E60 Discussion Anything and everything to do with the E60 5 Series. All are welcome!
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Hard Brake Pedal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-09-2014, 01:57 PM
  #11  
New Members
Thread Starter
 
yelcab2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: san carlos, ca
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My Ride: 2006 530xi touring
Model Year: 2006
Engine: 3 liter
Default

Originally Posted by turboawd
but pay a dealer to do it = $$$$$
I don't pay dealers to do jack $hit for me. I do it all. Compared to an engine out major service on a Ferrari or a Carrera, a brake booster is a walk in the park.
Old 12-09-2014, 01:58 PM
  #12  
New Members
Thread Starter
 
yelcab2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: san carlos, ca
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My Ride: 2006 530xi touring
Model Year: 2006
Engine: 3 liter
Default

Originally Posted by JasonH
Second-hand brake boosters are pretty common and cheap.

They don't fail very often and every E60/E61 that is broken has one. I think they're the same for all engine sizes too.

Fitting isn't that bad - the main headache is that you have to completely bleed the entire braking system because you need to disconnect the brake lines to the master cylinder.

Brand new rebuilt unit is $140. Why buy used?
Old 12-14-2014, 03:39 PM
  #13  
New Members
Thread Starter
 
yelcab2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: san carlos, ca
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My Ride: 2006 530xi touring
Model Year: 2006
Engine: 3 liter
Default

Closing this out.


The rebuilt booster came today, installed it and all is well. One hint for the next guy, at least on E60, install the master cylinder first on to the booster, then install the assembly into the car. You save a bundle of time.
Old 12-14-2014, 06:59 PM
  #14  
Senior Members
 
turboawd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My Ride: 2006 BMW 550i
Default

thanks for the update.
Old 12-17-2014, 09:49 AM
  #15  
New Members
Thread Starter
 
yelcab2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: san carlos, ca
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My Ride: 2006 530xi touring
Model Year: 2006
Engine: 3 liter
Default

Originally Posted by turboawd
thanks for the update.
Well, all is not well.


I drove it for 1 mile and ALL BRAKES locked up. Released the lines, rebled the brakes, make sure fill up fluild to Max level and no more. Drove it and immediately the brakes are dragging. Pull into the garage and they all locked up.


Is it possible that the master cylinder decided to go just now? Or, it is possible that the new rebuilt booster is somehow causing the brakes to bind and lock up?
Old 12-17-2014, 04:55 PM
  #16  
New Members
 
cakes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My Ride: 550i
Model Year: 2010
Default

Did you touch the "push-rod" of the brake pedal that pushes on the MC? Because of production variations, and especially with aftermarket parts, the booster might not be the exact same size so the pushrod will need to be adjusted so there's 1-3 mm of brake pedal play. By the sounds of it, it's probably pushing the MC slightly causing the brakes to be applied. The pushrod will probably have to be shortened.

This is the procedure for a Honda, but I think for a BMW it should be similar. I replaced the MC on my acura 2 years ago and luckily I didn't have to adjust the pushrod.
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf

Last edited by cakes; 12-17-2014 at 05:02 PM.
Old 12-17-2014, 07:35 PM
  #17  
New Members
Thread Starter
 
yelcab2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: san carlos, ca
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My Ride: 2006 530xi touring
Model Year: 2006
Engine: 3 liter
Default

Originally Posted by cakes
Did you touch the "push-rod" of the brake pedal that pushes on the MC? Because of production variations, and especially with aftermarket parts, the booster might not be the exact same size so the pushrod will need to be adjusted so there's 1-3 mm of brake pedal play. By the sounds of it, it's probably pushing the MC slightly causing the brakes to be applied. The pushrod will probably have to be shortened.

This is the procedure for a Honda, but I think for a BMW it should be similar. I replaced the MC on my acura 2 years ago and luckily I didn't have to adjust the pushrod.
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf
I did not touch the push rod, but from the dragging brakes, I surmised that there is an adjustment procedure that is not shown in the Bentley manual. I am going to look for a bmw one somewhere.
Old 12-17-2014, 07:50 PM
  #18  
Senior Members
 
turboawd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My Ride: 2006 BMW 550i
Default

could you try maybe loosening the master cylinder bolts so that the cylinder moves away from booster a bit. and see if that fixes issue?
is the pedal returning all the way up?
Old 12-19-2014, 07:20 AM
  #19  
New Members
Thread Starter
 
yelcab2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: san carlos, ca
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My Ride: 2006 530xi touring
Model Year: 2006
Engine: 3 liter
Default

Originally Posted by turboawd
could you try maybe loosening the master cylinder bolts so that the cylinder moves away from booster a bit. and see if that fixes issue?
is the pedal returning all the way up?
I could, but don't I lose the vacuum seal that way?
Old 12-19-2014, 08:33 PM
  #20  
Senior Members
 
turboawd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My Ride: 2006 BMW 550i
Default

Originally Posted by yelcab2
I could, but don't I lose the vacuum seal that way?
dont drive with the master cylinder loose, but just loosen it to see if it gets rid of the stuck brakes. the booster pushes on the master cylinder rod. that may help you determine if the rod is getting stuck.
but first i'd check to make sure pedal comes all the way up first.


Quick Reply: Hard Brake Pedal



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:41 AM.