Brendan412

Been a lurker on here for a bit while trying to fix my inconsistent idle with my 2004 N62 545 6 speed manual. I have about 93k on the clock now and noticed the first symptoms around 80k. After searching for hours and hours..and more hours at different threads (99% of them being dead ends), I finally narrowed down the issues. My idle is much better and the performance has noticeably improved.

I did not have any check engine lights/codes relating to the inconsistent idle (no increased emissions, cylinder faults, etc). I did have a "Dynamic Drive Malfunction" code appear recently, but that was related to the alternator which will be described below. Luckily, I have no oil leaks. If you have oil leaks, your idle issue could easily be related but I don't have answers on that.

This thread is for anyone who does not like wasting time nor enjoys spending thousands of dollars at the dealer/indy to replace unnecessary parts, only to find that the issue is not fixed.


For starters, if you have a rattle at idle while your A/C is off and disappears while A/C is on, you probably have a loose A/C pulley/shaft and/or bad bearing. If you remove the A/C belt (small belt on passenger side), wiggle the pulley. There are many threads out there on how to remove the belt. If you notice any play, you have a bad pulley/shaft and need to replace your whole compressor. If you do not have any play, spin the pulley. If you feel any resistance and/or hear any grinding noise, you have a bad bearing. If you have a bad bearing it is possible to replace the bearing/pulley/clutch assembly for about $100. I searched eBay but could not find a current seller. I have not performed this replacement, but after searching around I have found that the 7mm bolt on the front is very very soft and appears to be reverse thread. The pulley actually spins off of the 7mm bolt which is the A/C compressor shaft. I would recommend replacing the whole compressor, but here is the link to a thread on the pulley replacement:

https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...earing-129426/

And a link for the cheapest OEM compressor that I found:

New Genuine AC A C Compressor Clutch for BMW 5 6 7 Series E60 E63 E65 | eBay

There is more information in this thread below regarding A/C compressor replacement.


For those noticing a rough idle upon startup/warmup - here are some cheaper items I replaced/repaired: Spark plugs, air filter, crankcase vent (CCV) valves, Tyco relay in trunk (TYCO model number 6136-6901469), crankcase ventilation hoses (if you have the older style), clean your MAF sensor w/ CRC MAF Cleaner and check the gasket between the MAF and the intake tube that leads into the throttle body (if it is severely pinched, replace, they are on ECS tuning), clean the throttle body with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner.

Link for crankcase ventilation hose diy replacement (can also see if you have the old style or new style - Old style on 2004's and into 2005's as well [I believe])

https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...cement-143070/

This SIB may help for rough idle at operating temperatures. There is a second SIB under this one for essentially the same problem but at cold startup and may require replacement of the Valvetronic intermediate levers if your car's production date falls in the specified ranges.

SI B11 07 06
October 2006

Engine
Technical Service

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SM B11 203 03 dated December 2004.
SUBJECT
N62 Engine- Rough Idle at Operating Temperature

MODEL
E60 (5 Series) 545i
E63 and E64 (6 Series) 645Ci and 645Cic
E65 and E66 (7 Series) 745i and 745Li

SITUATION
Intermittently, engine idle is rough after engine has reached normal operating temperature. There are no other driveability complaints and no faults stored in DME fault memory.

CAUSE
Insufficient Valvetronic adaptation.

PROCEDURE
On a customer complaint basis, verify condition, then perform the N62 Ignition and Injection Test using DISPlus V44.0 and MKA adapter 12 1 310 (see SI B04 32 01, May 2002). If all aspects of the N62 MKA Ignition and Injection Test are OK, proceed to procedure A.

PROCEDURE A:
1. Select "Function Selection".
2. Select "Service Functions".
3. Select "Drive".
4. Select "Engine Management ME9".
5. Select "Test Runs".
6. Select "Idling Quality".
7. Select "Test Plan".
8. Select right arrow.
9. Select "(1) Eccentric Shaft Calibration"

The Test Plan will check the calibration of the eccentric shafts and display the calibration angle. If the calibration angle is not within specification, follow the on-screen prompts to make necessary adjustment. After the calibration has been completed, and the Test Plan has been terminated verify the engine idle quality. If the engine idle quality has improved, take no further action. If the idle quality has not been improved, proceed to procedure B.
1. Select "Function Selection".
2. Select "Service Functions".
3. Select "Drive".
4. Select "Engine Management ME9".
5. Select "Test Runs".
6. Select "Idling Quality".
7. Select "Test Plan".
8. Select right arrow.
9. Select "(5) Minimum lift adjustment".
10. Allow vehicle to reach operating temperature. (The test plan will not let you continue without achieving this temperature level.) Arrow to the right when the screen indicates the vehicle is at operating temperature.
11. The next screen will show background information concerning the effects of valve lift adjustment. Select right arrow after reading this information.
12. The screen will then indicate the current valve lift (example: 0.3 mm or 0.8 mm ). Select the appropriate lift adjustment and then arrow to the right.
13. The tester will make the adjustment and ask if this adjustment should be permanently programmed. If the engine idle quality did improve, then answer "Yes" and arrow to the right.
14. The screen now confirms the adjustment has been programmed.
15. Selecting the right arrow will end the test plan.

NOTE: Whenever the minimum valve lift is changed a calibration of the eccentric shafts must be performed.

16. Select "(1) Eccentric Shaft Calibration"

The Test Plan will check the calibration of the eccentric shafts. The Test Plan will then display the calibration angle. If the calibration angle is not within specification, follow the on-screen prompts to make necessary adjustment. If the calibration is within specification, take no further action.
To confirm new minimum lift setting:
Select "DME" in Control Unit Functions. Then under "Diagnosis Requests", select "Minimum Valve Lift", then "Display". The minimum valve lift is displayed.

After following this procedure, test the vehicle duplicating the conditions stated by the customer. Please provide feedback via PuMA.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

************************************************** *************************************

***ALSO SEE:

SI B 11 02 05
Engine January 2006
Technical Service

This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. B11 02 05 dated May 2005.

designates changes to this revision

SUBJECT
N62 Engine - Rough Idle, Misfire Faults after Cold Start


MODEL
E53 (X5 4.4 i/4.8is); E60, E63/64, E65/66 with N62 from 06/04 up to 02/05 production


SITUATION
Customer may complain of erratic engine idle speed lasting for approximately 20 seconds after a cold start. Check Engine Soon light may be illuminated and misfire faults for various cylinders (e.g. FC 2742, 2743, 2744, 2745, 2746, 2748, 2749, 274E) may be stored in the DME.

CAUSE
Incorrect tolerances and geometry of Valvetronic intermediate levers are causing uneven cylinder filling during the transitional cold start period (60 seconds after the engine has been started) when the Valvetronic system is switching from the initial 6 mm to a minimum 0.3/0.8 mm valve lift.

CORRECTION
On a customer complaint basis, and after performing diagnostic procedure described below, replace the Valvetronic intermediate levers.

PROCEDURE

Perform basic engine diagnosis (compression, ignition, fuel pressure, etc) to rule out other potential causes.

Allow the engine to cool down.

Connect GT1/DIS loaded with CD 44.0, or higher, to a cold vehicle (coolant temperature below 30 deg C) and from the Function Selection select: "Service Functions", "Drive", "Engine management ME9", "Test runs" and then "Tolerance test, intermediate lever".

Start the engine and follow-up the test plan.

Observe rough running values when idle speed stabilizes. If values are in excess of +/- 2.5 accompanied with noticeable engine vibration (and sometimes Check Engine Soon flashing), then remove valve covers on both banks.

Look for the intermediate lever production date (stamped on the lever, next to the smaller roller contacting the eccentric shaft).

If the production date is in the range between "04 180" and "04 324" (e.g. day 324 of the year 2004), then the whole set of intermediate levers (16) has to be replaced. The same classification of levers must be used when ordering the intermediate levers (classification number is stamped below production date). There are 5 classifications of levers used in the N62 engine.

Note: In an individual cylinder head, all levers must have the same classification, but two different classification of intermediate levers may be used in one engine (e.g. bank 1: classification 2, bank 2: classification 3).

Important: The lower production range of the affected intermediate levers is only an approximation. It is possible that levers produced prior to "04 180" (but not earlier then "03 363") may have certain deviations in tolerances.

For Valvetronic intermediate lever replacement procedure, refer to RA 11 37 012 (bank 1) and RA 11 37 014 (bank 2), found in BMW TIS.

IMPORTANT:

Improved intermediate levers are currently available from our Parts Department.

In the event of a reproducible customer complaint proceed with the diagnostic and repair procedure. There is no need to contact Technical Hotline.

PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number
Description
Quantity

11 37 7 516 895
Intermediate levers class 1
Maximum 16

11 37 7 514 012
Intermediate levers class 2
Maximum 16

11 37 7 514 013
Intermediate levers class 3
Maximum 16

11 37 7 514 014
Intermediate levers class 4
Maximum 16

11 37 7 514 015
Intermediate levers class 5
Maximum 16

11 12 7 513 194
Valve cover gasket bank 1
1

11 12 7 513 195
Valve cover gasket bank 2
1

11 31 7 507 432
Tensioner sealing ring
2

07 11 9 903 596
Valvetronic motor spacer ring
2

11 14 7 506 424
Timing chain cover, u-shape metal gasket, bank 1
1

11 14 7 506 425
Timing chain cover, u-shape metal gasket, bank 2
1

11 36 7 513 222
Vanos solenoid O-ring
4

11 36 7 546 379
Vanos solenoid O-ring
4

11 36 7 501 423
Vanos unit bolts
4

12 14 1 748 398
Cam sensor o-rings
4

11 12 7 518 420
Eccentric shaft sensor o-ring
2

NOTE:

It is not necessary to replace spark plugs tubes during a course of this repair.

WARRANTY INFORMATION
Covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Defect Code
11 37 91 42 00


Labor Operation:
Labor Allowance:


Main work:
00 55 453
93 FRU – E53 X5 4.4i/4.8is

91 FRU – E65/66

102 FRU – E60, E63/64


+Associated work:
00 55 793
91 FRU – E53 X5 4.4i/4.8is

90 FRU – E65/66

100 FRU – E60, E63/64

Note: The following explanations will spell out the correct use of the work times.

Main Work:
Use this labor operation number when the only repair performed is the listed warranty repair.

OR

+Associated Work:
Use this labor operation number when other repairs or services are performed along with the listed warranty repair.
Under no circumstances should both labor operation numbers be claimed. Attempts to claim both times will result in an unnecessary delay in claim processing and payment.

************************************************** ********************

Hopefully you don't need to replace the valves. I would recommend ruling out other cheaper issues first.


If you are experiencing a fluctuating idle, you also may need to replace your alternator (I did). My symptoms were a fluctuating idle from about 500rpm to 650rpm after about 10-20 minutes of engine operation. I first noticed an occasional fluctuating idle/hesitation. Then the fluctuating idle became more consistent after 10-20 min of engine operation. Then I began receiving an occasional "Dynamic Drive Malfunction at idle and while driving. At first, before the problem became more regular, I accessed the "secret on board computer functions" (Test 9) and noticed that my voltage output was around 14.4 volts upon startup. (You can search how to unlock this test, among others) That seemed fine so I originally thought the alternator was not an issue. As the issue became more regular I decided to drive around with test 9 operating and the voltage output would drop to 12.3 for a few minutes and then jump back up. I noticed hesitation while accelerating in 2nd gear (manual transmission) until I hit 3000rpm. Then I would get shot back in my seat like my car had a turbo that kicked in at 3k. Also, I would get the "Dynamic Drive Malfunction" when the voltage would drop below 12v or go above 15.5. This was the computer turning off the "Dynamic Drive" to prevent it from blowing out due to over-current. NOTE: A "Dynamic Drive Malfunction" may also be a symptom of low brake fluid level. Make sure you check this first and add the correct fluid (I believe it is CHF11S). Also, I noticed the radio would cut out for a second when I would get the "Dynamic Drive Malfunction". If you have these symptoms and a bad alternator (its actually often the voltage regulator), I would recommend changing the entire alternator. Replacing the regulator is possible, but you need to remove the alternator to get to the regulator. You also may experience many other dash lights illuminating, inside ambient lights flickering, etc.. That is when you know your regulator is shot and you should replace ASAP to avoid blowing your electronics.

Here is a link for the best price I found on a new OEM alternator:

2004 BMW 545 Alternator 4.4L Engine - 180 Amp - With Valeo Unit 31-00179 AR


I replaced my alternator and A/C Compressor at the same time, and replaced the A/C belt along with the serpentine belt. I did not diy this project as I could not evacuate the A/C freon without special equipment and since the belts were going to be off, I had my indy shop replace the alternator and belts for an extra $100 in labor. You can just let the freon evacuate into the atmosphere but freon is terrible for the environment, and more importantly, you. But the cost of purchasing new freon almost makes it worth it to have your reputable indy shop do the work. Plus the new A/C belt is often a PITA to get on.


Your inconsistent idle could be a vacuum leak other than the CCV valves or crankcase ventilation hoses. If you have an increased emissions light, get a smoke test done or you can attempt to make your own. It has been done with a shop vac and a cigarette. The fix could be a simple as replacing the oil dipstick gasket or oil fill cap but the leak could be anywhere in the vacuum system.

If all, any, or none of these symptoms relate to your issue, you could also have carbon buildup on your valves. I would ensure that you are filling your tank with premium fuel from a premium gas station (Mobil, Chevron, Shell, etc.) and would recommend running a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner through two consecutive tanks of gas. If the buildup is bad enough, a flush may be necessary, or you could be on the verge of throwing a code for a bad injector(s).

As a final note related to fuel, BMW's HATE ethanol. Many gas stations add excess ethanol above the posed 10%. To combat this, I treat every tank with Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment. If you decide to treat your gas, make sure you buy a long funnel that will push the gas fill flap down or else you will have a mess on your hands. Also, the s**t is nasty when it gets on your hands, so get a box of rubber gloves and don't let the stuff leak all over your trunk/car.


I hope this thread helps some of you 545 owners out there are experiencing a rough/inconsistent idle, a rattle with a/c off, hesitation while accelerating, or loss of performance.

Hyper_545i

Brendan,


Great post! Thank you for taking the time to write this up. I am sure other members such as myself will find this very useful!

sosimple

I had these same headaches and symptoms. Changed spark plugs, ignition coils, relay in trunk, battery and no change. Was driving me crazy because I figured alternator was ok since I was always able to start my car.

Changed alternator and issues with idle and dynamic drive/radio cutoff went away.

Idle does bounce a little bit now sometimes but nothing like before. Also sometimes get emission light now but guessing that is a vacuum leak/crack somewhere. I just reset the light whenever it comes on.

Wish I didn't replace my battery, that was a waste of money.

Hyper_545i

I just replaced my alternator this past weekend. In my case, I knew it was the alternator because I got a "Alternator Malfunction" message on iDrive. I checked the charging characteristics with INPA and found that with the car not running I had a voltage of 9-10V and with it running only about 10.2v. Thinking now, that would explain the misc. errors that came up with Dynamic Drive, active steering etc. The car does not idle as rough anymore either. Fingers crossed!