickering on/off Tons of malfunctions and car wants to die. (Video inside)
hey guys, id really appreciate some input on this one because my car is sitting in a parking lot away from home.
About 6 months ago i noticed that my idrive screen started flickering on and off so i immediately pull over. I then see a bunch of malfunctions popping up on the screen and then the car dies. I wait an hour and the car barely starts up and manages to get me home.
Here's a video of the madness.
I ended replacing the battery and alternator and all was well until a few nights ago when these exact problems started up again. It was fine for about 6 months and last night i ended up swapping the alternator out for another and that did not fix the problem this time.
The car is clearly not getting enough power to keep it running and the alternator checked out fine at autozone. I double checked the belt and its on correctly according to a writeup i found on this site. The new battery was NOT coded to the car after install. Anyone know what it could possibly be?
About 6 months ago i noticed that my idrive screen started flickering on and off so i immediately pull over. I then see a bunch of malfunctions popping up on the screen and then the car dies. I wait an hour and the car barely starts up and manages to get me home.
Here's a video of the madness.
I ended replacing the battery and alternator and all was well until a few nights ago when these exact problems started up again. It was fine for about 6 months and last night i ended up swapping the alternator out for another and that did not fix the problem this time.
The car is clearly not getting enough power to keep it running and the alternator checked out fine at autozone. I double checked the belt and its on correctly according to a writeup i found on this site. The new battery was NOT coded to the car after install. Anyone know what it could possibly be?
Last edited by AbyssalCreation; 07-28-2014 at 12:00 AM.
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Try putting in a new charging relay . Will give the same symptoms as a failing alternator if it's gone bad . It's located in the trunk fuse box . It's one inch by inch black square with a little diagonal handle on it . Hopefully that's your problem ... Take the battery out and get it fully charged while you go and get the relay . Good luck and keep us posted .
Last edited by H F; 07-28-2014 at 06:05 AM.
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Check the power control module located in the spare tire well. Water in the well getting to the module will cause symptoms as your describe. Even if no water now, it could have been there. Disconnect the module and ensure all connections are dry.
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Thank you
I appreciate the advice guys. I'll definitely check the charging relay, check the power control module connections, and have the battery tested as well.
I was just thinking, would a faulty IBS sensor cause these sort of problems too? I'm about to go check on the car and I'll keep you posted.
I was just thinking, would a faulty IBS sensor cause these sort of problems too? I'm about to go check on the car and I'll keep you posted.
Last edited by AbyssalCreation; 07-28-2014 at 11:48 AM.
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**Update** and IBS questions.
So i had the battery tested and it was still good but low in charge. I had autozone recharge it for me and it took almost 2 hours. I had a look at the power control module and the connections were clean and the module was dry. Im also pretty sure that the black square relay is functioning properly, it had no burnt smell before or after starting the car.
I managed to get the car home with no drama after i installed the recharged battery. The car was stuck in a casino parking lot 20 miles from home for about 3 days.
Now about the ibs sensor that BenAnd suggested i look at... Just to be clear the car in question is a 2004 530i with an auto transmission and a build date of 02/2004 according to RealOEM. I drove the car briefly today then parked and locked it in the garage. I checked the LED by the shifter 30 minutes after i locked it and it was still illuminated. I then checked 30 minutes afterwards and it was off this time. I read somewhere that it usually takes between 15-70 minutes for the car to go into sleep mode if the ibs is functioning properly. My car took about 60 minutes to enter sleep mode so im assuming the ibs is fine? Let me know what you guys think cause i don't want this problem to arise again. Sorry for the long posts but i just want to be clear and i hope this will help people in the future.
I managed to get the car home with no drama after i installed the recharged battery. The car was stuck in a casino parking lot 20 miles from home for about 3 days.
Now about the ibs sensor that BenAnd suggested i look at... Just to be clear the car in question is a 2004 530i with an auto transmission and a build date of 02/2004 according to RealOEM. I drove the car briefly today then parked and locked it in the garage. I checked the LED by the shifter 30 minutes after i locked it and it was still illuminated. I then checked 30 minutes afterwards and it was off this time. I read somewhere that it usually takes between 15-70 minutes for the car to go into sleep mode if the ibs is functioning properly. My car took about 60 minutes to enter sleep mode so im assuming the ibs is fine? Let me know what you guys think cause i don't want this problem to arise again. Sorry for the long posts but i just want to be clear and i hope this will help people in the future.
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I have actually timed how long my car took to go to sleep mode . It took exactly 15 mins.
Also to test a charging relay it takes a little more than just smelling it for signs of it being burnt . Here is a video on how you can test it correctly so you can rule it out . The relay costs about 25 bucks,, in my opinion its good practice to throw in a new relay to go with a new alternator for piece of mind and to ensure the charging system is in tip top shape ...
Also to test a charging relay it takes a little more than just smelling it for signs of it being burnt . Here is a video on how you can test it correctly so you can rule it out . The relay costs about 25 bucks,, in my opinion its good practice to throw in a new relay to go with a new alternator for piece of mind and to ensure the charging system is in tip top shape ...
Last edited by H F; 07-31-2014 at 12:44 PM.
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The one in the trunk fuse box .. Its the only square 1in x 1in black fuse in the panel . From my understanding works in conjunction with the regulator shutting off and on the charging system ...
Last edited by H F; 08-01-2014 at 11:47 AM.
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Here's an update to my thread... I traveled to San Diego with family and left the car here in town for about 5 days and today im having the same issues as before. The car didnt shut off this time or pop up a million warning lights though. I noticed a few weak starts and then the idrive started blinking on and off again in a parking lot. I revved it up a bit and the problem went away so i limped it home.
Im gonna get the battery recharged again and ive ordered the relay that member HF suggested.
I ordered from autohausz and the part number is #61366901469 just in case anyone is wondering.
Im really hoping this cures my issue because im tired of worrying if this car is gonna leave me stranded somewhere. My ibs sensor seems to be fine because the standby light does go off after about 45-60 minutes on average.
Im gonna get the battery recharged again and ive ordered the relay that member HF suggested.
I ordered from autohausz and the part number is #61366901469 just in case anyone is wondering.
Im really hoping this cures my issue because im tired of worrying if this car is gonna leave me stranded somewhere. My ibs sensor seems to be fine because the standby light does go off after about 45-60 minutes on average.