Disconnecting IBS battery sensor. Doesnt make sense.
10-31-2013, 01:29 PM
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Disconnecting IBS battery sensor. Doesnt make sense.
Disconnected the plug that goes into IBS sensor from the negative terminal before I put my car in the garage. Next morning, car started, no warning messages, all good.
Not sure how this disconnecting the IBS sensor can prove the IBS sensor Is bad, since the IBS sensor is the sensor that measures power and power being discharged while the car is off, if the sensor is disconnected, you can still have power being draining power from something, but there wont be a error tripped since the IBS sensor is disconnected. This my thinking correct?
Not sure how this disconnecting the IBS sensor can prove the IBS sensor Is bad, since the IBS sensor is the sensor that measures power and power being discharged while the car is off, if the sensor is disconnected, you can still have power being draining power from something, but there wont be a error tripped since the IBS sensor is disconnected. This my thinking correct?
10-31-2013, 03:20 PM
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Disconnected the plug that goes into IBS sensor from the negative terminal before I put my car in the garage. Next morning, car started, no warning messages, all good.
Not sure how this disconnecting the IBS sensor can prove the IBS sensor Is bad, since the IBS sensor is the sensor that measures power and power being discharged while the car is off, if the sensor is disconnected, you can still have power being draining power from something, but there wont be a error tripped since the IBS sensor is disconnected. This my thinking correct?
Not sure how this disconnecting the IBS sensor can prove the IBS sensor Is bad, since the IBS sensor is the sensor that measures power and power being discharged while the car is off, if the sensor is disconnected, you can still have power being draining power from something, but there wont be a error tripped since the IBS sensor is disconnected. This my thinking correct?
After the engine is off and the car has been shut down for a while the car goes to sleep with nearly all computers shutting down except the remote entry, clock, convenience settings, etc.) While the car sleeps the IBS wakes up about once per minute to take a quick measurement to assess whether there is enough voltage to restart the car. If the voltage is dropping too far the IBS can send a signal to the DME and wake it up, with the purpose that the DME can then turn off systems in the car using power. This wake up is designed to be a one time event.
The IBS has a microprocessor that can be damaged by moisture (common for older models before they began waterproofed the IBS). If the IBS is malfunctioning it can wake up the DME over and over for no reason. The DME draws a large amount of power and will quickly drain a battery.
By disconnecting the IBS you interrupt the repeated wake ups of the DME and preserve battery voltage. When the IBS is disconnected the DME has no information regarding battery health so it sets the alternator output at around 14.2V, which may over a period of time shorten battery life.
10-31-2013, 04:14 PM
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While the engine is running, the IBS communicates with the DME (or generic term ECU or main computer or engine control unit) passing information about the health of the battery.
After the engine is off and the car has been shut down for a while the car goes to sleep with nearly all computers shutting down except the remote entry, clock, convenience settings, etc.) While the car sleeps the IBS wakes up about once per minute to take a quick measurement to assess whether there is enough voltage to restart the car. If the voltage is dropping too far the IBS can send a signal to the DME and wake it up, with the purpose that the DME can then turn off systems in the car using power. This wake up is designed to be a one time event.
The IBS has a microprocessor that can be damaged by moisture (common for older models before they began waterproofed the IBS). If the IBS is malfunctioning it can wake up the DME over and over for no reason. The DME draws a large amount of power and will quickly drain a battery.
By disconnecting the IBS you interrupt the repeated wake ups of the DME and preserve battery voltage. When the IBS is disconnected the DME has no information regarding battery health so it sets the alternator output at around 14.2V, which may over a period of time shorten battery life.
After the engine is off and the car has been shut down for a while the car goes to sleep with nearly all computers shutting down except the remote entry, clock, convenience settings, etc.) While the car sleeps the IBS wakes up about once per minute to take a quick measurement to assess whether there is enough voltage to restart the car. If the voltage is dropping too far the IBS can send a signal to the DME and wake it up, with the purpose that the DME can then turn off systems in the car using power. This wake up is designed to be a one time event.
The IBS has a microprocessor that can be damaged by moisture (common for older models before they began waterproofed the IBS). If the IBS is malfunctioning it can wake up the DME over and over for no reason. The DME draws a large amount of power and will quickly drain a battery.
By disconnecting the IBS you interrupt the repeated wake ups of the DME and preserve battery voltage. When the IBS is disconnected the DME has no information regarding battery health so it sets the alternator output at around 14.2V, which may over a period of time shorten battery life.
So how can disconnecting the IBS prove that the IBS is the reason for throwing the high discharge error when the IBS itself is responsible for that action.
Disconnecting just wont throw the error, but wont stop any draining that might be happening.
I don't have a dead battery and car always start every morning, but I do get a high discharge warning some mornings.
10-31-2013, 07:21 PM
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You are correct in your assumption. The IBS always monitor the battery. Therefore if the car does not go to sleep when all terminals are shut down and in tthe alotted time the IBS will record the drain. That means something is still draining the battery. If you disconnect the IBS you will not get the warning but whatever is draining the battery is still active. Disconnecting the IBS will only fix the problem if the fault was the IBS.
Easy test is to disconnect IBS measure the battery then wait over night and measure the battery again.
Easy test is to disconnect IBS measure the battery then wait over night and measure the battery again.
10-31-2013, 08:39 PM
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Exactly - Disconnecting the IBS will only test if the IBS is malfunctioning and waking the DME repeatedly.
Example: You connect a small 12V light bulb directly across the two terminals of the battery. When the engine is on no problem, but when you turn the engine off the light bulb continues to pull current from the battery. The IBS will monitor the current flow and continued drop of voltage and may wake up the DME once, but the bulb connected directly to battery cannot be controlled by the DME so the DME goes back to sleep. In the morning you should expect a battery warning light.
But if there is no other faults but instead it is the faulty IBS waking the DME repeatedly and making the DME be the power drain, then disconnecting the IBS stops that action and there will be no excessive battery drain and no dash battery warning light.
If all is good for several weeks (no excessive battery drain with the IBS disconnected) then plug the IBS back in. If the battery drain returns then viola, it is the IBS.
Example: You connect a small 12V light bulb directly across the two terminals of the battery. When the engine is on no problem, but when you turn the engine off the light bulb continues to pull current from the battery. The IBS will monitor the current flow and continued drop of voltage and may wake up the DME once, but the bulb connected directly to battery cannot be controlled by the DME so the DME goes back to sleep. In the morning you should expect a battery warning light.
But if there is no other faults but instead it is the faulty IBS waking the DME repeatedly and making the DME be the power drain, then disconnecting the IBS stops that action and there will be no excessive battery drain and no dash battery warning light.
If all is good for several weeks (no excessive battery drain with the IBS disconnected) then plug the IBS back in. If the battery drain returns then viola, it is the IBS.
Last edited by BimmerFan52; 10-31-2013 at 09:48 PM.
11-01-2013, 04:38 AM
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My other cars (current and past) don't have IBS, yet those batteries seem to last at least 6 to 7 years. IBS is supposed to improve/increase the life of battery; yet, battery/charging system seems to one of the most problematic on this car.
11-01-2013, 08:37 AM
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^ +1
No doubt, these Germans stay up late figuring out how to over-complicate every system they can think of, none of which makes the car handle any better or go any faster (why we are buying their cars in the first place
).
And their ability to design a component and then put it into a place that is almost impossible to get to is legendary.
For instance starter motors.
On my 1976 Camaro I remember changing a starter in 20 minutes. Slide under the car, remove the cables to the starter, loosen three or four bolts, slap the new starter in, tighten it up. Replace the cables. Done!
On my E60 8 cylinder?
- Remove oxygen sensors
- Remove complete exhaust system (from the exhaust manifolds to the chrome exhaust tips at the rear bumper, which from the factory is welded in one piece)
- Support engine
- Lower front subframe
- Remove steering knuckle
- Remove drivers side exhaust manifold (from bottom only)
- Remove heat shield
- Remove and replace starter
Only a sleep-deprived mind comes up with a design like that!
No doubt, these Germans stay up late figuring out how to over-complicate every system they can think of, none of which makes the car handle any better or go any faster (why we are buying their cars in the first place
).And their ability to design a component and then put it into a place that is almost impossible to get to is legendary.
For instance starter motors.
On my 1976 Camaro I remember changing a starter in 20 minutes. Slide under the car, remove the cables to the starter, loosen three or four bolts, slap the new starter in, tighten it up. Replace the cables. Done!
On my E60 8 cylinder?
- Remove oxygen sensors
- Remove complete exhaust system (from the exhaust manifolds to the chrome exhaust tips at the rear bumper, which from the factory is welded in one piece)
- Support engine
- Lower front subframe
- Remove steering knuckle
- Remove drivers side exhaust manifold (from bottom only)
- Remove heat shield
- Remove and replace starter
Only a sleep-deprived mind comes up with a design like that!
11-02-2013, 04:07 AM
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^ +1
No doubt, these Germans stay up late figuring out how to over-complicate every system they can think of, none of which makes the car handle any better or go any faster (why we are buying their cars in the first place).
And their ability to design a component and then put it into a place that is almost impossible to get to is legendary.
For instance starter motors.
On my 1976 Camaro I remember changing a starter in 20 minutes. Slide under the car, remove the cables to the starter, loosen three or four bolts, slap the new starter in, tighten it up. Replace the cables. Done!
On my E60 8 cylinder?
- Remove oxygen sensors
- Remove complete exhaust system (from the exhaust manifolds to the chrome exhaust tips at the rear bumper, which from the factory is welded in one piece)
- Support engine
- Lower front subframe
- Remove steering knuckle
- Remove drivers side exhaust manifold (from bottom only)
- Remove heat shield
- Remove and replace starter
Only a sleep-deprived mind comes up with a design like that!
No doubt, these Germans stay up late figuring out how to over-complicate every system they can think of, none of which makes the car handle any better or go any faster (why we are buying their cars in the first place
).And their ability to design a component and then put it into a place that is almost impossible to get to is legendary.
For instance starter motors.
On my 1976 Camaro I remember changing a starter in 20 minutes. Slide under the car, remove the cables to the starter, loosen three or four bolts, slap the new starter in, tighten it up. Replace the cables. Done!
On my E60 8 cylinder?
- Remove oxygen sensors
- Remove complete exhaust system (from the exhaust manifolds to the chrome exhaust tips at the rear bumper, which from the factory is welded in one piece)
- Support engine
- Lower front subframe
- Remove steering knuckle
- Remove drivers side exhaust manifold (from bottom only)
- Remove heat shield
- Remove and replace starter
Only a sleep-deprived mind comes up with a design like that!
you forgot that an OEM started is $550 lol not $80-120 for your camero
02-21-2022, 10:52 PM
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Very good explanation of the functionality of IBS.
My other cars (current and past) don't have IBS, yet those batteries seem to last at least 6 to 7 years. IBS is supposed to improve/increase the life of battery; yet, battery/charging system seems to one of the most problematic on this car.
My other cars (current and past) don't have IBS, yet those batteries seem to last at least 6 to 7 years. IBS is supposed to improve/increase the life of battery; yet, battery/charging system seems to one of the most problematic on this car.
Those older car batteries were not designed to last 3-5 years. The newer ones are.
03-07-2022, 09:18 AM
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I recently replaced my IBS sensor, and also replaced my battery and alternator last summer. When replacing the IBS, I took the battery out to give it a full charge on an appropriate battery charger, so it was fully charged at that point. This morning, after not driving the car for a couple days, the car had a 'high battery drain' message at startup (it did start).
I haven't yet determined if it is not going to sleep (by looking at the LED on the auto shifter next to 'P')
However, this car has had pretty long term issues with battery discharge, as well as having the trunk flooded a few years ago and needing some new control modules (wagon, sunroof drained into trunk and flooded some modules). Last summer, the alternator's voltage regulator died and was overcharging the car. I replaced the alternator and battery, but was still having weird issues with odd warning lights that were supposedly related to the bad IBS. Upon replacing the OBS, all was well again (no more weird error messages).
My car has comfort access, but it is not turned on, or not working (can't recall if I removed the module or the fuse or turned it off in the computer), but keyless entry (unlocks when you touch the handle) is NOT working, nor will it start unless you insert the key fob in the column.
But now, after sitting two days (Wyoming winter), I get this 'high battery drain' message.
Anyone have any ideas where to start troubleshooting.?
I haven't yet determined if it is not going to sleep (by looking at the LED on the auto shifter next to 'P')
However, this car has had pretty long term issues with battery discharge, as well as having the trunk flooded a few years ago and needing some new control modules (wagon, sunroof drained into trunk and flooded some modules). Last summer, the alternator's voltage regulator died and was overcharging the car. I replaced the alternator and battery, but was still having weird issues with odd warning lights that were supposedly related to the bad IBS. Upon replacing the OBS, all was well again (no more weird error messages).
My car has comfort access, but it is not turned on, or not working (can't recall if I removed the module or the fuse or turned it off in the computer), but keyless entry (unlocks when you touch the handle) is NOT working, nor will it start unless you insert the key fob in the column.
But now, after sitting two days (Wyoming winter), I get this 'high battery drain' message.
Anyone have any ideas where to start troubleshooting.?