Chilango1986

So recently my 07 530i gave me the Transmission Malfunction error. So I have seen that lots have done the fluid change, with pan and sleeve replacement. So I have gone through these steps and followed the steps that KyleB showed. Once I completed this I show that I still have the transmission Malfunction code still on, is there anything with a INPA Scanner tool that can clear it or let the computer know there is new fluid and everything on the transmission. I have looked for this but the only thing I have found is using the tool to check temp. Some advice would be great, since this is my DD

E60Japanese

Hi
Well I am commenting after you wrote that you followed Kyl3e's post.

But what did you actually do?
just fluid and a new filter or new solenoids?

pretty important

also what is your transmission fault codes?

Chilango1986

So I did no get any CEL, and didn't show any codes for issues with the actual transmission. I meant to say the only thing that is happening after draining the fluid and replacing with new fluid, pan and sleeve is the car is remaining in the "safety mode"or the transmission malfunction mode so still not drive-able. My question is now that I have done the recent repair how can I get the vehicle to get out of the safety mode, is this something I do with the Scan tool or something else?

And I haven't replaced solenoids since they are out of my price range at the moment so those will be replaced in time.

KyleB

you won't necessarily get a CEL for the faults you're describing. If your gearbox is in 'failsafe' mode, EGS definitely has fault codes stored in it. It will be a lot easier to help you if you can somehow retrieve them and post what they are. They will be four characters long, and look something like this:

4F85
4F81

etc, etc.

Maybe theres someone in your area with access to INPA that can retrieve them for you?

Chilango1986

So I have ordered an INPA scanner from eBay that should be here Friday. I haven't been able to find anyone locally that had one or had experience with one so I'm not entirely sure how to use the tool. So when you say they are store I would need to identify the codes that are stored. Would the tool allow me to clear the codes just enough so I could take it out of that mode since it has done it before and all I would need to do was shut it off and then it would clear. The only reason why I am looking for this cheap fix is I spent what I had on thinking the fluid change and all the other stuff would fix it.

seanjordan20

Ill chime in. What did you actually buy from eBay. The cable or cable and software. I doubt the right software will come with the cable being that it is an expensive piece of software. If the only thing you get is the cable then you have to find the INPA software to talk to the car modules.

Just to give you a heads up nothing is a cheap fix on BMWs. Yes, you do save a lot doing your own work but you will still spend for the parts and correct tools to complete the work. Not all cheap parts are good to use for these cars.

Being that these cars are complicated (meaning computers control everything) it is hard to say why your car is in failsafe mode and if clearing the codes will take it out of failsafe mode. Have you tried disconnecting your negative terminal for 15 mins to see if it will take it out of limp mode? Being that your car is staying in limp mode you could have something more serious that requires a lot more than just a fluid change and sleeve ( Hope you are not talking about the mech plug adapter sleeve because there was no need for that unless it was leaking). The reason I would replace that if I was dropping the Valve Body and doing the actual full repair unless you were leaking fluid and it was low. INPA is your friend with these cars and you should not buy or do anything until you get the messages from the modules. Not all messages will light up the MIL but these cars log everything and that is what you need first to start your troubleshooting or you will find yourself buying parts and do things just for practice.

A lot of us on this site have done the dreaded trans fix. Not all of us went about it the same way but had the same results. A very few did a fluid change and reset values and was good to go. I can only recall one though. I would say if you can not get the limp mode to go away then you are in for a busy weekend. If you get it out of failsafe mode then I would ease up on the pedal until you can get the money saved to actually fix the issue which will be the solenoids, seal adapter and sealing sleeve kit (4 sleeves).

I hope this helped a little and steers you in the right direction.

Chilango1986

Granted the cable was inexpensive but then again a large amount of drivers have recommended the scanners and software is online and available. So I didn't see the issue with going that route for a scanner.

I understand these are cheap parts for the cars, and I am good with turning a wrench so majority of tasks are fairly doable for me to take on. I'm not entirely sure where the mention of cheap parts being installed on the car came from. As I did OEM parts, and Pentosin ATF fluid that is recommended by the Transmission Repair guide.

The reason why I took the route I did was because I did search upon search on what the common issues were with transmissions that have had the Fail Safe mode. I had the jerk when coming to a stop, harsh shifts, had the car go into Transmission Malfunction mode a couple times but came right out after a stop and start. And from what I saw the "fix" was the path that I took. Despite knowing I didn't fix solenoids since I ran out of money and needed a working car as this is my DD I thought this would get me back up on the road till I could purchase the solenoids, then do another fluid change since that seems to be recommended by lots of users since not all the fluid is able to be drained. I did get the my scanner but unfortunately my laptop was stolen with my recent visit to california the weekend prior so didnt have access to load my software. Still trying to get someone in AZ to help me with a scan but no one is really giving me much help. But appreciate the help that you have given me,and hopefully when I can get the car scanned I can see where to go from there.

E60Japanese

Is there anyone who lives close that can give him a hand to find the fault codes?

I am pretty sure everyone here understands your stress and money concerns.

But as KyleB　and seanjodon20 stated, we are pretty sure we will know the codes even before you find out. But knowing simply helps.

I have learnt from doing 5 transmission repairs now and from the help of people on this forum that are now my friends what to do.

Also the codes show what is happening but will not always show the cause of the faults.

My transmission was worse than yours.
I bought the car already broken and he had driven the car is safety mode for a year because he had no money to repair it.

But after several attempts of repairing it, other members were right.
I needed new solenoids and had the valve body reconditioned.

And it fixed it perfect straight away.(cost about $1,000)

All 5 transmissions I have now repaired all needed the same repair except for 1 transmission that I changed the solenoids only but didn’t service the valve body.
The difference was that just changing the solenoids made the shift change a little harder till it settled down after about 160 klm

We will all do what we can to help and understand your frustrations and money concerns.

We are here to help you.

Chilango1986

E60Japanese I truly appreciate all your help and the help this community has given me. So to give an update on currently what's going on with the car. So it's been about a week since it's been driven, ! But been turned on daily to make sure the battery doesn't die. So finally got a laptop to install INPA , went to connect and the scanner shows it's lit and connected to laptop but doesn't show in INPA. So did some research and saw my car gave me a low battery message. Assuming since it hasn't been driven so just took it to get charged since the battery was at 59% I had checked the battery the day the car went into safe mode since I also read it could be due to a bad battery or something like that. But the battery was good and at 100% when I had checked so wasn't the battery issue. So I'm hoping I can get the battery charged in time to run INPA. But honestly if there is anyone that can help me with this in AZ east valley area I would greatly appreciate it .

Again thanks for al the help I have gotten !

Chilango1986

So just wanted to post a reply to my findings. I finally got my INPA to work properly and got my codes. The code that came up for transmission was 4581. That was the only one. I since then cleared my codes, and my car no longer is jerks when coming to a stop, no more harsh shifts. So what should be the next step?